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Discussion Starter #61
Probably. might have to space them out a bit but there is a ton of room in that area.
 

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autumnwood said:
Can the stock speaker locations upfront take 7"(176mm) or 7.2"(182mm) midbass woofers? As I am looking to put either SEAS W18NX or Scanspeak 18W/4531G into those locations.
I just installed a pair of Dynaudio MW170 7" speakers up front. It was a good bit of work, but I got them to fit nicely.

First, I used a jigsaw with a metal blade & cut exactly 3/16" of the sheet metal around the stock hole. Then, while wearing gloves, sanded the jagged edges of the inside of the mounting hole down well with sandpaper attached to a small piece of MDF...to keep from ripping skin open. The mounting hole of the speakers is 6.77" (172 mm).

The speakers' mounting depth is 3.06" (77.9 mm). I made sure the backs of the speakers would not touch the windows when rolled down by holding the speaker in the mounting hole while the window was rolled down. I determined that I needed a 1" spacer to keep from hitting the window with the rears of the speakers. So I glued two 1/2" pieces of MDF together. Let that sit overnight & then cut 2 MDF rings just big enough around so that the door panels would go back on.

The screw holes (where the rivets once were) for the stock speakers remained after cutting the sheet metal, so I used them to mount my MDF spacer rings...used #14 sheet metal screws to screw the MDF rings into the stock screw holes. Before installing the MDF rings, I put Dynamat around the speaker opening. Then used gasket material behind the MDF rings. Then screwed the MDF rings in.

Was a little tedious & took quite awhile to install, but it worked beautifully. I'll provide pics soon.

After those were installed, I made a pair of MDF mounts for the tweeters to go in the stock tweeter locations. Got those done, but I won't install those until the entire system is finished as the passive x-overs will be installed on the speaker box near the amps.
 
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Discussion Starter #63
Thanks guys!

Nice job, rscotta831!!! What are you going to pair those MW170 with?
 

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autumnwood said:
Thanks guys!

Nice job, rscotta831!!! What are you going to pair those MW170 with?
Thanks! Right now, going to pair them with a pair of Boston Neo 5t tweets as I currently have just an 11-band in-dash Alpine EQ.

I also have a pair of Image Dynamics Neo CD-2 Mini-Horn HLCDs. I installed those in my last car, but couldn't get them to sound right with that EQ...too harsh in the midrange section. I plan to someday purchase the Alpine H701 digital 30-band/parametric/crossover/time alignment unit. Then, I'll be able to hook up the horns.
 
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Discussion Starter #66
Ever heard of painting the metal underneath the spacers?
 
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Discussion Starter #68
49ferrell said:
Definition for JBL: Junk But Loud
Well - For what its worth, and the cost of the option, its a hell of alot better than the standard system. Much better separation. Still doesn't hold a candle to a proper setup of quality aftermarket gear.

I went through quite an ordeal to get my car in jersey with JBL. But after only a week I've been wondering about upgrades. This threads got my mind racing and wallet running scared.
 

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SUVbuff73 said:
Ever heard of painting the metal underneath the spacers?
By painting, do you mean regular spray paint? If so, why would that help?

And which sheet metal? The sheet metal in which the spacer is mounted on? Or the rear wall sheet metal that's 5 inches behind the speaker?
 

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autumnwood said:
rscotta831,

Do you think the stock speaker locations can put in these speakers? :
http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/printview.php?id=84

Scanspeak 18W/4531G00

I persume the mounting hole diameter of 6.77"(172mm) is the same as pitch diameter on the Scanspeak dimension picture.
Their "pitch" diameter shows the diameter of one edge of the surround to the opposite side. That's not the mounting diameter.

That speaker's mounting diameter is 156 mm, as the diagram on the right shows. My Dynaudio's are 172 mm. Difference of 16 mm (.63"). When I cut the sheet metal, I cut 3/16" all the way around. So doubling 3/16" (total diameter cut), that equals 3/8" (.375")

(.63") - (.375") = (.255")

So yes, your speakers will fit without cutting any sheet metal.

