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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there!
Just joined the forum as i had a few questions.

We have a 2008 Rav4 V6 4x4 and the inner tie rods are getting pretty worn.
Went to this one shop and they claimed that they couldn't find the inner tie rods anywhere and toyota says we have to change the ENTIRE rack for $4200.

Upon further investigation i had found inner tie rods at this local parts place in town for $47 a piece.

So my question is should i buy the inners and do it myself?
Or get effed by the automotive shop i brought it to lol

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i think im going to go that route,
I was also wondering if you needed any special tools to get the inner tie rod out?

Thanks for the reply!
 

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fairly simple to do with the right tool, try your local harbor freight for this tool>

Inner Tie Rod Removal Set

Rock Auto for the inner tie rods and you may need to replace your stabilizer strut-links, also look at your sway bar bushings since your in there, also fairly easy.....i did order an aftermarket from AMAZON> FEBEST TSB-ACA38FR Front Right Stabilizer Bushing and the left, they did not last long.....best to take the bite and pay aprox $40 each for the left and right, there is a big difference in quality. Also if you do the inner ties rods, your outer ties are probably dead, so now your are just about replacing every thing other than the rack. I did that route with all new kyb struts....(total rebuild of the struts) add LCA w/BJ's then you should be done. not sure of your mileage, i have a 2007 2wd with the engine rebuilt by dealer under the ZE7 warranty and did additional repairs at an extra cost. This is my daily work vehicle so the areas i drive in NY/NJ/PA the roads are punishing!
The inner tie rod rack boots should be good, just cut/snap of band clamp, you can get stainless steel zip ties at Home Depot or just get the SS worm-drive hose clamps...look around you can get thin ones that look better than the big ones at Home Depot, also use thread lock on the inner tie rod threads and then you will need an alignment. just count the turns when you extract the TRs(inner and outer and/ or measure the lengths, plenty of repair you tube videos or the info in these forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all of the tips!

I'm glad i found this forum and people actually reply lol

our Rav4 has just about 200,000 KM right now, have to find all the pieces and give it a try!
thanks again.
 

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Update

Hey,

Just curious if you ever did replace this? I had toyota tell me today on my 2008 RAV4 V6 that the rack and inner tie rod were one unit only. Just over $3000 to replace. Seem ridiculous to me that would need to be done!

Thanks,
Josh
 

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Hey,

Just curious if you ever did replace this? I had toyota tell me today on my 2008 RAV4 V6 that the rack and inner tie rod were one unit only. Just over $3000 to replace. Seem ridiculous to me that would need to be done!

Thanks,
Josh
If you read post 4 they are replaceable. If one side is worn you might as well replace the inner and outer tie rods and get them all at a discount price at RockAuto. Replacing all the tie rods (both sides L/R side) at one time can save you money doing an alignment just once.

The dealer are famous for ripping people off and prey on the uninformed. Do you really want to pay $3000 when all you need is $100 in parts?
 

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rack eh? well i just bought a replacement rack for mine from maval in the usa which is Canada's rebuilder for toyota. The rebuilt rack was about 1000 cad shipped.

I went this route because the racks bushings are shot. Installation is happening this weekend. im guessing 400 or so for the install. if you want the contact i used for the part let me know.
 

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ravsterv6 is correct, i did a whole rebuild of everything in there the first time, except the rack. I drive a lot on in NY/NY/PA roads, the final part that fixed all issues was the rack, yes most likely the bushings are shot. I order from a dealer in Virginia, $750(US) plus a band clamp for the i-shaft thru the firewall (that was the hardest thing to do) you may have to grind the studs off the rear trans-mount, i would also order that part or once part is out just punch out studs and thru-bolt.
It can be a DYI, you just need to support vehicle/trans and motor. Job took aprox 4 hrs just for the rack swap, total time maybe 6hrs.
 

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just wanted to follow up on the rack replacement job. My mechanic did it this weekend as well as the front struts and springs and rear breaks.

charged me 6 hours labour. said the rack was 4 hours.

very pleased. runs so.much better over the wonderful mtl roads.
 

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Anyone:
The part which has failed on my 2010 RAV V6 4WD is the inner tie rod end. Does anyone know the torque for the inner tie rod end? The Toyota shop manual does not have it because according to them, the whole rack is the replaceable part.

myravis_silver:
Thanks for the very informative post. The shop manual had a step of removing the engine and I was wondering if the job could be done without that step. Your post packed details of how to do it in a short posting.
 

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Anyone:
The part which has failed on my 2010 RAV V6 4WD is the inner tie rod end. Does anyone know the torque for the inner tie rod end?
moog and most others should be at 53~ ft lbs and can use three bond, yota recommended (loctite) I did replacement with the B/A(beck/arnley) inner and i do recall it had a smidge of red(three bond-loctite) paste on the threads, some say as along as you torque them properly you should be good, even with out the thread-locker adhesive.

three bond #1324 is also the loctite red #271
 
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