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Discussion Starter #1
My 09 V6 has 107k on it. I'm new to changing any fluids other than oil, really. So, if I have this right there are two transfer cases and how many differentials to do, three? And I plan to do the transmission fluid, coolant change, and I have to change one of my o2 sensors. I ordered that already. But what fluids and supplies do I need for the rest? And should I do the plugs myself or have a shop do them? The 6 looks complicates with the back 3 under part of the intake.
 

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There is one transfer case and one differential that need oil changes (that are not part of the transmission). You will need 1 quart of gear oil to do both (but buy two in case you need a little exrra due to spillage or pump reach issues). I used Mobil 1 75W90 in mine. You will also need a gear oil pump (these are readily available in the marine section of walmart of you have trouble finding one). All the drain and fill caps have a 10mm socket head. A 3/8" drive 10mm Allen socket and 3" extension are pretty much required.

The transmission is nicely covered here: https://www.mystupidprojects.com/au...ransmission-fluid-and-filter/#Tools_and_Parts

The spark plugs are very easy. You just need to remove the top half of the intake manifold ton get to the rear plugs. There are 4 allen head bolts, two 10mm nuts, two 12mm bolts, 4 10mm bolts, two big hose clamps, a few small hoses and a couple of electrical plugs to remove. Whole job takes less than an hour. Have two 3" 3/8" drive extensions and a spark plug socket handy. The two 12mm bolts are on tha back and need to come out by feel. The one on the passenger side is easier to deal with if you leave the brakect on the manifold and remove the lower bolt. Put a rag over the 6 holes in the bottom half of the manifold while you have it apart, you do not wan;t anything to fall down those holes....

Replace your brake fluid, I use DOT4.
 

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There is one transfer case and one differential that need oil changes (that are not part of the transmission). You will need 1 quart of gear oil to do both (but buy two in case you need a little exrra due to spillage or pump reach issues). I used Mobil 1 75W90 in mine. You will also need a gear oil pump (these are readily available in the marine section of walmart of you have trouble finding one). All the drain and fill caps have a 10mm socket head. A 3/8" drive 10mm Allen socket and 3" extension are pretty much required.

The transmission is nicely covered here: https://www.mystupidprojects.com/au...ransmission-fluid-and-filter/#Tools_and_Parts

The spark plugs are very easy. You just need to remove the top half of the intake manifold ton get to the rear plugs. There are 4 allen head bolts, two 10mm nuts, two 12mm bolts, 4 10mm bolts, two big hose clamps, a few small hoses and a couple of electrical plugs to remove. Whole job takes less than an hour. Have two 3" 3/8" drive extensions and a spark plug socket handy. The two 12mm bolts are on tha back and need to come out by feel. The one on the passenger side is easier to deal with if you leave the brakect on the manifold and remove the lower bolt. Put a rag over the 6 holes in the bottom half of the manifold while you have it apart, you do not wan;t anything to fall down those holes....

Replace your brake fluid, I use DOT4.
For some reason, I'm getting the feeling that you've done this before.>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've done the oil. Headlights, air filters, nothing difficult. I did the plugs once about 20 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So front and center differential you don't change? And front transfer case you don't do? And are the spark plugs pre-gapped?
 

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So front and center differential you don't change? And front transfer case you don't do? And are the spark plugs pre-gapped?
Front diff is part of the transaxle and is lubed with transmission fluid.

The plugs I bought, NGKs were indeed pre-gapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Front diff is part of the transaxle and is lubed with transmission fluid.

The plugs I bought, NGKs were indeed pre-gapped.
Okay, so tell me if this is right: rear diff and transfer case and they use the same gear oil. Front diff, gear oil, front diff and transmission use transmission fluid, but what about the front transfer case?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Have any of you done the coolant? How hard is it to get to that little yellow switch for the rest of the coolant to drain?
 

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Okay, so tell me if this is right: rear diff and transfer case and they use the same gear oil. Front diff, gear oil, front diff and transmission use transmission fluid, but what about the front transfer case?
Not quite right.

