Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

Just got my first RAV4, 1999, 4WD 5 door. I'm the 5th owner and it has 93000 miles.

It needs all 4 tires (buying General Altimax RT43)
- I have changed oil and front brakes right-away.

Now it makes noise and some hard knocks in suspension when I drive, so I have to change all 4 shocks. Could you tell me please what shocks/struts I have to buy? Mechanic told me if I bring a complete set (struts, coils) he will take just $120 to change all of them.

Also looking to flush antifreeze. What is the best antifreeze for this car?

Also if anybody can tell me what else should I change/fix in the car before make it my daily ride?

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,117 Posts
Monroes are what I use for shocks (rear) and struts (front).

Rockauto.com for most all non-OEM parts.

I use regular Prestone, etc. antifreeze in these.

Do some reading here about maintenance needs, e.g., plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, fuel filter (underhood; tricky), etc. Change them all.

Judge the condition of the transmission fluid, and replace it and the trans filter if needed. A _special_, OEM fluid is needed for these AWD transmissions. The OEM fluid is not cherry-red like regular DEXRON, but has a red/brown color; smell/feel the old to see if burnt, etc.

Change the rear differential's and the transfer case's fluids. The transfer case's dipstick/fill point is a tube that is oddly placed down low, almost horizontal, behind the rear of the right front tire.

Brake fluid need flushing? If so, read my post on here about doing it.

Plenty more too ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,117 Posts
P.S. Add an extra ground wire, from the negative battery terminal to the engine block, as described here on the site.

And, of course, check all your lights and likely replace all three wiper blades.

Consider replacing the upstream O2 sensor now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you!

Just have ordered set of struts/shocks, O2 sensor, plugs/plugs wires/ PVC Valve, Fuel filter, antifreeze from that website. I have already changed air filter and wiper blades. Transmission fluid looks clean and doesn't smell. Also bought RAINX windshield fluid, absolutely love it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Can you help me please? I cleaned throttle body and changed IAC Valve but when engine is hot and car is idling RPM poinyer goes to 1600-1800 and stays there, sometimes it goes back to 900 but most of the time it?s up until I shut engine down and it cools down. It was happening with an old IAC too. Have no idea where to look for a problem. Thanks in advance
 

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
Can you help me please? I cleaned throttle body and changed IAC Valve but when engine is hot and car is idling RPM poinyer goes to 1600-1800 and stays there, sometimes it goes back to 900 but most of the time it?s up until I shut engine down and it cools down. It was happening with an old IAC too. Have no idea where to look for a problem. Thanks in advance
Check your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), your throttle cable, and IAC valve. Check your vacuum lines, vacuum leaks will cause high idle. If your vacuum lies are hard, cracked, or leaking replace them all with silicone lines, a cheap repair. Difficult to get to some of the vacuum lines. Vacuum lines will cause all sorts of issues. Remove and replace as you go, don't disconnect a bunch at once or you will have problems. http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/255961-vacuum-line-replacement-high-temp-silicone-lines.html

On these old girls all soft hoses and belts should be replaced. These include the transmission cooling hoses (http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/245377-making-your-own-manual-transaxle-cooling-hoses.html), all coolant hoses (did you know that there are coolant hoses under the exhaust manifold), fuel lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, window washer lines, and fuel filler hose.

If you are going to mess with the timing belt get a water pump timing belt kit that does it all.

Always have some dielectric grease on hand anytime you change bulbs, fuses, battery cables, electrical connectors, etc. Clean your ground points and apply some there too.

Do the engine/tranny grounding mod to keep her happy and keep the electrical system healthy, the steps are spelled out in the following link. http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/247418-now-alternator-kaput.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Check your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), your throttle cable, and IAC valve. Check your vacuum lines, vacuum leaks will cause high idle. If your vacuum lies are hard, cracked, or leaking replace them all with silicone lines, a cheap repair. Difficult to get to some of the vacuum lines. Vacuum lines will cause all sorts of issues. Remove and replace as you go, don't disconnect a bunch at once or you will have problems. http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/255961-vacuum-line-replacement-high-temp-silicone-lines.html

On these old girls all soft hoses and belts should be replaced. These include the transmission cooling hoses (http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/245377-making-your-own-manual-transaxle-cooling-hoses.html), all coolant hoses (did you know that there are coolant hoses under the exhaust manifold), fuel lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, window washer lines, and fuel filler hose.

If you are going to mess with the timing belt get a water pump timing belt kit that does it all.

Always have some dielectric grease on hand anytime you change bulbs, fuses, battery cables, electrical connectors, etc. Clean your ground points and apply some there too.

Do the engine/tranny grounding mod to keep her happy and keep the electrical system healthy, the steps are spelled out in the following link. http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/247418-now-alternator-kaput.html
Thank you very much!
 

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
Another point, owning a 20 year old car will put you in the poor house if you take to a mechanic for every problem, you should pick up some tools and start doing most of the work yourself. Checkout YouTube for some very helpful videos. I often watch Scotty Kilmer https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA good information and he's a bit of a character. Get an OBDII Bluetooth reader and you can troubleshoot with the best of them. By the way one code can be many different things so don't throw cash at her, diagnose before spending.

Amazon, RockAuto, eBay, and many others are your friend, they can save you hundreds of dollars on repairs. A word of warning, they sometimes have the wrong parts listed. Go to a Toyota supplier like Village Toyota (https://parts.villagetoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=362557&ukey_make=1021&ukey_model=14422&modelYear=1999&ukey_driveLine=6022&ukey_trimLevel=13989&searchString=rear axle) to get your part numbers and then cross reference the parts before buying.

