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this is a very rough sketch of what I was thinking for the cargo well where your amps are. Either two RE8's or one RE10, a flush mount amp and leave the rear door sub as is for when you need to remove the box or trade it in. Then eventually upgrade the other speakers and run through a cleansweep or something similar, I like the factory deck look and it plays MP3's which is fine by me. I waiting till I get back from Iraq next year and my move to Vegas before I go buck wild on her.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Would the part number be stamped on it somewhere? Not sure how else to get the part number. Will look around. I am pretty sure I tossed the box.



I purchased mb quart 10" for 40 bucks on ebay last night. I have some 3/4 mdf. I am going to play with hiding the sub with the amps in the cargo area. but I think I want to get the door cover that doesn't have the speaker grill on it. depends on what the dealer wants for it or maybe I will wait a few months and try to find one from a junk yard.
 

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What size are the woofers for the front doors?

Also, can you describe this delay when using the adapter for the steering wheel controls?
 
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Discussion Starter #27
Omega Man said:
snowdreams1080
would you please give me the part number of the dash kit you have? Thanks in advance! :wink:
If you ever find the part number, I'd appreciate it if you could let me know as well.

Thanks
 
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they are 6.5's front and rears.
IT takes maybe half a second for the buttons to register, you kinda hold the button until the unit picks it up, can't just tap the button like before. but in the end I can turn the volume up and down and change tracks and switch the source all from my steering wheel. Still nice not to have them completely disconnected. but its much faster to access the headunit for those controls.

I just had the trim piece out and couldn't find a number. I will look for the box but I think it went out in the recycling yesterday.
 
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snowdreams1080 said:
I just had the trim piece out and couldn't find a number. I will look for the box but I think it went out in the recycling yesterday.
Thanks for looking for the part number
 
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Well, box is gone but found a wrapper in the garage. there are some numbers on the label. Maybe it will help...



well got an camry single din pocket from toyota for 10 bucks. also trimmed teh alpine trim piece to fit. Looks better. And I like the pocket, its been pretty handy for cd's and my phone.
was....



now......


 

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snowdreams1080 said:
they are 6.5's front and rears.
IT takes maybe half a second for the buttons to register, you kinda hold the button until the unit picks it up, can't just tap the button like before. but in the end I can turn the volume up and down and change tracks and switch the source all from my steering wheel. Still nice not to have them completely disconnected. but its much faster to access the headunit for those controls.

I just had the trim piece out and couldn't find a number. I will look for the box but I think it went out in the recycling yesterday.
Is this because the control adapter is an IR converter? (basically acting like the remote control?)

As for the faceplate, I, too have the same kit. Got it from our mutual friend.

Hope you don't mind answering another question:

How is the wiring for the factory component speakers? Is there a common pair of wiring going into the door, then spliced apart? Or is there differing pairs of wires for the tweeter and the woofer?
 
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Discussion Starter #32
snowdreams1080 said:
Well, box is gone but found a wrapper in the garage. there are some numbers on the label. Maybe it will help...
Thanks a lot! I'm sure it will help a lot, but now to track down where I can order one from! :)

The install looks great! I hope mine comes out as nice when it's done.
 
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I got the alpine 9857 and the swi alp for that reason. it plugs in the back. I was worried about a remote delay. its not terrible, just noticable at first. Starting to get used to it and not noticing as much.

It looks like the wires running in are independant at least through the door. the tweeter and the woofer seem different.

side note... the front is your typical hole in the white body. easy to run wires through... a nice coat hanger and your set. Its the rear doors that were a pain. they have a fast clip for the wire harness into the white body. had to be creative to get the wires through. I ended up running it through the relief for the snap clip tab. I had twisted pair 16 or 18 guage wire that happened to fit.

Good luck.
 

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im thinking of just putting a sub in and connecting it to the oem sub amp. where did you run the power cable through the firewall. i looked and it seemed very tight. only place i would consider is the passenger side. there is a huge gang of wires coming through there.

also would anyone have the wiring diagram. i need to know which wires to pull the signal feed off of since i plan to keep the jvc deck.

thx
 
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hey snowdreams, how did you remove the plastic panel from the door? did you just pull it off or did you need to remove some screws?
 
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I ran the power through that grommit with all the wires on the passagener side. it was easiest place.

doors come off with lots of fast clips and three screws.

The first is hiding behind a trim plate behind the door handle. it pops off with three clips.

the second two are behind the grab bar. pull the golf ball texture peice off to find them.

another note the window switch control panel is quick clipped in the front towards teh tip of the triangle. then has tabs that slide under the arm rest towards teh back.
 

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Hi all, first post here but Iv'e been lurking for a while. I have been fasinated with this thread though as it appeared the week after I nutted it out myself.

I put 4 - 6.5" splits in the doors and sat the two amps in the storage box at the back just like the photo above. Like the post says I ran the amp wires through the passenger side grommet, easy as when you take out the glove box. Wires to the front speakers were easy, rear ones was tricky, as stated. I put mine through the plug after studying them for an hour or so. Rear tweeters were drilled straight through the door panel cause its my door and that's that.

The deck I placed in the upper half of the double din with a universal tray slotted in under it. I used some side plates from a corolla (I think) to fill in the gaps. They fit perfectly in the screw holes of the mounting brackets. I haven't quite got the deck faceplate sitting okay yet but i'll have another go when I get more time.

I have a loose 12" Sub sitting in a box in the back, which I can take out if I need the room. Might get a flatter one like the pic above and try to fit it in the storage tray sometime.

It sounds absolutely wicked compared to the stock transistor radio with 2 watt earphone speakers in the doors. You reckon you got it bad in the States! Wait till I post photos of the crap I took out of my RAV. I have better magnets holding the fish on my fridge.

All up it took about 16 hours to nut out, dismantle and install the lot.
 
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i am in the same boat now. got a 10" floating around in the rear while I examine either fiberglassing the sub into the rear door or building a box to fit in the cargo area with the amps. leaning towards teh cargo area. The 8" wasn't blown and I was air tight like I thought. Just using a jl 250/1 to push it over heated it for a bit. seems to be working fine now. but an eight just doesn't cut it when I am used to 12's. Only problem is I bought this for the cargo room. so don't want a bunch of subs cluttering up the rear. Not a whole lot of depth in the cargo area either for a sub and the box design I was thinking of. That shallow mount pioneer would be nice but going to work with what I have already purchased. If someone makes that work please, please send me pics!
 

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06v6RAV4 said:
If you ever find the part number, I'd appreciate it if you could let me know as well.
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Plus :arrow:
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