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The picture you show in this thread only shows 2 plastic electrical plugs coming out of your dash. Mine has three! I have a pioneer premier model 680 receiver. Can you tell me where you got your wiring kit? I need one that is hopefully plug and play.
 

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Omega Man said:
The picture you show in this thread only shows 2 plastic electrical plugs coming out of your dash. Mine has three! I have a pioneer premier model 680 receiver. Can you tell me where you got your wiring kit? I need one that is hopefully plug and play.
Yes, there are 3 plugs. If you have the NON-JBL radio, only 2 of those plugs will be hooked up. And only those 2 will be needed for ANY after-market deck. Here's your need-to-know info for the wiring harness:

The standard Toyota wiring harness at your local car audio dealer will work. The package comes with 2 separate wiring harnesses. It's the same wiring harness package Toyota has used for years.

If your local car audio dealer is out of stock, one can be purchased through Crutchfield for $10 + $6.98 shipping.
 

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I stayed up until 1:30 a.m. this morning installing my stereo. It was an absolute nightmare. I used the Japanese version of the installation kit. The two narrow plastic trim pieces that fit on either side of the DIN assemblies did not match up with the brackets. I had to use a hot knife to carve out a piece of the plastic and then I had to use a drill to cut one of the holes bigger. In the process of installing it I dropped one of those 10 mm screws down into the dash. :x

Nevertheless I finished it and the sound is fantastic. My head unit is the pioneer 680 MP, which is from their premier line. I can't wait until I changed out my rear speakers, they will be Alpines. I will report back and let you know how the final product sounds. Thanks for all your help.
 

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Omega Man said:
I stayed up until 1:30 a.m. this morning installing my stereo. It was an absolute nightmare. I used the Japanese version of the installation kit. The two narrow plastic trim pieces that fit on either side of the DIN assemblies did not match up with the brackets. I had to use a hot knife to carve out a piece of the plastic and then I had to use a drill to cut one of the holes bigger.
That's odd. My plastic trim pieces matched up with the brackets, mounting holes-wise.
 

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Hey all.
To those of you that have already installed amps and speakers, I can’t thank you enough. I know I and many others will benefit from your experience. I have a Base 2006 without JBL. I have already replaced my HU, and I’m in process of planning for amps. Question is where in the firewall did you run your power cables for your amps?
 
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Discussion Starter #87
hey snowdreams, is it safe to put your amps in that area? won't the amps get really hot and maybe overheat since there is no airflow over there?
 
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Discussion Starter #88
they get a little warm but there is plenty of air. but I am not running a 1000 watt mono. I currently have a box down there with a JL 12w3v3 and the amps. its getting a bit warm on long rides. If you are really worried about it, pipe some air down there with a 12V dc fan. I have considered it. but not yet. I will try to get pics. i have run the 12" for about a month no worries. windows down full volume no cut off from overheating for 45 minute drives.
 

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Very very helpful thread.

This thread may be old to resurrect, but I've been chatting with Crutchfield and it seems like their information is incorrect. They are saying the limitation is the mounting height because speakers will hit the grill. However, with a 1" spacer working, this obviously isn't the case. The real problem is the mounting depth, where deeper than stock speakers will interfere with window operation. Is this correct?
 

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Re: Very very helpful thread.

andrewcj said:
This thread may be old to resurrect, but I've been chatting with Crutchfield and it seems like their information is incorrect. They are saying the limitation is the mounting height because speakers will hit the grill. However, with a 1" spacer working, this obviously isn't the case. The real problem is the mounting depth, where deeper than stock speakers will interfere with window operation. Is this correct?
Yes, there is a plastic "stock speaker rest" that protrudes from the door panels. It encompasses the stock speaker grille on the inside. It is there to allow the stock speakers to form a "sound tunnel" bridge from the stock speaker to the speaker grille.

As I mentioned somewhere in this forum, I took a knife & cut as much of it out as I could. Reason being is...I couldn't tell if my Dynaudio 7" speaks' cones would physically hit these "rests" or not, but I didn't want to take a chance. I had to use 1" worth of a MDF ring to allow my 7" to keep from its magnet hitting the window inside the door. So I figured the 7" speaks' cones would likely hit these plastic "stock speaker rests", thus the reason I cut them out.

In my rear doors, I installed 6.75 Polk coaxials & I only needed 3/4" MDF rings. Again, I cut the plastic "stock speaker rests" out just in case.

The real concern is the aftermarket speaks' mounting depth. I don't know exactly what the MAX mounting depth is, but I would suggest using 3/4" MDF spacers to be safe.

The best way to tell is...after you uninstall the stock speaks, with the door panel off & window rolled down, hold your new speak in the mounting location flush up against the sheet metal, look down from above the door & see if the magnet touches the window. If it doesn't touch, you can use 1/2" MDF & you should be able to get away from the speaks' cones not touching the plastic "stock speaker rests."

Obviously, if you can't put the new speak in flush to the sheet metal, the magnet is touching the window. In that case, you likely will need to use 3/4" MDF & likely will need to cut the plastic "stock speaker rests" out...just to be on the safe side. You don't want your new speaks' cones pounding plastic.
 

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Very helpfull, thanks!

Another question, is it mostly airtight behind the speakers? Are they basically in a metal enclosure?
 

