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I have a 04 Sport, my wife has an 04 also. And my brother-in-law has an 04 too. Lots of 04 RAVs!

After driving all three I realized that all them have an annoying feature that I think I've fixed. I'm used to pressing on the accelerator and getting an instant response from the engine. That's because I've always driven cars with a mechanical connection between the accelerator and the throttle body or carburetor. Sometimes a cable connecttion or in the old days it was an actual lever-assembly. However, the RAV doesn't have a mechanical connection between you and the engine, it's all electronic.

When you press the accelerator you actually move an electronic sensor or potentiometer. It 's connected to the engine by a wiring harness that, in turn, directs an electrical servo motor to open or close the throttle. It's a "fly-by-wire" process every time you press the accelerator.

I found that all of the 3 RAVs require 1/8" or more movement in the accelerator before the engine responds. I really didn't like that so I looked into the problem. As it turns out, there is an adjustment on the sensor mounting bracket that allows it to be adjusted to give it more or less "dead space" . All it takes is a 7mm wrench and some patience. But with a little trial and error, you can adjust it for a better response. Now when I touch the accelerator the engine responds much quicker.

I'll try and post some photos of it when I get the time.
 
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wow... nice one... now can you figure out how to adjust the steering wheel? mine is off center and lots of people complain it's too "light"
 
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That's interesting about the 04 accelerator being electronic. I have a 02 model which is still a cable, but I also like no slack before take up.

Steering wheel offset can be caused by two things. Incorrectly adjusted steering tie rods, or misaligned rear wheels.

To determine which it is, sight along the inside of the front tyres to the back wheels moving the steering until both wheels reveal the same amount of back tyre I.E. dead straight. Note where the steering spoke is now. If it is correct, then the tie rods are set correctly. Otherwise, first adjust tie rods to correct.

Now drive the car, if the steering wheel spoke is not in the same position to the dead staright that you just sighted, then the back wheels have some steer. This sterr causes crabbing of the car, which in turn causes the steering to have to be moved slightly from the straight ahead position. Unless you have the skills to correct this yourself, you will need to get the rear wheels aligned.

Brian
 

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fld said:
I have a 04 Sport, my wife has an 04 also. And my brother-in-law has an 04 too. Lots of 04 RAVs!

After driving all three I realized that all them have an annoying feature that I think I've fixed. I'm used to pressing on the accelerator and getting an instant response from the engine. That's because I've always driven cars with a mechanical connection between the accelerator and the throttle body or carburetor. Sometimes a cable connecttion or in the old days it was an actual lever-assembly. However, the RAV doesn't have a mechanical connection between you and the engine, it's all electronic.

When you press the accelerator you actually move an electronic sensor or potentiometer. It 's connected to the engine by a wiring harness that, in turn, directs an electrical servo motor to open or close the throttle. It's a "fly-by-wire" process every time you press the accelerator.

I found that all of the 3 RAVs require 1/8" or more movement in the accelerator before the engine responds. I really didn't like that so I looked into the problem. As it turns out, there is an adjustment on the sensor mounting bracket that allows it to be adjusted to give it more or less "dead space" . All it takes is a 7mm wrench and some patience. But with a little trial and error, you can adjust it for a better response. Now when I touch the accelerator the engine responds much quicker.

I'll try and post some photos of it when I get the time.

could you care to elaborate where this 'sensor mounting bracket' is located? i want to give this a try as this 'drive-by-wire' system on the RAV's throttle is driving me nuts. there are times when you're in an emergency situation and you need that quick acceleration but you stomp the gas and this annoying LAG hits you :evil:
 
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The sensor is located on the bracket that holds the accelerator petal. There are two bolts that are easy to remove, then just disconnect the wire connector in the sensor. From there you can adjust the pre-load setting in the sensor position. The whole thing has a stiff spring on it to return the petal to the idle position. Made the adjustments slowly, until you get to the point of little or no 'dead spots'. If you adjust it too far, the idle speed will be too high.

I notice you had a 2003, and I can't speak for what it has. I've heard that the 04-05 is different since they use a different engine, so all I'm telling you may not apply to the 03 model. In any event, the lag you experience when you nail the throttle hard and have to wait for it to respond may not be helped by this adjustment. This adjustment works well to eliminate the dead spot coming off idle as you accelerate normally from a stop, but the full throttle delay is another issue, and other sensors, computer, etc. all contribute to that problem.

Hope this helps.
 

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I have a 04 as well and I was also disgusted with the lack of throttle response. I went ahead and installed a direct cold air intake and noticed a huge improvement right away.... but I'm wondering if this little mod of yours might add just a little bit more jump to the set up I have now. Any thoughts about that? The set up I have is a K&N Double Cone filter, mounted directly behind the right side cooling fan (in Europe the rav's have two fans, not sure about in N.America, and when I say right side I mean driver's side when facing the vehicle from outside), with the pipe attatched straight inline with the elbow shaped pipe coming from the engine. The air intake sensor is fitted into the piece I used to join the straight pipe to the elbow pipe. I turned the elbow pipe around so that the end that was originaly joined to engine is now attatched to the pipe coming from the filter. I did this so that the direction of air flow would be in a straight line, and the elbow pipe had to be turned over so that the air intake sensor would fit in (wiring harness length was to short when elbow pipe was in original position and rotated straight ahead) Needless to say that the rest of the stock air box and all that other crap is gone. If this makes sense to you.... y'know, if you can kinda get an image of what I've done, do you think fiddling with the pedal set up might give me some extra action, or have I simply solved the problem another way and added a few ponies at the same time? Peace, Jamie.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
After reading this I too found to have a slack 'under the pedal' ..

Turns out the tension to the cruise control wasn't out enough ... tightened it up ... no slack, better throttle response !!

Thanks guys !
SR :D
 
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