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As you can tell, I am not happy that Toyota recommends 0w/20 or 5w/20 for the I-4. I live in a hot climate (Austin) and when I look at the volatility numbers (NOAK), flash point, sheer and film strength of even premium synthetics in those weights, they are defintely not comparable to a similar 5w/30.

It is difficult to believe that a premium 5w/30 sythetic would do anything but offer better protection in the heat that the lighter weights. I can't even fathom running 0w/20 in Phoenix in the summer. I suppose Toyota could yank your warranty.

Any thoughts on this matter?

Gene
 

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ravnlunatic said:
Stick with the 5w30. Don't mind the dealer. It will have have better protection for your Austin climate.
The point I was making (poorly at that) is that most dealers in my area do not use 5W-20 for oil changes and do not use Honda oil (Castrol seems to be the oil of choice in my area among dealers)

They buy their oil in bulk 50 gal drums (same oil as you buy but in a bigger botlle :p ) and go for the oil weight (5W-30) that works in all the cars that go through their service dept.
 

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What I don't understand is why service departments cannot stick to the manufacture recommandations. Same when I bought my turbo VW and I asked the service department about the octane levels of the gas. They told me that I should use 87 even VW tells you to use 91. The funny part is that this story was told to customers around the country.

Now you tell me that Toyota just stuffs oil into the engine that is readily available in their 50 gallon drums?

When you want to have it done right, you have to do it yourself! :p
 
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Some interesting comparisons between Oils....

I recently changed my oil for the first time and since it had been awhile since I'd done any research I did a lot of looking concerning Oil and filters before doing the maintenance. I ended up going with Castrol Syntech, and I chose it over Mobil 1 and Amsoil primarily because of the cost factor and the fact that I'll be changing it every 5k miles at least until the extended warranty is up. At any rate below is a link to an AMSOIL website that had some very good info on different oil properties you may find interesting about some of the popular brands of oil. Milan.

http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1102880/articles/api_comparative_motor_oil_testing.htm
 

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Raffor said:
Now you tell me that Toyota just stuffs oil into the engine that is readily available in their 50 gallon drums?

When you want to have it done right, you have to do it yourself! :p
All Express Lube facilities use bulk oil.

When I had my 02 CRV you paided extra if you wanted Honda oil put in your car.

When all service including oil changes were free for 4 years on Audi's I just brought my seven quarts of Mobil 1 along and they would use it instead of the bulk Castrol 5W-30 they used.

Nothing wrong with Express lube oil if you change it when required.

Some of us are just more particular then the average driver.
 

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gwoodall said:
As you can tell, I am not happy that Toyota recommends 0w/20 or 5w/20 for the I-4. I live in a hot climate (Austin) and when I look at the volatility numbers (NOAK), flash point, sheer and film strength of even premium synthetics in those weights, they are defintely not comparable to a similar 5w/30.

It is difficult to believe that a premium 5w/30 sythetic would do anything but offer better protection in the heat that the lighter weights. I can't even fathom running 0w/20 in Phoenix in the summer. I suppose Toyota could yank your warranty.

Any thoughts on this matter?

Gene
When you think about, it's not really a big deal. Previously, 5W30 or 10W30 oils were required. While the average dino oil would start low-30, it would quickly shear down to high-20. As a matter of fact, that shearing down was considered a desirable feature by oil makers and helped oils pass the fuel conserving test (part of the ILSAC's "starburst" certification).

Now, the new ILSAC GF4/API SM oils are more shear-resistant and start high 20 and end high 20. So, there is not a whole lot of difference for average user. Besides, I understand that the 06 engines take more oil in to keep it a bit cooler to correct for the viscosity difference.

Now, towing or high speed driving in hot climate is a different issue. I would only use quality XW30 for that.
 

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RAV4 V6

Can someone chime in on the V6 oil requirements? Is it also 0W20/5W20?
I'm still waiting for my RAV4 to be delivered and Toyota doesn't have owner's manuals posted on their website.
Another question is: do dealerships stock and use the new 0w20/5w20 oils?
 

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Re: RAV4 V6

friendly_jacek said:
Can someone chime in on the V6 oil requirements? Is it also 0W20/5W20?
I'm still waiting for my RAV4 to be delivered and Toyota doesn't have owner's manuals posted on their website.
Chiming..page 369 of your Owners Manual (when you get it) states

3.5 L V6 (2GR-FE) engine SAE 5W-30
Another question is: do dealerships stock and use the new 0w20/5w20 oils?
Varies by region. The dealers in my area use Castrol 5W-30 for their Express Lube service
 
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I do my own oil changes and have been using Mobil 1 5W-30 Synthetic with no problems at all. I also have not seen any difference in my gas mileage.
 
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gwoodall said:
As you can tell, I am not happy that Toyota recommends 0w/20 or 5w/20 for the I-4. I live in a hot climate (Austin)
I just bought an 06 RAV4. I traded an 02 Focus ZX5. I live in Yuma, Arizona so I understand a different kind of hot than you. The Ford ran great on 5W-20. The Rave will too. The difference will likely be synthentic.
 

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Raffor said:
I wonder if the 0W-20 oil grade for the 4 banger is to get the epa mileage below the V6. :shock:
ding ding, we have a winner.
The only reason car manufacturers are starting to suggest 20 weight oils is due to overall company fuel mileage numbers.

Its all an buisness, epa, government thing. IMO you should run a 5w-30 or 0w-30.
 
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Talking about oil issues here: does anyone else think that the size of the oil filter for the 2.4 liter engine is a joke?
 
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