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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)



Parts fit nicely.

Quiet.

The original exhaust is in great shape except the flanges rotted off.
(I just learned that replacement clamp on and weld on flanges exist... too late as I already replaced the full exhaust).:frown


Bolts needed for manifold to front pipe are 10mm X 1.5mm with spring

Bolts for muffler to resonator pipe also10mm X 1.5mm

Pipe Clamp in middle is 2 -1/4" where resonator pipe slips into converter pipe.

Copper anti-sieze on the hardware should give it a little extra life and white lithium in the hanger rubbers helps install.

Reference:

http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/resultsDiagramDisplay.do?diagramNumber=13_04197&catalogCode=walkerexhaustasset&locale=en&loadStatus=ACTIVE


Front Pipe 53454
Converter 54848
Resonator 55489
Muffler 54331
 

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Great, just what I was looking for. I was just about to ask if anyone replace their exhaust system with the Walker brand. Since you've completed the job already, I got some questions for you.

Did you use clamp to connect the converter pipe to the resonator or did you weld it together?
Was it hard to remove the rusted bolts from the front pipe?
I've heard that after market converter can sometime throw out CEL. Did you enconter any CEL?


I just bought a 2005 Rav4 5-speed with 147K miles for $3,600. Couldn't pass up the deal. As I can see, it'll need new tires or wheel bearings since there is a slight hum. Also, it will need a new converter after the front pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Glad to help!

- I simply clamped the converter pipe to the resonator pipe. If you re-use either one of the originals, you may need to flare it or weld. All of the Walker stuff fit together with itself like Lego.

- Take your time with the front pipe to manifold. Don't break the bolts. If you live where they salt the roads in winter, this advice is more important. If you are in a place like Arizona, no big worries. Have a look at the bolts and threads. Wire brush any rust or dirt. Spray with penetrating oil. If your bolts are bad, spray them daily for a few days before you try to remove. Firmly tapping/smacking the head of the bolt with a hammer before removing can sometimes break corrosion. Also spraying penetrating oil on a hot bolt after a ride can shock it and break corrosion.

No CEL alert. You can easily get a $30 code reader and clear the alarm. They are good to have.
 

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Thanks. I will probably get a pipe expander at Harbor Freights Tool since it's cheap since I don't need the resonator pipe . Plus I already have a welder.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
DO NOT BUY!

CHEAP FAKE CHINESE METAL

I HAVE HAD THIS ON MY CAR FOR ONLY ONE YEAR AND THE WHOLE THING IS ROTTING!... NOT SURFACE RUST BUT BIG CHUNKY FLAKES THAT CAN BE PULLED OFF WITH JUST FINGERS.

CHINA IS EXPERT AT MAKING FAKE CHEAP UNSAFE JUNK

WALKER EXHAUST IS CRAP

DO NOT BUY
 

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I have to replace my converter section but since I live in NY I need CARB compliant parts which cost a lot more than just Federal.
 
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