[charlesj]

Yes, it was really a ridiculous statement. The left turn signal would turn on, but it wouldn’t shut off when I straightened the car again. When the service rep called me back to say the left turn signal was working fine, the next question out of his mouth was did I ever drive a Toyota before. That was going to be his excuse. “Toyota turn signals are different.” I didn’t volunteer my Toyota history information without being asked. I’ve driven many different rental vehicle over my lifetime, and I’ve never had a car with a turn signal that didn’t work the same as all of the others. To me, the brand of car should make no difference.

Before I had bought the car, I drove it with the salesman and he told me what path to take. Since it was all right turns, I didn’t know about the left turn signal since I hadn’t made any left turns. It wouldn’t shut off after making a left turn every time I made a sharp 90 degree left turn. It happened within a few minutes after driving off the lot after the sale was final. I’d turn the signal on, but it wouldn’t shut off. When I drove with the supervisor of the service department, I found out later that he told everyone I was making “sweeping turns.“ Yeah. I was “the bad guy.“ I had made a left turn at a stoplight next to the double yellow line another another street with a double yellow line. Both streets had two lanes. I drove from the left lane into another left lane. A perfect right angle turn. Not sure how I could have made a “sweeping turn” with traffic all around me And in the lanes beside me. When their employees made left turns while driving the car on side streets (I wasn’t in the car), the signal did shut off. As it did for me On side streets. Only after the sales manager sat with me in my car while it was standing still and turned the steering wheel left and saw it didn’t shut off when he returned the steering wheel to the forward position did he agree to call the Toyota engineers regarding it. But this was only after three days of trying to tell them it wasn’t working, even getting yelled at on the phone like I was a dog by the service manager. After I had calmly reminded him that I had just spent a lot of money on one of their vehicles and I couldn’t believe he was being so condescending to me (really…I was SO shocked at his attitude), I had noticed a change in his demeanor. Women‘s statements are not always taken at face value at car dealerships because “we don’t know anything.“

None of my past and present Toyotas had this problem nor did yours, it seems. Once in a while if the turn doesn't require much wheel turn, it doesn't click off. Never measure how much I had to turn the wheel so it will auto stop when the wheel is straightened. It looks like what you have is a screwed-up indexing in the steering column.
Our RAV4 doesn't have what you described.

 

[Neiman]

They replaced the whole steering column. They finally agreed it was defective.

 

[Neiman]

I never had that problem on my previous 2 Toyotas before either.

 

[FKHeath]

he steering wheel to the forward position did he agree to call the Toyota engineers regarding it. But this was only after three days of trying to tell them it wasn’t working, even getting yelled at on the phone like I was a dog by the service manager. After I had calmly reminded him that I had just spent a lot of money on one of their vehicles and I couldn’t believe he was being so condescending to me (really…I was SO shocked at his attitude), I had noticed a change in his demeanor. Women‘s statements are not always taken at face value at car dealerships because “we don’t know anything.“

Ouch! That service manager needs some training in customer relations.

Question: Did the left turn signal turn off is you steered right beyond straight ahead?

Before they replaced the steering column, they should have replace the turn signal lever. Very easy to do, about five minutes, and would have cost a whole lot less than the steering column.

 

[Neiman]

Ouch! That service manager needs some training in customer relations.

Question: Did the left turn signal turn off is you steered right beyond straight ahead?

Before they replaced the steering column, they should have replace the turn signal lever. Very easy to do, about five minutes, and would have cost a whole lot less than the steering column.

He spoke to the Toyota engineers and had to order a part that I had to wait for for a few days. I didn’t question anything he said since he was finally “on my side.”

I find in customer relations, frequently one side or the other is treated as the enemy.

 

[Neiman]

He spoke to the Toyota engineers and had to order a part that I had to wait for for a few days. I didn’t question anything he said since he was finally “on my side.”

I find in customer relations, frequently one side or the other is treated as the enemy.

I could turn the left turn signal on, but when I straightened the wheel back to its home position, it kept blinking. But the right signal worked just fine.

 

[Neiman]

He spoke to the Toyota engineers and had to order a part that I had to wait for for a few days. I didn’t question anything he said since he was finally “on my side.”

