This is my second round with the infamous light show in my instrument cluster. The last time it was the O2 sensors, and I replaced both (which cured the problem.) This time the VSC/TC/brake/ABS lights are on, and will not go out even after jumping pins 4 and 13, disconnecting the battery (both pos and neg) and even pulling the efi main and etcs fuses for 15 minutes. Nothing is working. Also, I get no blinking lights when jumping 4 and 13. Nadda. Zip. I get the feeling this one is going to be expensive. Thoughts?
I am stumped:VSC/TC/brake/ABS lights won't go out
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That sounds like a strange one.
First let me ask you, are there any aftermarket equipment or accessories installed? Things like alarm systems, remote start, backup cameras, GPS nav systems, trailer hitch wiring, etc.? If not, then sorry to say, but I think it may take a trip to the stealership to fix that one.
First let me ask you, are there any aftermarket equipment or accessories installed? Things like alarm systems, remote start, backup cameras, GPS nav systems, trailer hitch wiring, etc.? If not, then sorry to say, but I think it may take a trip to the stealership to fix that one.
That's a major clue that either you've misidentified the pins (easy to do) or, best case, a fuse is blown. Don't have time to look up the schematics now but I believe one of the pins is 12V. If it's not there a fuse is blown and a code reader wouldn't work either.
I am in the right pins and not a thing is happening. I thought for sure disconnecting the battery for a while would at least reset them so I could get a read of the codes when they came back, but they'e still on. Looks like a dealership run for a diagnostic. Wonder how much $$$ that will set me back?
Absolutely no aftermarket equipment installed. This is weird indeed!
Just because you replaced two oxygen sensors last time means nothing. There are many more sensors that are the same age, and the chances of one or more of them failing are good.
Invest in a code reader. If you have a laptop, I recommend the ALLScanner VCX which will come with Techstream, the OEM Toyota software.
For now, go to your local parts store and have them read the codes and report back.
Invest in a code reader. If you have a laptop, I recommend the ALLScanner VCX which will come with Techstream, the OEM Toyota software.
For now, go to your local parts store and have them read the codes and report back.
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^^^^^ This, without reading the codes you are just taking shots in the dark, wasting time and potentially money.
His issue is that the 4-13 jumper which should activate the Skid Control ECU "light show" doesn't work. That means a scanner such as my Autel probably wouldn't work either. He's left with no way to read or reset the codes.
He hasn't mentioned the MIL/CEL being on so altho reading the main ECU codes at an auto parts store or with a basic code reader might work, it's unlikely that clearing them would help.
My concern is that unless the dealer finds something simple such as a blown fuse (which he says he's checked for) this could get expensive.
He hasn't mentioned the MIL/CEL being on so altho reading the main ECU codes at an auto parts store or with a basic code reader might work, it's unlikely that clearing them would help.
My concern is that unless the dealer finds something simple such as a blown fuse (which he says he's checked for) this could get expensive.
Didn't have the CEL on, so I took it to the dealership (naturally the lights went out on my way there.) They pulled the codes:
C2010 RH REAR SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT, C1223 ABS MALFUNCTION, C1238 FOREIGN OBJECT RH REAR SPEED SENSOR, FOUND CORROSION ON RH REAR SPEED SENSOR AND SPEED SENSOR HARNESS, RH REAR HUB/BEARING ASSY AND SPEED SENSOR HARNESS WIRE.
Total to fix: 1073.61 :frown
I did not have them fix it today.
I see you found Bruce's post on the 2WD rear speed sensor. If you can't DIY I'd suggest trying an independent shop, maybe one specializing in Toyota to get the price down significantly. In the meantime drive it. The lights may come on and go off by themselves many times. Your brakes will revert to pre-ABS mode while they're on.
I've had same occurrence you describe; i.e. comes and goes away. In my case it seems to be related to very wet or almost flooded roads.... or in one case, when I took the vehicle thru a car wash that power washes the under carriage. I suspect that a connector seal is bad on a vehicle speed sensor or wheel sensor. Moisture may be shorting out the connections on an intermittent basis. My vehicle is a 2009 2WD. I haven't pursued the issue because the problem goes away as soon as the weather has been dry for a day or two.
FYI, I finally resolved this issue by replacing the downstream oxygen sensor. The sensor body has a crimp in it and apparently water was entering in thru that seam and shorting it out.
I think when the computer sees any malfunction it throws the codes for VSC/ABS... etc, and disables the cruise control. Since replacing that O2 sensor about 6 months ago, I have not had a single code and I think I might be getting slightly better gas mileage.
I think when the computer sees any malfunction it throws the codes for VSC/ABS... etc, and disables the cruise control. Since replacing that O2 sensor about 6 months ago, I have not had a single code and I think I might be getting slightly better gas mileage.
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