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Discussion Starter #1
since it involves more codes and 4wd related problems i reopen this thread here

I decided yesterday to make a jumper method test for my Rav4 2006 2.4 i4 4wd limited as the OBD II ELM327 device didn't catch any codes.

First, there is no light error in my panel but i noticed that i have no airbag light whatsoever when turning the key to ON position or after starting the car. passenger airbag light is working fine on and off as well as the seat belt for the driver and the passenger. so i thought if i use the jump test method i may come to something and here are the codes i got

- p/s 41

- vsc 43 - 66

- ABS 41

- 4WD 94 - 99

i was surprised with all these codes and may some of them related to the airbag light or no .. please help me recognize them. i looked around and figure some as vsc codes 43 is skid control ECU malfunction ( is that too bad :confused:) and the 66 code is steering angle sensor zero point malfunction ( i don't know what is that?)

for the ABS 41 code is low battery positive voltage refering to battery or charging system or power source circuit or again Internal power supply circuit of skid control ECU.

The Other Codes i can't find for the p/s as well as the 4WD codes.

One note may help : while changing the iphone cable (i on't change it yet) i noticed after taking the touching screen system out of the panel .. there are many untouched wires (cut loose) is that related to the lights and codes? or are these wires/cables radio/sound system related only?

then why the OBDII device is not showing any codes at all? and the airbag light which the cause for all this does not show itself.

One more thing: when applying the key On and Off to read the codes one by one there was something making buzz sound under the dash toward the center of the dash under the main window screen area ( .. is that the ECU Location?

thoughts are much appreciated

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
i took off the glove box to have a look at the 4wd system and here are some attached pictures

i don't have the TPMS System even though this car is a North America Limited trim car which i thought it is a must.. it has the immboliser system so the device on the left i think is related to the immboliser system (correct me if wrong).


the Other right one is the 4wd system but i can see that the wires has been played with .. while the car in the Gulf city , the owner added a system or a transmitter kind of device to communicate with the speed as well as the penalty system through radar signal .. maybe the long black wrapped wire you see in the picture 2 is to that system.

in picture one there are two circuit if i can name them with no wires at all. can anyone with the same trim confirm the same ? what they are for?

in the third picture, you can see the wires of the two modules and if they have been missed with as i can see some pins are empty

fourth picture shows a wrapped something hard to touch (i don't know how to name it but i hope it is clear enough for you). is that what you all guys have in your cars?
 

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Here's some info from my '06 4WD limited in no particular order.

My airbag error light cycles on when I first turn the key on before starting. It's located right below the CE light.
The TPMS one does too. It's above the CE and oil lights and next to the "3" on the tachometer.

The module on the left in the pictures is the TPMS ECU. You can confirm it by unplugging it. Will make the TPMS error light come on.

The one on the right is the 4WD ECU. Not all pins on either module are used.
Neither module has anything to do with either the airbag or immobilizer.

Obviously I don't know what the extra wires are for but my first step would be to disconnect them if I suspected they were causing any issues.

The two white plugs in the lower right are unused and definitely don't connect to either ECU.

It's VERY common to get codes with no dash error lights. They may indicate a pending issue or could just be one time anomalies. The first step is to erase them and see if any come back. Can use the 8-tap method, techstream or a scanner.

The OBDII system is only for emissions related monitoring which none of this is, thus no CE light or codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input . Can i unplug them while the key turn into ON position or before that? .. can you show me how to erase them using the 8 method.

Another point .. reading about the steering angle sensor zero point i came across using the pin 4 with pin 12 not 13 to erase and re-set .. so maybe the related pins for ABS and VCS are 4 and 12 .. what do you think?

Update: I unplugged the right module and turn on the key .. no light of TPMS .. run the car for 2 minutes and go forward and backward with no light of Tpms.
Same procedure with the 4wd .. turn the key on .. no light of 4wd was on the dash panel as usual .. run the car no codes .. no light of anything .. drive the car forward and backward some meters no light on the dash of anything ..

i didnt press the button of the 4wd while drive .. was that required?

I took photoes of the two fuse blocks of the driver and passenger side. The passenger side fuse block is almost empty!!! Please see the attached pictures.
 

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This coil of wire looks like an XM radio antenna wire or possibly a GPS antenna wire. Do you have one of these antennas stuck to the roof or the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This coil of wire looks like an XM radio antenna wire or possibly a GPS antenna wire. Do you have one of these antennas stuck to the roof or the dash?
If you are talking about the long wrapped black wire .. it is a transmitter kind of system in Gulf countries for penalty system.

I also attached a picture of dash lights when the key is at the ON position.. i think there are some missing lights due to the manual dash picture sample.
 

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.. can you show me how to erase them using the 8 method.