That speaker's mounting depth is the same as my Dyn's (77 mm), so you'll need to glue two 1/2" pieces of MDF together for a spacer.


One other thing, I took a knife & cut as much plastic as possible on the door panels where it protrudes out from the stock speaker grille (on the inside of the door panel). I couldn't tell whether or not it would end up hitting my speakers once I put the door panel back on, but I did not want to take any chances of the speakers hitting that plastic because it would damage the speakers. And since I used a 1" spacer, I knew the speakers would stick out quite a bit.
 

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snowdreams1080 said:
Got the rear speakers swapped. what a PITA. Running the speaker wire through the wire connector mounted to the body of the car was evil!
I'm, right now, in the process of running wire through those wire connectors. Holy crap what a PITA!! Wish you woulda explained how to do this. :) Going back out to tackle it. Thanks Toyota for making my day MUCH longer! :evil:
 

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rscotta831 said:
snowdreams1080 said:
Got the rear speakers swapped. what a PITA. Running the speaker wire through the wire connector mounted to the body of the car was evil!
I'm, right now, in the process of running wire through those wire connectors. Holy crap what a PITA!! Wish you woulda explained how to do this. :) Going back out to tackle it. Thanks Toyota for making my day MUCH longer! :evil:
Actually wasn't bad. Took a 1/4" drill bit & drilled through the upper portion of the connector where the small tabs were. Wallowed my bit around to make a little more room for the wire to go through. The connector remained connected after drilling, so that access point worked excellent.

Routing the speaker wires through the all the boots have been the biggest PITA of the entire install. I use one of those long bendable automotive parts-pickup wands with the claw on the end of it. After I shove it through the boot, I wire-tie the speaker wire to it a few times & then pull the wand back through.
 
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Discussion Starter #74
there is actually room where the unit clips in. the relief for the quick clip has a small hole under it. I took a fancy metal close hanger and worked it through tapped my wire to it and pulled it back out. took a few times and experimenting to make the tape hold but got it through. most headache of the job by far.
 
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Discussion Starter #75
well back to the reason I started this thread.... to show off my truck.

Here is before.

and after a little wood and carpet



and my filthy truck in need of a huge bath. but its supposed to rain so I will wait till the weekend

 
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Discussion Starter #76
I was just simply trying to point out, that by painting the sheetmetal you'll save it from corrosion.

Unless you did that, I could not tell from the picture.

You do not want your speakers fall of 2 years down the road right?

Whenever you cut something, it should be painted.
 

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snowdreams1080 said:
there is actually room where the unit clips in. the relief for the quick clip has a small hole under it. I took a fancy metal close hanger and worked it through tapped my wire to it and pulled it back out. took a few times and experimenting to make the tape hold but got it through. most headache of the job by far.
Ya, I just drilled that exact area with a 1/4" drill bit. No way the connector was going to fall out after drilling it, so it worked good.
 

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SUVbuff73 said:
I was just simply trying to point out, that by painting the sheetmetal you'll save it from corrosion.

Unless you did that, I could not tell from the picture.

You do not want your speakers fall of 2 years down the road right?

Whenever you cut something, it should be painted.
I see what you're saying. But I don't believe the speaker hole will see any moisture. That's what relief holes in the doors are for...to relieve moisture inside the doors. If the moisture built up due to no relief holes, the moisture would damage the speakers...it would make no sense to ruin nice speakers by putting them into doors. Even if the sheet metal does corrode, it would just corrode where I cut it, not any further up. And the MDF rings are mounted with thick #14 screws. I don't think the speakers are going to fall out of my doors...at least not in my lifetime. :)
 
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swapmeet said:
What brand side steps are those? Are those the Toyota ones or another manufacturer?
They are from toyota. came on it when I bought it. along with the tint.
 
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