There is one transfer case
There is one rear differential
There is one transaxle

That's the entire drive train if you exclude the engine.

The transfer case needs 1/2 quart or so of gear oil, like Mobil 175W90

The rear differentail needs 1/2 quart or so of gear oil, like Mobile 1 75W90

The front differential is combined with the transmission to form the transaxle so when you do a transmission fluid and filter change you will also be changing the oil in the front diff since they are the same part. You will need "Toyota WS"-rated transmission fluid, a new filter and a cork pan gasket to do the job correctly. I do not recall how much fluid you will need, I have not done this on my RAV4 yet as the previous owner had done it 2000 miles before I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm thinking next Monday I'll try to do all this if it's not super cold. Except the spark plugs. I have to be able to put back whatever I took off. The stuff underneath looks easy enough. Except that second switch to drain the rest of the coolant. The yellow switch. Is it hard to reach?
 

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Wish I could help, but I have never done a coolant change on a RAV4. AFAIK, there's a block drain and a radiator drain and odds are good they are both easy to reach.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wish I could help, but I have never done a coolant change on a RAV4. AFAIK, there's a block drain and a radiator drain and odds are good they are both easy to reach.
I watched a diy on youtube and it looks easy enough. Except for reaching that little yellow switch for the second drain. Pretty sure they empty out of the same spot, though.
 

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I drained and refilled the coolant last fall. Both coolant drain plugs are really easy to access if the engine undertray is removed first. The yellow switch is actually a threaded plastic drain plug and it's easy to unscrew with your fingers. The metal drain plug on the block, on the other hand, was very tight. IIRC, it takes a 10mm wrench. I can't remember the torque spec.

Removing the undertray was the worst part of the procedure. I destroyed a couple of plastic fasteners and broke the heads off two rusty screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So think I can do this stuff without lifting the Rav? It looks like I might be able to get under it, I'm just not sure how much room I really need. I don't want to buy a jack and stands if I don't need to. The parts and fluids for everything else is already around $250 counting oil, catch basins, etc. I'm thinking I'll do the coolant and transmission first, then the following week I'll do the differential and transfer case, and the spark plugs the week after.
 

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So think I can do this stuff without lifting the Rav? It looks like I might be able to get under it, I'm just not sure how much room I really need. I don't want to buy a jack and stands if I don't need to. The parts and fluids for everything else is already around $250 counting oil, catch basins, etc. I'm thinking I'll do the coolant and transmission first, then the following week I'll do the differential and transfer case, and the spark plugs the week after.
It would be pretty tight to do this without jack stands. If you could park it on top of some scrap 2x8s (laying flat) it would help an awful lot.

You can buy 2, two-ton jack stands for <25 bucks and use the OEM jack to lift the car onto them... That's pretty cheap life insurance even the cheapest are a tool that will last a lifetime.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It would be pretty tight to do this without jack stands. If you could park it on top of some scrap 2x8s (laying flat) it would help an awful lot.

You can buy 2, two-ton jack stands for <25 bucks and use the OEM jack to lift the car onto them... That's pretty cheap life insurance even the cheapest are a tool that will last a lifetime.
I haven't read anything good about those jack stands. Everyone has some horror story on Amazon about how thy broke. I wish it had truck clearance under or even Jeep Cherokee (old Cherokee). Most likely I'll get the jack stands but still try to do it without them first.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got the filter and transmission fluid and will be tackling that Wednesday when it's supposed to be 70 outside. I'll do the o2 sensor, too. Gonna stop by Home Depot and get some 2x8s.
 

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Good luck! If your sensor really is bad (a dirty electrical connection can make them seem bad to be sure to exercise the electric connection a few times and clear the code before you replace it), don't bother tring to remove it with an O2 sensor socket, just clip the wires off and put a deep 6 point socket over it. When I change an O2 sensor, I heat the surrounding exhaust pipe up with a torch then put an ice cube directly on the sensor.. Makes them much easier to remove.
 
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