A thorough inspection is in order, thoroughly inspect the following
1) Brake and fuel lines, see my thread http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/210626-brake-line-corrosion.html
2) Brake pads and shoes
3) Brake master cylinder
4) All the soft bits like hoses and belts like I spelled out before
5) Change all the fluids
-- Brake fluid, yes this one is often overlooked but it should be replaced every 2 to 3 years, it gets acidic with age and will damage your brake system
-- Differential - change that nasty gear oil and while you are there look to see if you have any leeks coming from around the rear seal, the axle shafts, and drive shaft
-- Power steering - these old girls don't like power steering fluid they use ATF Dexron II/III look around you will find a useful thread her on how to purge and change the fluid
-- Transaxle
-- Coolant, don't waste your money on the 5 year stuff, it gets acidic after three years and should be replaced anyway. Get a good coolant and you won't have to worry about all those additives.
-- And of course engine oil, I highly recommend Mobile One I've put over 800,000 miles on cars using it and I swear by it, keeps the engine cooler and cleaner. Don't listen to the old wives tale that synthetics will make an old engine leak, it's just not true.
6) If you don't know when that timing belt was last changed, get a water pump timing belt kit and get to it
7) Check your grounds, reground the engine and tranny as I pointed out earlier
8) Inspect the exhaust system, look for cracks, holes, missing parts, crimped pipes, etc
10) Tune up
-- Spark plugs, I recommend NGK # 3764 Iridium Spark Plugs -- BKR6EIX-11
-- Set of spark plug/ignition wires
-- Remove and clean the throttle body
-- Clean the EGR system
-- New PCV valve if you don't know when it was last replaced
-- Clean the fuel injectors, see http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/256177-how-clean-fuel-injectors-your-car.html

Then personalize her, as you can see from my RAV4 pics I took personalization to a whole new level.

Not wanting to scare you, but taking care of these things will go a long way to keep the old girl on the road and out of the shop. And you don't have to do it all at once, most of us have a budget do a little every month until it's done. If you do it yourself you will have a great reliable mud kicker that you know what;'s been done and you have the pride of doing it yourself.

Finally, go to the profile page and fill it in, post some pictures, in your signature block tell us what you have so when you post we know your RAV4.

Start a thread for your RAV4 showing all that you do to keep her up and to personalize her. I start a new thread for every project but I usually link them back to a main thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Another point, owning a 20 year old car will put you in the poor house if you take to a mechanic for every problem, you should pick up some tools and start doing most of the work yourself. Checkout YouTube for some very helpful videos. I often watch Scotty Kilmer good information and he's a bit of a character. Get an OBDII Bluetooth reader and you can troubleshoot with the best of them. By the way one code can be many different things so don't throw cash at her, diagnose before spending.

Amazon, RockAuto, eBay, and many others are your friend...
Thank you! I really appreciate your advices. The main problem for me is I don't have a garage. I like to work with cars but I don't have the place to do that and now it's getting cold. I have a good mechanic, for example he helped me today with a vacuum leak (the one that affected idling) and didn't take a cent for it. Next week I'm taking my lady to him to change links in front and rear suspension, gonna cost me $200 with parts and labor.
 

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
Oh I forgot to mention, struts and shocks usually don't make knocking or banging sounds, well maybe if they are completely broke but then it probably wouldn't be drivable. Most often I have found loud knocks to be worn out/broken engine, transmission, and differential carrier mounts. You need to check them quickly, driving a car with a broken mount will stress your transaxle, driveshaft, differential, CV Axles, and rear axles to name a few. Other things to look at are ball joints and sway brace end links.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Oh I forgot to mention, struts and shocks usually don't make knocking or banging sounds, well maybe if they are completely broke but then it probably wouldn't be drivable. Most often I have found loud knocks to be worn out/broken engine, transmission, and differential carrier mounts. You need to check them quickly, driving a car with a broken mount will stress your transaxle, driveshaft, differential, CV Axles, and rear axles to name a few. Other things to look at are ball joints and sway brace end links.
Thank you! I really appreciate your help! The problem is I don't have a garage or place to take care of my car. I have a good mechanic he helped me with a vacuum leak today (that problem with idling) and didn't take a cent. Next wekk I'm taking my car to change links in front and rear suspension for $200 with labor. That what o was told regarding that knock sound from suspension ( I have replaced struts/shocks last week).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I just bought my RAV4 as well. Mine has many more miles than yours (220k) but I checked the suspension before buying it and it is solid and has been replaced within the last 50k miles. I was driving and would hear an intermittent knocking sound in the rear, upon closer inspection, I noticed that both bump stops are loose and kinda of bouncing around within the rear coil springs. This was this source of my noise. May be worth checking out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I just bought my RAV4 as well. Mine has many more miles than yours (220k) but I checked the suspension before buying it and it is solid and has been replaced within the last 50k miles. I was driving and would hear an intermittent knocking sound in the rear, upon closer inspection, I noticed that both bump stops are loose and kinda of bouncing around within the rear coil springs. This was this source of my noise. May be worth checking out.

Thanks, will check later cause it still knocks after links change.

By the way, I found out why my car sometimes idles high, thanks to OBD 2 scanner, when it idles high Coolant temperature measured as 42-57 degrees, as soon as it gets back to 190 degrees idling gets to normal ~700 rpm

Although my mechanic has changed that sensor couple days ago and when I called him an hour ago he said that sensor doesn’t synchronize correctly so I have bought a new one and now my car is waiting for it to be installed.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top