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Your Humble Administrator
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What kind of sadistic, demented Toyota engineer designed this thing? Many thanks to GreenGraffix for this outstanding how-to! I'm making it a sticky!
 

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I finally got the pictures to load, thank you so much for the very clear step by step instructions on how to replace this part. What an intense job. I spent 4 hours on this yesterday before finding this forum, and today finished the job under an hour. Thank you!
 

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I think it took me 8 hours in all to figure this out on my own then another hour or 2 to write this up and change pic sizes. I'm glad it can help others out!
We really appreciate your efforts! :thumbs_up:
 

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Combined the captions with the pix:

Step 1: Open the fuse box cover. Remove the ECU cable from the “metal plate” on the left of the fuse box. Makes things a bit easier. Remove the two bolts (10mm) shown by arrows in picture. You will have lift the ECU plate from the front bolt.


Step 2: Open the bolt (red arrow) and unclip the three(yellow arrows) wire connectors. You will then need to pull the cable up by unclipping the two(orange arrows) plastic clips and over the bolt and out of the housing. The ping outline is approximately what the cable is attached to.


Step 3: You will need to open the plastic clips from around(outside) the fuse box to separate the lower and upper bodies. There are multiple clips and will need to make sure you open all the clips and separate the two halves. You may also want to cut the zip ties with the two large cables coming(top and bottom) into the fuse box.


Step 4: Remove the “C” block(ping by unclipping the plastic clips and puling it up. There are three connectors on the bottom, disconnect those as well.


Step 5: This is the part that is not well documented anywhere. You need to remove the remaining fuse block. The red line is a “wall” that is attached to the fuse box. The fuse box is what is outlined in pink. There are several clips (not easy to see in the picture) that you will need to unclip and then push down on the box. Note, it’s not the clips with the red X.


Step 6: With all the wires it will now a bit difficult to maneuver but you will need to pull the top fuse box housing to the side and pull out the “main” fuse block. There is a 8mm bolt on the top left(yellow arrow) that needs to be opened. Unclip(red arrows) and pull up the small fuse block. You should now have the required access to open the bolts for the fuse link fuses and replace them.

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Good work! The thread title, write-up and photos should replace the existing sticky in the 4.3 Mechanical section, or guess it could just be attached to it?
As suggested I combined the RolandD and GreenGraffix threads into this one and made it the new sticky on the 120A fuse link replacement. Note that the step numbers don't necessarily correlate between the two authors. Also deleted some non-pertinent posts.
 

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2011 Rav4 Disassembly of Fuse Box to Replace 120 Amp Fuse Guide

This shows and tells you how to dismantle a 2011 Rav4 fuse box to replace the 120A fuse. It took me two days to figure it out. This is called "2011 Rav4 Disassembly of Fuse Box to Replace 120 Amp Fuse Guide".

I wish I would have had this when I started! This information exists nowhere on the internet. I know, because I looked. So I documented it for you guys.

I made it free here, but you can also throw some money my way if you want by clicking on the Paypal link in the .pdf, and thanks, if you do. :)
 

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Your Humble Administrator
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This shows and tells you how to dismantle a 2011 Rav4 fuse box to replace the 120A fuse. It took me two days to figure it out. This is called "2011 Rav4 Disassembly of Fuse Box to Replace 120 Amp Fuse Guide".

Thank you so much for this, well done! It should be noted that your procedure will work for any RAV4 from 2006-2012, and that V6 RAV4's are equipped with a 140A fuse.
 

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OMG... I had to do this on the road in Lander, Wyoming in a parking lot. NAPA had the fuse in stock, but I had no idea of what I was getting into. I used 3 small screwdrivers to hold the clips out while trying to separate the fuse box cover. I ended up breaking one of the retaining clips (not a big deal). Undoing the big wires and connectors, I thought I would never get it all lined back up and figured the vehicle would never run again. The NAPA fuse terminals were open ended (like slotted) and the OEM fuse was an enclosed hole on the end of the fuse prongs so the nuts had to be completely unbolted and removed. Think it took me about 3 hours in a hot parking lot. I was fortunate to not drop any bolts or nuts, but it could have easily happened and they won't fall through to the ground. Trying to get something out of the splash shield is another nightmare.

I wish I had this specific thread when I did the work. I was able to research some other Toyota vehicles to get the general idea of what it took. Thanks for pinning this thread. The information is invaluable.

I think what happened in my case was the Alternator shorted out internally and overheated. The bearings had locked up, presumably due to burned or dried out grease. I had to replace the alternator first and when it wouldn't charge, I found the fuse was blown. All this happened with under 80,000 miles on the engine.
 

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To do this on the road in three hours - that's pretty damn good!
I think it was about 1-1/2 hours to change the alternator in the same parking lot (before I discovered the blown fuse). I had a narrow (thin top) 3/8 inch ratchet and a small piece of pipe that I used to release the tensioner. It is very tight working in these Toyota's. Now I have both CV axles, the struts, and likely an evap canister to change. The passenger side shaft appears to be very difficult from what I read.
 
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