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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 3sfe engine. I have cleaned and done "everything" according to the book, but the idling is high 1300 from cold. And it does not go down if warm.
I have replaced the timing belt and there is probably where the fault has started.
I did mark with white paint but my helper cleaned everything very thoroughly including my timing marks.
There are two marks for the camshaft. TDC and and index line. Which one is the correct to adjust against?
Any other things that could be out?
Appreciate all help since I am newbie to this.
 

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For aligning the timing belt, the crank needs to be TDC of the compression stroke for cylinder #1. Then, in the cam's sprocket, there's a hole through which you stick a very small flat screwdriver to feel the detent in the head -- this shows that the cam is aligned TDC too. It usually takes at least several tries, after tightening the belt, to get the right alignment of both.

Did the high-idle occur right after doing the belt?

Have the A/C off?
 

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1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
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-- What year is your Rav4?

-- Is the computer throwing any codes? Is the check engine light on (in the instrument cluster)?

-- Did you replace the water pump and/or thermostat? Subsequently did you purge the coolant system of air? If you did not adequately purge the coolant system, then air bubbles may surround the coolant temperature sensor's probe. This sensor sends a signal to the computer, telling the computer when the engine is warm and so to stop running the idle high. Air bubbles can throw off the signal.

-- Do you hear any hissing, from any of the vacuum lines, suggesting a vacuum leak? Vacuum leaks can cause a high idle. Two vacuum hoses connect to an air control valve mounted at the bottom of the power steering pump. Recently you were working in the vicinity of the power steering pump. Listen especially down by the power steering pump. (One of the hoses goes to the intake plenum. The other hose goes to the bottom of the IAC valve, near the throttle body.)

-- A failed ECT sensor could be sending the wrong signal to the computer, causing the Rav4 to idle high. Here's a photo of the sensor's location:

To check the ECT sensor, unfasten its electrical connector. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across the two terminals of the connector. Check at hot and cold engine temperatures. Are the ohms consistent with the graph below?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
HI, thanks for the extensive answer. We have changed the gaskets on "everything" except the top. The high idling is from start. If I pump with the break pedal the idling increases to over 2000.
The model is 1995 and there are no codes coming forward.
We will try to reset the timing?
Cylinder to compression stroke and the camshaft mark lined up with the line ? or is it with the round mark?
The car is Kenya so the temp is at minimum 27 Degs Centigrade throughout the 24 hrs.
Thankful for any further help
 

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Check this post: DIY - Timing belt
It contains an extremely detailed video depicting the proper way to replace the timing belt.
Open it on youtube (not embeded) to reveal timestamps that will let you jump right to the the timing setting part of the video.
 

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1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
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The high idling is from start. If I pump with the break pedal the idling increases to over 2000.
From numerous sites, words like this appear: "When you depress the brake pedal, some of the engine vacuum is bled off to power the brake booster. The engine senses this decrease in vacuum the same as it would a decrease in vacuum caused by stepping on the accelerator pedal and increases the flow of fuel through the injection system in response. With more fuel being supplied, the engine speeds up." I do not think high RPM (both at hot and cold temperatures) says anything about the timing.
 
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