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Discussion Starter #21
Japan cars have different ECU's too. Even pinouts at the harness can be different between different markets.
Yes, I'm just going to have to pull this U140F and have them call tag it. I can take car to AAmco for a free evaluation but not sure if that will help anything at this point. There probably gonna tell me "wrong transmission".



I called the seller of the U140F today, have done everything they suggest, guy was gonna have the mechanic call me back and didn't.

They are horrible in support. I can get a U241E in FL so might drive there this weekend to pick up.
 

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Yes. I can move the shifter between 3-D.
For the trouble one would have to go through to correct this issue, I would just use the triptronic shifter and move between the gears manually. It's probably hard in the beginning to get into the habit of manual shifting but I'm sure it'll become second nature in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
For the trouble one would have to go through to correct this issue, I would just use the triptronic shifter and move between the gears manually. It's probably hard in the beginning to get into the habit of manual shifting but I'm sure it'll become second nature in no time.
I'm not sure what triptronic is. Would like to try that to see if Drive even will engage. How does one do that?
 

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I'm not sure what triptronic is. Would like to try that to see if Drive even will engage. How does one do that?
By tiptronic, he just means manual gear selection. Tiptronic is the sequential shifting buttons (or up/down) in some cars like VW or Porsche.

Can you do manual gear selection 1-2-3-D?


2012 RAV4 Base FWD.
Upgraded to large from brakes and 3rd row rear springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
OK, after further review of the service manual, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) controls the transmission. This is located under the hood next to the battery. There are 4 different transmissions available for the 4.3. They are U140F (4 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151E (5 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151F (5 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, and U241E (4 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle. Each one will have a unique ECU. There is also a specific RESET procedure for the ECU when a transmission is replaced. Disconnecting the battery won't do it:

INITIALIZATION
1. RESET MEMORY
NOTICE:
• Perform the RESET MEMORY procedures (A/T
initialization) when replacing the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly or ECM.
• RESET MEMORY can be performed only with the
intelligent tester.
HINT:
The ECM memorizes the vehicle conditions when the
ECT controls the automatic transaxle assembly and
engine assembly. Therefore, when the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly, or ECM has been
replaced, it is necessary to reset the memory so that the
ECM can memorize the new information.
The reset procedures are as follows.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(b) Connect the intelligent tester to the CAN VIM. Then
connect the CAN VIM to the DLC3.
(c) Turn the ignition switch ON and turn the tester ON.
(d) Enter the following menus: DIAGNOSIS /
ENHANCED OBD II.
(e) Perform the reset memory procedures from the
Engine menu.
CAUTION:
After performing the RESET MEMORY
procedures, be sure to perform the ROAD TEST
(see page AX-12) as described earlier.
HINT:

The ECM learns through the ROAD TEST.
Do you think I can take the car to Toyota and they can "reset" the TCU or ECM or ECU so the car knows the transmission went from a U241E to a U140F? Or would I need to buy a different module under the hood TCM (Big flat silver box).
 

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Do you think I can take the car to Toyota and they can "reset" the TCU or ECM or ECU so the car knows the transmission went from a U241E to a U140F? Or would I need to buy a different module under the hood TCM (Big flat silver box).
I suspect Toyota wouldn’t touch it at this point, as it’s a bit of a Frankenstein unfortunately.


2012 RAV4 Base FWD.
Upgraded to large from brakes and 3rd row rear springs.
 

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After reading all these posts what SoNic67 says might be on the right track. Or at least I know what I'd do, and have done on one of my F-250s. I'd identify the wires, probably three, in the transmission connector the operate the shift solenoids, pierce them with pins and using LEDs determine what signals are actually being sent to the transmission. If it's being told to go into all gears but isn't it could be a solenoid failure, a relatively inexpensive fix. If it's never getting the signal for Drive either the ECU or pinouts are wrong.

And one piece of advice for the future from a guy who's made a few mistakes over the years; don't make car decisions based on the woman's emotions. Somewhere in our years of marriage my wife came to a conclusion and now says, "I'll drive whatever you put under me." She does love her RAV4 V6 that she's had for ten years because, "It goes so easy."
 

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Discussion Starter #28
After reading all these posts what SoNic67 says might be on the right track. Or at least I know what I'd do, and have done on one of my F-250s. I'd identify the wires, probably three, in the transmission connector the operate the shift solenoids, pierce them with pins and using LEDs determine what signals are actually being sent to the transmission. If it's being told to go into all gears but isn't it could be a solenoid failure, a relatively inexpensive fix. If it's never getting the signal for Drive either the ECU or pinouts are wrong.

