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Discussion Starter #21
I can't quite pictures this yet, I think I understand it, did you remove the broken part did you take pictures? Did you consider 3 printing the broken part?
I didn't take pictures. I was up against the clock with the storm moving in so I powered through it. Can't get the part out to print it. It's very much in there.

Step 1, do you have the factory service/repair manual? I found it floating around on this site.
 

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I have the same problem I know nothing fell down the vents I found the main gear popped off Im thinking mine is an acuator???
 

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Discussion Starter #23
By "main gear" do.you mean the gear with the slots that the actuating gears follow? Or do you mean the gear physically attached to the motor?
 

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Update my problem was the glue holding weather stripping on box melted and that caused door to stick closed and gear popped off that controls flow to dash and feet.
The dealer said I needed to replace whole box at a cost of $3000.00! Just a heads up dealers do not always offer the "best fix" they would rather replace than repair a friend who is a toyota mechanic who is old school found this simple fix just clean the glue off��...
He seen this happen before its commen problem.
If you look up under dash on passenger side you can see the box right behind the stereo and the door on box if black glue is seen smeared you will face this same problem clean all glue with alcohol before door glues shut.
 

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My apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I have a similar problem with my manual damper mode controls. The main white gear that actuates the dampers is broken, and ends up cock-eyed and won't turn. It has 3 claws that hold it in place and one has broken off. For the life of me, I can't find a part number for the gear. Originally there may have been some kind of retainer (screw, bolt, etc) that also held it in place...at this point i can't remember. I'll attach pictures. If anyone can help point me to a part number and source, I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
My apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I have a similar problem with my manual damper mode controls. The main white gear that actuates the dampers is broken, and ends up cock-eyed and won't turn. It has 3 claws that hold it in place and one has broken off. For the life of me, I can't find a part number for the gear. Originally there may have been some kind of retainer (screw, bolt, etc) that also held it in place...at this point i can't remember. I'll attach pictures. If anyone can help point me to a part number and source, I would greatly appreciate it.
There isn't a replacement part as far as I know. It's all one solid unit in the dealer computer.
 

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There isn't a replacement part as far as I know. It's all one solid unit in the dealer computer.

Not what I was hoping to hear :) Can you point me at a part number for the assembly?

Alternatively, any suggestions on repairing this?

I can realign the gears (the pulley from the knob, and the gear pictured), and it will stay for a day or two, but eventually fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Not what I was hoping to hear :) Can you point me at a part number for the assembly?

Alternatively, any suggestions on repairing this?

I can realign the gears (the pulley from the knob, and the gear pictured), and it will stay for a day or two, but eventually fails.
It's been a while and if I did have it at one point I would have linked it here. All I can remember is that it was called the "air box assembly". Was $2700 for the part alone. Includes your heater core and evap core.

Not sure how to repair it.
 

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It's been a while and if I did have it at one point I would have linked it here. All I can remember is that it was called the "air box assembly". Was $2700 for the part alone. Includes your heater core and evap core.

Not sure how to repair it.

$2700!! From bad to worse. Time to get creative with some duct-tape. Thanks for the info!
 

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You may be able to find one in a junkyard for a lot less.
 

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You may be able to find one in a junkyard for a lot less.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've actually been looking into that, but I've been striking out at the couple I've checked. I see Ravs all over the Milwaukee area, not sure why I can't find one at a junkyard though.
 

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I can tell you exactly what happened same exact problem I have with my gear one clip snapped off...
I have a master Toyota mechanic friend and the problem is the glue they used on the heater box weather stripping it melts and the heater box door that diverts heat to the floor sticks and the gear breaks and your heat to the floor no longer works....
I know if you go up under dash on passenger side you can see the door try to lift it..
It will be glued shut which is why the gear broke the tab off trying to open the door..
He searched the Toyota parts mircrophish spelling???? Says gear is available ordered it but it was the wrong part!!!! With $140.00 price tag!!!!
Toyota needs to get this part I now have my heat set on defrost for the cold months..
I used baby powder on the glue to keep it from sticking which worked mine was very hard to unglue ****ty design!!!!
 

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Just an update on my Rav, my mechanic was able repair mine, without any parts needed nothing broken , said something sticky was what caused it to stick and he cleaned it up and put it back together(gears were off and such) , been a couple weeks, I feel like its kind of sticky... time will tell iirc around 5 hours labor for my fix.
 

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I tried looking on the passenger side to see if the vent door as glued shut. I can't see much looking up into the dash. Does part of the dash have to be removed to see the vent door that control downward air flow?
 

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I tried looking on the passenger side to see if the vent door as glued shut. I can't see much looking up into the dash. Does part of the dash have to be removed to see the vent door that control downward air flow?
I had the same concern as you. I could not see where the gluey vent doors were while looking up the underside of the driver/pass dash.

There is a small length of duct that you have to remove to see the vent doors. The black glue is obvious once you remove this duct.
 

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I've been following this thread to repair my 2007 RAV4 Limited with dual zone auto climate control.

Symptoms - blinking defrost light. Fan respond to panel controls. Vents doors do not respond to panel controls. No heat is delivered, ostensibly because of vent doors.

Checked the HVAC fault codes (21/24/97).

Sourced a used AC Amplifier - no change to symptoms or faults.

Cleaned the black glue out of the accessible vent doors - no change to symptoms or faults.

Removed all actuator servos - all motors respond to battery and contacts are clean.

Gears are not broken and vent doors respond cleanly to my actuation.

Any advice or next steps?

Thanks!
 

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Have you deciphered the codes you got? Tried resetting them?
 

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Have you deciphered the codes you got? Tried resetting them?
I deciphered the codes prior to my repair and after I replaced the AC Amplifier.

21/24 are solar sensors that I decided to ignore based on this discussion:


97 is BUS IC Communication malfunction. After following the steps below I replaced the AC Amplifier with one from a wreck.


There were no change in the codes after I replaced the AC Amp. I concluded the AC Amp is probably ok and proceeded to cleaning the vent door glue and checking the integrity of the servo motors (albeit the Toyota manuals indicate that limited bench testing is available for the servo-motor pulse controls).


Thanks!
 

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Did you replace the close-loop control wire that communicate with the A/C amplifier and servos?
I did not replace nor did I check the AC Amplifier harness. I saw that you had the same faults as me in this thread:


Was this the fix for your issue?
 
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