Another point .. reading about the steering angle sensor zero point i came across using the pin 4 with pin 12 not 13 to erase and re-set .. so maybe the related pins for ABS and VCS are 4 and 12 .. what do you think?

Update: I unplugged the right module and turn on the key .. no light of TPMS .. run the car for 2 minutes and go forward and backward with no light of Tpms.
Same procedure with the 4wd .. turn the key on .. no light of 4wd was on the dash panel as usual .. run the car no codes .. no light of anything .. drive the car forward and backward some meters no light on the dash of anything ..
You erase the codes by installing the jumper the same way you read them, then turning the key on and immediately tapping the brake pedal 8 times.
I wouldn't do anything else about the steering angle sensor especially trying to use a jumper to other pins. That may break something that wasn't broke.
For the TPMS test you'd unplug the left module not the right at you said.
I don't believe unplugging the 4WD ECU turns any lights on.

BTW, what was the original problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You erase the codes by installing the jumper the same way you read them, then turning the key on and immediately tapping the brake pedal 8 times.
I wouldn't do anything else about the steering angle sensor especially trying to use a jumper to other pins. That may break something that wasn't broke.
For the TPMS test you'd unplug the left module not the right at you said.
I don't believe unplugging the 4WD ECU turns any lights on.

BTW, what was the original problem?
sorry, it's my mistake i do unplugged the left module for it but i expected not to see any lamp because the tires didn't have any of TPMS sensors and that's why i thought this module is immboliser or something else.

i did unplugged the two modules together and walk the car for some meters with no lights but i forgot to press the button to see what the car respond would be.

i talked to a friend who is mechanically inclined and he said unplug the 4wd will not throw any code or light at the dash as you just eliminate the whole system which is considered as A separate/independent system.:shrug:

can you Dr. Dyno give the two fuses picture above a look. comparing mine to the attached one below i can see a difference. i marked the parts in the below picture that i don't have in mine ..maybe the below one is a fuse box for a v6 or 2 wd .. can anyone confirm what are these?. this picture i took from one of Mr. JuneBug's thread regarding the 4wd, vsc and check engine lights.

the Original problem was and still is there is no airbag light whatsoever in my dash when turning the key to ON position. i will give the fuse box under the steering a look when getting home.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: i did the 8 method and erase the dash lights then waited for 2 minutes and do the jumper test and the only pattern light remains is the P/S light giving number 41 .. the rest of the lights ABS, VSC and 4WD were flashing normally no more pattern flashing (thanks Dr Dyno for the info).. i noticed the oil and a/t temp and some other lights remain on without flashing at all Is that normal?.

I opened the fuse boxes to see if some missing by comparing what written in the plastic of the box and the actuall fuses .. i have attached two pictures of the plastic fuse boxes.

The first one is the driver side plastic fuse box and the missing are:
- ETCS 7.5 A

- A/F 20 A

the second one is the passenger side plastic fuse box and the missing are a lot!!!

- DIM

- PTC NO 1

- PTC NO 2

- DEICER

- STR LOC 20A

- TOWING 30A

- STV HTR 25A

- DEICER 20A

- PTC1 50A

- PTC2 50A

- H-LP CLN 30A

As we can see some main fuses as PTC NO 1&2 missed as well as their fuses ampers .. the same for the DEICER.

Anyone has the same year and trim may chime in and share.

Thoughts are much appreciated.
 

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Yes some of the dash lights stay on just as they do w/o the jumper.

Checked my underhood fuse boxes.

My fuses match yours almost exactly. Many are missing due to options neither one of us have such as deicer and towing. Exceptions below.
My relays were different in places maybe because mine is a V6.

Driver's side: I have a 20A A/F fuse yours doesn't.

Passenger side: I have a 7.5A next to the lonesome one of yours and a 15A between it and the 30A. (Your diagram doesn't call for either the second 7.5 or the 15.)

As a test I removed all three fuses and checked my dash lights. Both my TPMS and airbag lights still lit at key-on.

Conclusions:
We have a whole thread on turning off the TPMS error light so owners can run w/o sensors, and AFAIK no one has figured out how to do it w/o disconnecting the ECU and either shorting or resistoring the plug.
Your left module is definitely for TPMS but you have no TPMS light even on key-on. That and the other mods on your RAV4's electrical systems leads me to believe someone has modified it so both the TPMS and airbag error lights are defeated.
The only question that remains is does the SRS airbag system actually still work. Since you aren't getting any codes to the contrary we have to assume it is.
 

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At this point what makes the most sense is contacting the previous owner to find out what modifications have been done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Today i made the p/s clear procedure according to the service manual and unfortunately the p/s pattern u0105/41 still remains which according to the service manual it is a lost communication with fuel injector control module.... area to examine is either CAN communication control or ECM .. im thinking of taking the connectors of the ECM apart and blow them with air and see if there is any problem with the wires what do you think? :confused:

Can't reach the owner because the car came from Dubai.

