Hello. I would like to share some of the photos on the installation of my PVC K&N breather filter. I used to have a plastic tube vent out directly to atmosphere. After sometime I found some road dirt and garbage accumulating inside the clear tube. The symptom was telling me two things, the oil mist coming out from the valve and the vacuum function. The advantage of this modification is to prevent the throttle-body accumulate oil and oil mist re-enter the system. Enjoy.
This modification is illegal in the US as well. Modifying the factory emission control system is a big no no in the states. Also, in IMO, this is not a good modification to make to a street driven vehicle.
Did you gut the PCV valve, or are the internals still there?
Personally, I do not like venting the PCV to atmosphere.
Here's why:
1) At idle, vapors venting in engine bay have a distinct odor, which can make their way into the passenger compartment.
2) Having the PCV routed correctly, just after the TB allows a vaccuum to occur within the cylinder head, which helps remove the blow by gases and helps with piston ring sealing at idle.
3) If the PCV valve is just left on the head, with the internals intact, it could impede the ability for the head to ventilate the blow by gases, therefore causing problems down the road, such as other seals leaking, etc.
If your concern is only with the oil vapors re-entering the intake track and gumming up crap, then you should install a catch can IMO. This will allow you to collect the oil vapors there, but still retain the proper function of the factory PCV system.
This modification is illegal in the US as well. Modifying the factory emission control system is a big no no in the states. Also, in IMO, this is not a good modification to make to a street driven vehicle.
Did you gut the PCV valve, or are the internals still there?
Personally, I do not like venting the PCV to atmosphere.
Here's why:
1) At idle, vapors venting in engine bay have a distinct odor, which can make their way into the passenger compartment.
2) Having the PCV routed correctly, just after the TB allows a vaccuum to occur within the cylinder head, which helps remove the blow by gases and helps with piston ring sealing at idle.
3) If the PCV valve is just left on the head, with the internals intact, it could impede the ability for the head to ventilate the blow by gases, therefore causing problems down the road, such as other seals leaking, etc.
If your concern is only with the oil vapors re-entering the intake track and gumming up crap, then you should install a catch can IMO. This will allow you to collect the oil vapors there, but still retain the proper function of the factory PCV system.
Perhaps you should study how PCV on the Rav 2AZ-FE engine. Ah, catch-can, been there, done that but was on a force induction, still suck back right in. Catch-can isn’t guarantee to filter 100% of the oil mist.
(1) This might apply if you have a diesel engine
(2) We all know not to idle the engine for lengthy period(it said on the manual), so why this help on idling?
(3) heh? Are you trying to say ‘if the PCV failed then some kind of seals will leak OIL?
Prove me any engine with the PCV designed has no maintenance issues.
This mod is not for everyone unless you understand PCV.
Perhaps you should study how PCV on the Rav 2AZ-FE engine. Ah, catch-can, been there, done that but was on a force induction, still suck back right in. Catch-can isn’t guarantee to filter 100% of the oil mist.
(1) This might apply if you have a diesel engine
(2) We all know not to idle the engine for lengthy period(it said on the manual), so why this help on idling?
(3) heh? Are you trying to say ‘if the PCV failed then some kind of seals will leak OIL?
Prove me any engine with the PCV designed has no maintenance issues.
This mod is not for everyone unless you understand PCV.
I do understand how a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system works. Its actually quite simple. Catch cans DO work, provided they are installed and designed correctly. Yes, they may not remove 100 % of the oil mist vapors, but a good CC will remove almost all of them. A catch can will remove enough blow by gases to alleviate concerns of gumming up the intake tract and having the oil collect.
Venting the PCV valve to atmosphere is exactly what it sounds like. Venting the PCV to atmosphere, so if you are venting blow by gases to atmosphere (into your engine bay) those gases can find there way into the passenger compartment. This doesn't only apply to diesels. I've personally experienced this on a gas engine. By the way, blow by gases wreak!
Having the PCV valve routed correctly, past the TB, provides a vacuum to the valve cover with a varying control of flow, which helps remove blow by gases from the cylinder head. This allows the engine to work "easier" as the motor doesn't have to "push" the vapors from the head. This vacuum is mostly beneficial at idle, but has benefits no matter the rpm of the motor.
While I am not going to try to find a documented case of an engine failure caused by this modification, as its not worth it, the possibility of casusing problems exists, just like any modifications, you've weighed the pros and cons and made your decision. Lets hope its a good one.
Finally, yes it is very possible that if the PCV failed you could have other problems such as blow seals elsewhere. This is something that could occur regardless of whether or not the PCV is routed correctly or not. The motor wants to rid itself of the vapors, so if its route becomes blocked it will seak another way out. This is why I suggested gutting, or removing the PCV valve entirely if you are going to keep this modification as it will give your motor less restriction to push out the vapors and is one less part that could plug up over time.
Either way, I'm simply providing my educated opinion on this modification so other people can see both sides.
Good luck with your mod, your Rav4 is now part race car, haha!
I have OEM aluminum rims and I am currently running Goodyear Ice Radials at 235/65r16 and I am wondering if I could fit one of the above-mentioned tire sizes?
Well, look at what i've found:
Didn't realize that these cars came with what looks like OEM HID's but also headlight levelling. You can see the ballast at the bottom of the headlight.
Anybody have any experience finding a set of these from Japan? they're awfully expensive from what i've read...
Hey guys.
I’m hoping to do some modifications. I’m hoping to get the best bang for my buck, so I’m trying to decide whether I should do a 3SGTE swap, supercharge the stock 2AZ or turbocharge the stock 2AZ. What does everyone think?
Hello all,
This post is a place saver for a detailed build thread with pictures of my Rav4 lifted on Old Man Emu Springs and the 30mm Tema 4x4 lift kit.
The attached picture is with 235/60/16 tires.
Many more details to come.
-Grathlong
At 180k miles, it's probably high time I do something with the original suspension components. Especially since I don't plan on parting ways with the Rav for quite a while. If / When it dies, a 2.4 L 2AZ-FE swap is being considered. With that said, here is the list of replacement parts I have...
