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I was surfing the forum and I notice a lot of members talking about morning starting problems. I asked a Toyota Repair man [who once was my student, Sammy]. He told me that the best way to start your engine in the morning is to turn the key. DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDLE. It won't pump anyway, but if it comes to life and you are stepping on the gas pedal, the pedal position sensor will shoot a lot of gas. Let the engine sensors do their job. Let the ECU pump gas with the amount it needs. Also, don't step on the gas pedal until the red oil light goes out. Once the light goes out, then you can gradually accelerate your engine until you bring it up to temp. Your piston rings and your 3SFE head parts will love you for it.
 

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That will work fine. The question is to stop revving up your engine, with the head dry. As you sleep, the engine oil also sleeps. It falls to the oil pan. Leaving the upper part of your engine dry. In the morning, this is a crucial time. This has a long term effect. If your engine will last for 10 years, doing this, it will last about 13 years.
 
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The sad thing here, for me at least is that lately when I start it in the mornings, it revs on its own and either the valves or the water pump have been rattling away. It sounds like valve noise, but I have heard enough people say that a waterpump can make similar sounds. Either way it will probably be expensive :cry:
 

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blt2go said:
The sad thing here, for me at least is that lately when I start it in the mornings, it revs on its own and either the valves or the water pump have been rattling away. It sounds like valve noise, but I have heard enough people say that a waterpump can make similar sounds. Either way it will probably be expensive :cry:
What is the mileage on your RAV? and was the timing belt changed, usually if the timing belt was changed that is a good time to replace the water pump..... in your case if your water pump is going bad and your timing belt hasn't been changed then it's a good time to get both done at the same time since the labor will most be in the timing belt job...
 
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another thing i have heard that helps the engine like you said, dont rev or push the gas, is when u are turning your car off, especially for the night, rev up to around 2.5 - 3K rpm, and turn off in the middle of the rev. this circulates fresh oil rapidly one more time as you turn ur engine off, thus stranding more oil in the head to conpensate for the gradual overnight drip down. just a thought :)


and toyota and honda both rev up on thier own, to around 1.5 - 2. it holds for around 1 - 1.5 sec, then drops, but still idles high. this is the ecu making up for the cold engine, and testing all of the sensors. the way the vehicle ecu works is that it takes readings, from the sensors, ex. air flow, exhaust temp, and then will pump correct fuel, check the location of cyclinder 1, check the coolant temp. you should hit normal idle 800rpm after a couple of minutes, so dont worry this is normal. sometimes even random higher than 800 idle is normal, all depends on what accessories you have running (ac, coolant fans during traffic or stop and go)
 
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What is the mileage on your RAV? and was the timing belt changed, usually if the timing belt was changed that is a good time to replace the water pump..... in your case if your water pump is going bad and your timing belt hasn't been changed then it's a good time to get both done at the same time since the labor will most be in the timing belt job...
I am just hitting 98K miles and had purchased it used at 85, so I have no idea of when the timing belt and water pump had been done (if at all). I have been saving my pennies to get it done and I have started to look into getting my valve stem seals fixed at the same time. I am getting tired of adding oil.
 
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well crap i watched mine today, and sure enough it didnt rev on its own. i swear i have seen it do it before, hrmm maybe i havent. o well
 

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Yeah, I seen something similar to this on the amsoil website. It really seems like it would be a good investment once I get a new engine :D
 

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Who do you think you are anyway? The wise goat on top of PR's mountain? :lol: :lol: You always say it like some wise camel would say.....

But yeah you're right. So if it cost $200 beans now, its better then spending $1000 beans or more later. God you're funny :wink:
later
 
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The only problem with all these rubbish gadgets - is the top of your engine DOESNT run dry every day.

There are little pits in the path that hold oil. The oil stays stuck to a bit of metal for weeks and to be dry every start you would have to dismantle your engine and wipe every part bone dry.

My other car doesn't get used very often and I can categoricaly say it takes 2 weeks for all the oil to drain in the sump.

However, not ragging the engine until it's warm is a GOOD idea. Starting with your foot on the accelerator is a carb issue - Most all Injection don't need it except for some very early Ford PFI that were a pig to start

Reving the engine before you switch off is BAD (An old fashioned sports car idea - often to get oil pumped into the turbo) - it confuses the ECU ... Infact some scoobies won't start if you do that without an ECU re-set.

The Idle up on starting that some of you report generally only happens on a cold engine - but also doesn't seem to perform correctly if your battery is low or on the way out.

This also explains why a Toyota runs so poorly when started from cold but warm from being in the sun - The elctronics assume cold for a period of time but the engine is warm from the sun and the running rich causes poor tickover
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ag0w said:
The only problem with all these rubbish gadgets - is the top of your engine DOESNT run dry every day.

There are little pits in the path that hold oil. The oil stays stuck to a bit of metal for weeks and to be dry every start you would have to dismantle your engine and wipe every part bone dry.

My other car doesn't get used very often and I can categoricaly say it takes 2 weeks for all the oil to drain in the sump.

However, not ragging the engine until it's warm is a GOOD idea. Starting with your foot on the accelerator is a carb issue - Most all Injection don't need it except for some very early Ford PFI that were a pig to start

Reving the engine before you switch off is BAD (An old fashioned sports car idea - often to get oil pumped into the turbo) - it confuses the ECU ... Infact some scoobies won't start if you do that without an ECU re-set.

The Idle up on starting that some of you report generally only happens on a cold engine - but also doesn't seem to perform correctly if your battery is low or on the way out.

This also explains why a Toyota runs so poorly when started from cold but warm from being in the sun - The elctronics assume cold for a period of time but the engine is warm from the sun and the running rich causes poor tickover
Interesting your observation governor. But recently I've was listening to a clatter in the camshaft and rocker area at start up. eventhough when I check the oil dip stick, it was up to OEM level. That is why at when I change my oil [every 3,000 miles] I use 4 quarts of Castrol, and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabalizer. End of clatter! I guess the clattering was from dry parts. Since the oil bonds to parts, it has helped quieting the engine in the AM startups.
 
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mensajero said:
Interesting your observation governor. But recently I've was listening to a clatter in the camshaft and rocker area at start up. eventhough when I check the oil dip stick, it was up to OEM level. That is why at when I change my oil [every 3,000 miles] I use 4 quarts of Castrol, and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabalizer. End of clatter! I guess the clattering was from dry parts. Since the oil bonds to parts, it has helped quieting the engine in the AM startups.
But - all your saying there is you were using rubbish oil before and since you've used good oil you are saying the same as what I said
 
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