I find in customer relations, frequently one side or the other is treated as the enemy.

I was thrilled with this dealer’s sales department and I have recommended them. Not so much the service department.

 

[FKHeath]

I could turn the left turn signal on, but when I straightened the wheel back to its home position, it kept blinking. But the right signal worked just fine.

But what if you turned it to the right beyond straight ahead? That was my question.

 

[Neiman]

But what if you turned it to the right beyond straight ahead? That was my question.

You mean after it was in the home position after previously turning left and then I turned right? Nothing I did short of manually turning it off would shut it off.

 

[iowagold]

i would love to see the cam and finger setup to see what was up.
yea a new whole unit would fix it.
and toyota could have the whole thing to take a look at the engineering section to see what went wrong.
it could to have been as easy at the finger was warped or not formed right.
to just broken or bad design on the finger.
i would say the latter might be true.

or the cam could have the same issue as bad formed material.

back in the good old days the parts were metal. (1950's 1960's)
modern times they are plastics or mixed composite materials.
injection molded parts can be a real challenge unless they check every part with an indexer or laser scan.
or check for cracks or voids etc.

the joy of a new car or truck is gone when you have to deal with a bad part.
been there done that!
lol
Merry Christmas!

 

[Neiman]

i would love to see the cam and finger setup to see what was up.
yea a new whole unit would fix it.
and toyota could have the whole thing to take a look at the engineering section to see what went wrong.
it could to have been as easy at the finger was warped or not formed right.
to just broken or bad design on the finger.
i would say the latter might be true.

or the cam could have the same issue as bad formed material.

back in the good old days the parts were metal. (1950's 1960's)
modern times they are plastics or mixed composite materials.
injection molded parts can be a real challenge unless they check every part with an indexer or laser scan.
or check for cracks or voids etc.

the joy of a new car or truck is gone when you have to deal with a bad part.
been there done that!
lol
Merry Christmas!

What you say makes sense…that perhaps Toyota engineers wanted to inspect the bad part. From the disbelief I encountered from the service department, I surmised my car’s situation was not one they likely had seen before. Bravo to the Toyota mechanics for wanting to inspect the bad part, if that is in fact what they did.

 

[FKHeath]

i would love to see the cam and finger setup to see what was up.

Your wish is my command:

You can see the tab that triggers the reset at the bottom of the pictures. It takes all of five minutes to take off the switch and see if if works right. If the switch works right, then use a flashlight to see into the steering column to see if the cam is working right. Ten minutes max for the whole test.

 

[iowagold]

Your wish is my command:

View attachment 202054

View attachment 202053


You can see the tab that triggers the reset at the bottom of the pictures. It takes all of five minutes to take off the switch and see if if works right. If the switch works right, then use a flashlight to see into the steering column to see if the cam is working right. Ten minutes max for the whole test.

cool on the pix!
any pix of the ring in the steering column?
is it plastic on the ring or metal?

 

[iowagold]

yea working with GM on issues like this and electrical issues as a 3rd party engineering group.
back in the day (1980's to 2000) they would ship us the whole car or a structure to take a look.

a fresh set of eyes on the project is a good thing.

some issues were rare and some were in the 100k range on the affected cars and trucks.

 

[Stv]

yeah if you don't want 1970's style maintenance (some work needed by owner) for your own vehicle, sure. -------------------------- I consider my 2022 rav4 Hybrid -perfect- but with an asterisk Perfect* *but you need to take care of the cablegate issue yourself if you drive in salty water (snow belt states) it's a super boneheaded design decision by engineers or management and I'm sure someone at Toyota must have chimed in on the new transaxle layout... BUT BUT what about corrosion in snow states/Canada and was shot down by beancounters

What's a cablegate?

 

[500500]

What's a cablegate?

 

[Treeman]

What's a cablegate?

I live in Michigan and have to deal with roadway salt, etc! In my case, I will not deal with the corrosion issue but will buy a new Forester unless that corrosion issue is corrected by the Spring of 2024. If younger, I might, but not at age 82. "Cablegate" is the electrical cable corrosion issue some are dealing with.