Even the dealership where the whole history of the car was serviced in their facility (i saw the history in toyota owners) refused to send me weather the car was serviced the major recalls and tsbs or no :shrug:

I took the car to a car electrcian to examine the airbag fuses but he had no clues and said i
can do nothing.

For the fuse a/ f 20 amp. What is it for?

I think it is time to visit the toyota dealership to make total test as i no longer know if the 4wd system is working or no .. its light and button is working but i cant tell if it is really working.

I noticed after clearing the ABS VSC codes with 8 method... the car performance is better.
 

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.......Even the dealership where the whole history of the car was serviced in their facility (i saw the history in toyota owners) refused to send me weather the car was serviced the major recalls and tsbs or no :shrug:.......

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Not sure I understand....can you access your vehicle on Toyota . com / owners using the vin? If so, I see no reason that info wouldn't be there.
 

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Not sure I understand....can you access your vehicle on Toyota . com / owners using the vin? If so, I see no reason that info wouldn't be there.
There is nothing in the history about the main problems with the year 2006 of oil consumbtion and the EPS column or shaft thud ..etc. the reason for asking them, the last almost three years of the history is not mentioned!!!
 

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Can't reach the owner because the car came from Dubai.

I took the car to a car electrician to examine the airbag fuses but he had no clues and said I can do nothing.

For the fuse a/ f 20 amp. What is it for?

I think it is time to visit the Toyota dealership to make total test as i no longer know if the 4wd system is working or no .. its light and button is working but i cant tell if it is really working.
With what we've seen so far and w/o ANY electrical history on this car if I was the that electrician I'd throw up my hands and give up too. Even if I had the schematics I'd have to spend hours determining what modifications had been done. And to what point?

If there are no issues with how the car drives why care about the U0105/41 error or the A/F fuse?

It's easy to test the 4WD. From a stop on a dirt road floor the pedal on the right for a second. If the car jumps forward leaving four marks in the dirt it's working. If the car doesn't move and just spins the front wheels it isn't.

I expect all the dealer's "total test" will amount to is reading the same codes you did.
 

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the car is running fine except one thing ... I noticed a faint tick in the steering wheel whenever i turn the wheel from center position to slightly any direction right/left while at a stop position or when idling the car. but to the right direction it always made the tick sound.

When come to a stop ,let's say parking lot when forwarding and reversing to line a car is a must, i hear a thud noise from the wheel and feel it.

Reading about the oil treatment ,some successfully getting rid of this problem using it, i did put the oil treatment and telescope and tilt the wheel several times but getting the sound worse and louder.

Disappointed from the result, i went to a mechanic asking him to get under car and hear the thud noise source to determine is it an intermediate shaft or the column?. the mechanic can't hear the thud due to the engine noise. coming up and turn the engine off and asked me to shake the wheel several times to the right/left positions while he is from under the car hearing. while moving the wheel ( which i understand afterwards through reading is wrong of possibility damaging the spring cable or something) the mechanic did something made the wheel throbbed. maybe he tried to change the direction of the housing tube ring which contained the inner tie rods with the column linkage ( i mean the fasten ring direction as if he pulled it to another side)

i don't know what he was thinking of something stuck there and by pulling the ring and change its direction he might released the stuck material.

by his movement i knew he has no clue with the EPS system so i ran away with minimum damage if any.

I didn't mention this before because the service manual is giving a different area to examine and an electric kind of lost communication with injector fuel control system (i can't see what the linkage between the injectors and the p/s malfunction code?)

Regarding the 4wd system, yesterday i came to a full stop on a dirt (sandy+stony) Road. i put the car in d applying the 4wd button and floor the pedal half way , and the car moved throwing little stones behind from the rear wheels.
 

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The 4WD system is working fine as determined by my test procedure. That'll be $50 USD please. :wink

The other noise is the infamous steering clunk that can be improved with an oil injection or fixed by buying a Lexus. I've chosen to ignore ours so neither my wife nor I hear it anymore. It has nothing to do with any codes.
Anyone need a bottle of Rem oil?
 

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Wow your price is too far less than the dealer Dr. Dyno :smile

If i didn't apply the 4wd button, per the manual , it should also make it as the 4wd ingaged from any stop point. Right?
 

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Wow your price is too far less than the dealer Dr. Dyno :smile

If i didn't apply the 4wd button, per the manual , it should also make it as the 4wd engaged from any stop point. Right?
Yes, we're all about saving members $$$ here. :thumbs_up:

And for only another $10 :wink:, yes the LOCK button will make little ($5) or no ($5) difference on takeoff.
 
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