And one piece of advice for the future from a guy who's made a few mistakes over the years; don't make car decisions based on the woman's emotions. Somewhere in our years of marriage my wife came to a conclusion and now says, "I'll drive whatever you put under me." She does love her RAV4 V6 that she's had for ten years because, "It goes so easy."
I'm taking it to AAmco today for a "Free Evaluation". They know the transmission has been swapped so will see what they have to say tomorrow. I hope it is a bad shift solenoid. One thing I noticed right off after driving car with the newer transmission, the VSC LIGHT stays on all the time and the ICON of the CAR with squiggly track is on all the time. The AUTO LSD button has no effect either anymore. So something is way off.
 

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2006 Rav4 Sport 2.4L 2WD Original U241E transmission suddenly dies within hours last Friday. Car has 207,000 miles.
Car wouldn't even move and sounded like thousands of rocks in there.

Had a certified used U140F transmission shipped in from MD and local mechanic did the transmission
swap. Picked up car today. Biggest problem is car won't go into Drive (D) after 3rd gear.
Will auto shift itself from 1st, to 2nd to 3rd but that's where it ends.

I know the mechanic had to swap out the end plate from the old tranny to the new to fit in the engine compartment but not sure if any sensors or anything else needed to be swapped from bad transmission to the newer replacement.

Does the ECM or ECU need to be reprogrammed or reset so the car can go into DRIVE? IS that the issue or something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
You almost certainly have to reprogram the ECM or PCM to recognize the different transmission. It still thinks the old unit is in there and no telling what it's commanding the wrong transmission to do at the wrong speeds.
 

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2006 Rav4 Sport 2.4L 2WD Original U241E transmission suddenly dies within hours last Friday. Car has 207,000 miles.
Car wouldn't even move and sounded like thousands of rocks in there.

Had a certified used U140F transmission shipped in from MD and local mechanic did the transmission
swap. Picked up car today. Biggest problem is car won't go into Drive (D) after 3rd gear.
Will auto shift itself from 1st, to 2nd to 3rd but that's where it ends.

I know the mechanic had to swap out the end plate from the old tranny to the new to fit in the engine compartment but not sure if any sensors or anything else needed to be swapped from bad transmission to the newer replacement.

Does the ECM or ECU need to be reprogrammed or reset so the car can go into DRIVE? IS that the issue or something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Take it back to your mechanic if you ordered the transmission then he is not responsible for it's performance. get ready to pay.
scamp
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Update: Now the RAV4 is "bucking" at idle or neutral. Getting code P0238 for faulty knock sensor now. No other codes but motor is running rough. Not sure if the transmission caused this code to appear or if the knock sensor went bad because of the wrong transmission. Anyway at least it was driving ok before in all speeds except Drive before. Now I have to shifty manually from 1,2,3. Car would never be able to limp anywhere starting in "D" now.
 

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Did anybody knows the gear ratios of both transmissions? My 2004 have different ratios for the 2wd and the 4wd. Also check the differential ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Update: Now the RAV4 is "bucking" at idle or neutral. Getting code P0238 for faulty knock sensor now. No other codes but motor is running rough. Not sure if the transmission caused this code to appear or if the knock sensor went bad because of the wrong transmission. Anyway at least it was driving ok before in all speeds except Drive before. Now I have to shifty manually from 1,2,3. Car would never be able to limp anywhere starting in "D" now.
Update: Sorry, the correct KNOCK SENSOR code is P0328, not P0238.
Is this error coming up because the sensor has gone bad at the same time the transmission has been giving me these issues? The car is running rough, even at idle now in park or neutral. I has that missing sound until it gets to 2500-3000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Possible scenario as it seemed to start throw the P0328 code right after I took car back for mechanic to swap out the two speed sensors and the gear selector switch...I watched a YouTube video on how to replace the Knock Sensor and it looks like a horrible long process to gain access to it.
I wonder if when the transmission gets swapped out again in Decemeber, if it'll be easier to reach the knock sensor from underneath when the transmission is out?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
OK, after further review of the service manual, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) controls the transmission. This is located under the hood next to the battery. There are 4 different transmissions available for the 4.3. They are U140F (4 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151E (5 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle, U151F (5 Speed 4WD) Automatic Transaxle, and U241E (4 Speed 2WD) Automatic Transaxle. Each one will have a unique ECU. There is also a specific RESET procedure for the ECU when a transmission is replaced. Disconnecting the battery won't do it:

INITIALIZATION
1. RESET MEMORY
NOTICE:
• Perform the RESET MEMORY procedures (A/T
initialization) when replacing the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly or ECM.
• RESET MEMORY can be performed only with the
intelligent tester.
HINT:
The ECM memorizes the vehicle conditions when the
ECT controls the automatic transaxle assembly and
engine assembly. Therefore, when the automatic
transaxle assembly, engine assembly, or ECM has been
replaced, it is necessary to reset the memory so that the
ECM can memorize the new information.
The reset procedures are as follows.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(b) Connect the intelligent tester to the CAN VIM. Then
connect the CAN VIM to the DLC3.
(c) Turn the ignition switch ON and turn the tester ON.
(d) Enter the following menus: DIAGNOSIS /
ENHANCED OBD II.
(e) Perform the reset memory procedures from the
Engine menu.
CAUTION:
After performing the RESET MEMORY
procedures, be sure to perform the ROAD TEST
(see page AX-12) as described earlier.
HINT:

The ECM learns through the ROAD TEST.
I may take it to Toyota and drop it off for a checkup.
The car is running rough now on top of shifting issue. It makes a "puttering" sound now from exhaust when pulling out in 1st. Still no codes being thrown other than the KNOCK SENSOR. Would a code be thrown if a spark plug went bad but the coil was still good on that plug?
 

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I may take it to Toyota and drop it off for a checkup.
The car is running rough now on top of shifting issue. It makes a "puttering" sound now from exhaust when pulling out in 1st. Still no codes being thrown other than the KNOCK SENSOR. Would a code be thrown if a spark plug went bad but the coil was still good on that plug?
Toyota will probably suggest you get a new transmission for $5000. Not sure what else you expect them to say when most of the time they don't do band-aid fixes.
 

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Toyota will probably suggest you get a new transmission for $5000. Not sure what else you expect them to say when most of the time they don't do band-aid fixes.
Agreed, plus replacing anything else that wasn't stock on the car. I wish you luck but that'll likely be after many hours of high cost diagnostic charges. IMO, they'll consider you to have moved into "tuner" world so all repairs are on you.

Bottom line, again IMO, is you need to find a new independent shop who deals with all things Toyota and have them do a start-over assessment. They may just say "cut your loses."

Or maybe you can trade it in to recover what few bucks you can. That's what happened to me when my '06 Accord Hybrid broke its timing belt. I spent many hours replacing bent valves (but fortunately only $500 in parts) only to never have it run right again because of a crank position code this electrical engineer couldn't solve . After three new crank position sensors, all of different brands, I had it towed to Honda for them to figure out. After their $100+ diagnostic they said "someone's done a lot of work on this car." Yeah right!! When they wanted to spend another $800 to redo all the tests I'd done three times I called a halt. They gave me $500 trade-in toward a new '18 Accord Hybrid and I took it rather than let them run up my credit card with no guarantee of it ever running again or have it towed home and work on it many more hours with the same guarantee.
 
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Discussion Starter #40
Agreed, plus replacing anything else that wasn't stock on the car. I wish you luck but that'll likely be after many hours of high cost diagnostic charges. IMO, they'll consider you to have moved into "tuner" world so all repairs are on you.

Bottom line, again IMO, is you need to find a new independent shop who deals with all things Toyota and have them do a start-over assessment. They may just say "cut your loses."

Or maybe you can trade it in to recover what few bucks you can. That's what happened to me when my '06 Accord Hybrid broke its timing belt. I spent many hours replacing bent valves (but fortunately only $500 in parts) only to never have it run right again because of a crank position code this electrical engineer couldn't solve . After three new crank position sensors, all of different brands, I had it towed to Honda for them to figure out. After their $100+ diagnostic they said "someone's done a lot of work on this car." Yeah right!! When they wanted to spend another $800 to redo all the tests I'd done three times I called a halt. They gave me $500 trade-in toward a new '18 Accord Hybrid and I took it rather than let them run up my credit card with no guarantee of it ever running again or have it towed home and work on it many more hours with the same guarantee.
Advice well taken. I went and talked to the shop manager at Toyota today and told him my situation with the used U140F transmission. But my main concern is the "sputtering" misfire of the engine right now. That has to be figured out before I'd even consider another transmission swap for $500 labor (mech giving me a break on redo). Motor was rebuilt only 50,000 miles ago with new plugs, piston rings and plug coils. He didn't think the transmission was causing the car to go into "limp" mode. It might be worth the $139 diagnostic fee if I can get the real truth. I've been in a money pit before with my 4.3L 1990 Rinker bowrider.
 
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