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andrewcj said:
Very helpfull, thanks!

Another question, is it mostly airtight behind the speakers? Are they basically in a metal enclosure?
NP.

No, doors are never airtight. But you want to seal the area between the speaks & the sheet metal they're mounted on...as in, behind the speaks' mounting circumference.
 
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Discussion Starter #93
Hi rscotta831,
You mentioned you using MDF for mounting your tweeters. I followed your MDF instructions for the woofer install --they were great.
If you get around to it, could you write up a few guidelines for what you did using the MDF for the tweeter install?
Thanks.
 

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farnorthdriver said:
Hi rscotta831,
You mentioned you using MDF for mounting your tweeters.

If you get around to it, could you write up a few guidelines for what you did using the MDF for the tweeter install?
Thanks.
Sure. The thickness of the MDF that you'll need will depend on the MAX mounting height of your tweeters. Being that I wanted my tweets to aim towards the windshield, I used the angle mounts that came with my Boston tweets. You may not want your tweets to aim towards the windshield. It's all personal preference. However, I'm very pleased with the results vs. aiming them directly outward.

Using the angle mounts that came with my tweets, I determined that I needed 1/2" MDF.

Had I used the surface mounts that came with my tweets & aimed them directly outward, I prolly could have used 3/4" MDF or used two 1/2" pieces glued together. Of course, the 1/2" piece might have sufficed. It's all in how close you want your tweets to the back of the stock tweeter grilles. Obviously, you don't want them too far outward or your stock tweet grilles will not pop back in place.

On to determining the length x width of the MDF...with the door panel off, I measured the distance between the 2 mounting holes for the stock tweeter bracket. I added an extra inch to my measurements so that I'd have enough length to work with.

As for the width, I just guessed I needed ~ 2 inches...enough room to mount the tweets. So I cut my two MDF pieces at ~ 8" long x 2" wide. (Can't recall exactly...that's just a rough guess).

Then, I took a stock tweeter bracket & placed it on both pieces of the MDF I cut. Using a pencil, I marked the stock tweeter mounting holes. Make sure you get the holes aligned near-perfect. Otherwise, obviously, the MDF pieces won't line up right to the screw holes in the doors.

Then, using a ~ 1/4" drill bit, I drilled though the MDF at those 4 points (2 holes per MDF piece) that I marked off.

I countersunk the stock screws' heads by using a 5/8" spade drill bit, like this......



& drilled JUST deep enough into those 4 holes so that the stock screw would protrude far enough through the bottom of the MDF so that it would screw into the stock mounting holes in the door. Be careful NOT to drill too far. Drill slowly once you get halfway through the MDF. A little tedious, I know, but it works beautifully.

Obviously, you do not have to use the stock screws. You can go to a hardware store & buy 4 screws that are identical to the stock screws, yet longer. Then you do not have to use the countersink procedure. I own a set of spade drill bits...that's why I countersunk the stock screws.

Then mount the MDF pieces into place on the doors. Then pop the stock tweeter grilles off the door panels. Then place the door panels on. Then position your aftermarket tweeter brackets through the stock tweet opening onto the MDF...at the place you desire...using one hand. (It may be easier to take a pencil & circle around the tweet brackets first, then take the door panels back off). Then screw the aftermarket tweeter brackets onto the MDF.

Put your tweets in the brackets, wire it up, put the stock tweeter grilles back on & you're set!
 
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Discussion Starter #95
Ah, yes. It's all becoming clear now ......
Thanks a lot!
PS I've never heard of aiming tweets at the windshield (but there's a lot I haven't heard of). Is that a common practice?
Where do they usually get aimed?
 

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Aiming tweets at the windshield is really simple logic if you think about it. You want good imaging & to, as much as possible, NOT be able to point at a tweeter with your eyes closed.

The old trick was aiming the passenger tweet at the driver's head & vice versa. It sounds ok, but the tweets are too apparent...too "in-your-face."

Aiming them as close to the center of the windshield as possible gives the tweeters another path to your ears...something to bounce off of...which in turn, hides its origin better, thus better imaging.

Audio competitors have aimed their tweets at their windshields for over 2 decades. Just took it awhile to become a well-known tip.

Most competitors install their tweets inside the A-pillars & aim them at the center of the windshield. Of course, that requires fabrication. If you don't mind cutting up your A-pillars & then making a stock-looking fabrication, then go for it. But since we RAV4 owners have a stock tweet location in the doors, to me, it's good enough.

Keep in mind, if you aim your tweets at the windshield from the stock tweet locations in the doors behind the grilles, you'll have to mount them in the bottom corner of the opening...so that they'll aim at the windshield (NOT aim at the inside of your door panel)...like.......




BUT, I couldn't get them to aim at the center of the windshield. Could only get them about a 1/3 of the way across. Still images nicely though.
 

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Nice idea on where to install the amps. I'm thinking to plant my amp at the plastic console where you run your cables. I was trying to take it off to take the measurements and will replace it with custom woods but realized it's not as easy as taking off the 4 screws. Help.. Oh do you have overheat problem installing the amps there?

snowdreams1080 said:
well back to the reason I started this thread.... to show off my truck.

Here is before.

and after a little wood and carpet

 
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