 

[500500]

cablegate is the rav4 mgr cable corrosion problem -BEFORE- Toyota started to cover these cables with additional warranty
and before the cable clamshell design change. the whole mgr cable dilemma can be lumped under 'rav4 cablegate'

specifically the closed connector shell allowed dirt to remain and pack in, and provide
physical external pressure (the packed dirt) and physical continual wet electrolyte
to allow corrosion to invade under the braid clamp and into the 3-phase wiring.

the open clamshell will still allow some corrosion and dirt, but without the added continual wetness
and continual physical pressure from packed dirt. it cannot pack in, it will build up to some
point and just fall out...

this version should have no electrical problems but may allow braid to corrode,
hence those if us with the new design and open clamshell...we still want to avoid all
corrosion on this braid if we can.


there is no evidence thus far the open clamshell design ever had any hybrid system fault....
but there is evidence of some surface corrosion on the open clamshell design.

---

if you have old fully closed design, risky. needs anti-corrosion work on it in many peeps opinions
but is now covered by additional warranty if this cable fails at MGR ...so you don't need to do anything
and if/when it faults, toyota covers it, if it falls under the additional warranty

if you have the new open design, no where near as risky. but some of us
want to go above and beyond toyota design and add anti-corrosion measures

likely to never fault if you leave it alone, but also worth a little bit of shade-tree
mechanic work to add anti-corrosion measures

 

[Treeman]

cablegate is the rav4 mgr cable corrosion problem -BEFORE- Toyota started to cover these cables with additional warranty
and before the cable clamshell design change. the whole mgr cable dilemma can be lumped under 'rav4 cablegate'

specifically the closed connector shell allowed dirt to remain and pack in, and provide
physical external pressure (the packed dirt) and physical continual wet electrolyte
to allow corrosion to invade under the braid clamp and into the 3-phase wiring.

the open clamshell will still allow some corrosion and dirt, but without the added continual wetness
and continual physical pressure from packed dirt. it cannot pack in, it will build up to some
point and just fall out...

this version should have no electrical problems but may allow braid to corrode,
hence those if us with the new design and open clamshell...we still want to avoid all
corrosion on this braid if we can.


there is no evidence thus far the open clamshell design ever had any hybrid system fault....
but there is evidence of some surface corrosion on the open clamshell design.

---

if you have old fully closed design, risky. needs anti-corrosion work on it in many peeps opinions
but is now covered by additional warranty if this cable fails at MGR ...so you don't need to do anything
and if/when it faults, toyota covers it, if it falls under the additional warranty

if you have the new open design, no where near as risky. but some of us
want to go above and beyond toyota design and add anti-corrosion measures

likely to never fault if you leave it alone, but also worth a little bit of shade-tree
mechanic work to add anti-corrosion measures

Thanks so much for your excellent opinion on this Cablegate issue; it is much appreciated! I live in a remote area of Michigan. My dirt driveway is 1/4 mile long, plus I have a two-mile drive before reaching any pavement. My Subaru is constantly dirty, particularly underneath. If I buy an RAV4, it would probably be a hybrid. Now, this is a stupid question, but is the Cablegate issue with non-hybrids, too? I appreciate all opinions. At age 82 (almost), this will probably be my last new car, and I want it to last for the duration of my driving. As I've said before, I've owned several Toyota's, and all have been bulletproof and reliable! My 2017 Forester Touring has been the same.

 

[500500]

Thanks so much for your excellent opinion on this Cablegate issue; it is much appreciated! I live in a remote area of Michigan. My dirt driveway is 1/4 mile long, plus I have a two-mile drive before reaching any pavement. My Subaru is constantly dirty, particularly underneath. If I buy an RAV4, it would probably be a hybrid. Now, this is a stupid question, but is the Cablegate issue with non-hybrids, too? I appreciate all opinions. At age 82 (almost), this will probably be my last new car, and I want it to last for the duration of my driving. As I've said before, I've owned several Toyota's, and all have been bulletproof and reliable! My 2017 Forester Touring has been the same.

only hybrids have high voltage cables
only hybrids have a motor generator rear (MGR) inside rear transaxle