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Any suggestions on how to keep my paint from fading into white spots and lasting longer? I’m not sure how I can maintain it, since I don't have a garage. It might just be me, but it feels like wax has somehow seemed to make dark cars cook better in our Texas sun. Not sure if it helps, but I've switched to using this rainX stuff with beads in it, rather than waxing.. .probably a marketing gimmick~

I really wasn't going to get a black car, but every dealership I went to didn't have many to choose from (and couldn't find any sport or limited trims in the colors that I wanted in our entire 5 state area! - saying that no one would trade, cause they'd rather keep and sell them.)

Black is a really nice color though (same is my past car – that faded!)..

=(
 

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One word - Zaino. Relatively expensive, 1st application can be labor intensive, but well worth the money and the effort. Subsequent applications are easy. Not sold in stores, must be purchased on website - Zaino.com

OC
 

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Newbie here...thanks for the great site.

I brought my beautiful new baby home Friday night. She is a 2006 V6 4WD Limited nautical blue. I'm a longtime Toyota owner, but first time RAV4 owner.

I am overwhelmed by how beautiful the paint job looked when we first picked it up. I see lots of great suggestions here and in some other threads about various wax/sealant products, all of which is new to me. Even if I learn how to do this correctly, I am afraid I will not have the time to continue waxing/polishing often enough to keep the car looking like it does now and I don't want to nag my husband into doing it for me. Is it possible to have the appropriate things done at a carwash/detailer or whatever you call it? Would it be better to go to them from the beginning (i.e. now), or could I use them only when I am hard up for time? How do I find/choose such a place? Are there things I should look for or avoid in choosing someone to do this type of thing? Is it going to cost me an arm and a leg?

Thanks for any suggestions you can provide.
 

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Inlets -

Zaino is a sealant - no wax, no abrasives. If you're just starting out, with a new vehicle, get the Z-1 prep, you should use this first before you do the sealant. Just put it on after you have washed, and leave it on. You take it off after you put the sealant over it. Also get the Z-2 Pro, that's your topcoat sealant, and most important item you will get from Zaino. I would also suggest the Z-6 spray which is good for cleaning up when dusty, to remove waterspots or just to do a quick spray & wipe in about 15 minutes. The ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator (expensive) is not necessary unless you plan on doing one coat over another right away with the Z-2.
So get:
- Z-1
- Z-2 Pro
- Z-6 Spray (optional)
Just follow written directions and it's easy to work with.

Zaino car wash detergent also works nice - helps renew Z-2 finish but not necessary. Any further questions just drop me a PM! :wink:

OC
 
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New zaino user here... I had the same concerns. I have a garage but while I'm at work, my RAV sits in the Hawaiian sun.

Actually, you no longer need Z-1. You just mix the ZFX with Z-2Pro.

My process was,

Washed new RAV w/ Dawn soap
dry
Apply z-2pro w/ zfx
Remove
apply z-6 spray
apply 2nd coat z-2pro w/ zfx
remove
apply z-6 spray

this first process took awhile but the results were great and 3 weeks later its held up great. I'm hoping to just continue w/ a simple wash every few weeks and just reapply zaino every 3-6 months. Give it a shot!
 

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What exactly are people trying to prevent by applying the expensive Zaino in comparison to using something like Meguiars Gold?
 
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Go to meguires.com There products are the best and offer results that in my opinion are better than the Zaino products and can be pruchased at your local NAPA or other auto parts store. Go to their forums and ask questions. I owned a black Tahoe and the paint was as smooth as glass thanks to megs. Follow a process the guys kin the forum recommend. You will not be disappointed.
 

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Meguiars, Klasse, Mothers, Liquid Glass, Zymol, all good products, and some will show a depth in shine comparable to Zaino. I prefer Zaino for it's durability, nothing lasts as long and there are tests that have compared them. Whether they're subjective or not, who knows, but from experience, I haven't come across a product that outlasts Zaino. Go to the www.ZainoStore.com site and see the results in the Wax Test and Guru reports. These are not just advertisements for Zaino on their site, but can also be found elsewhere on the web.

Zaino is not for everyone, it can't be bought over the counter in auto or department stores and it's expensive. But if you like Meguiar's you'll LOVE Zaino! 8)

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The one thing I've noticed about Zaino is that water beads much longer than other products I've used. It's been raining on and off here in San Diego for the past few weeks and I've had very little rain spots, mostly just what settles on the spare cover and rear bumper. I spritz on a bit of Z6 and wipe off the spots and good to go.
 

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Hmmmm just wondering why people want their water to bead. Seems to me that you wouldn't want the acid rain (lol) or hard municipal water sitting in beads on the car. I would rather see the water sheet off the car.

Sometimes I think a marketing gimmick gets taken for gospel. :D
 

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Well, you want the water to bead so it rolls off easier and doesn't collect on the surface in larger pools. Beading means less surface area contacted by each drop of water -- the opposite would be if the water soaks into your sun-damaged oxidized paint. :wink:
 

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I use Meguiar 3 phase car wax and a clay bar.

1 Black Integra GSR
1 White Honda Accord
1 Silver E430

I wash with car wash
Clay bar once every 2 years
Phase 1 = cleaner (not on the black GSR)
Phase 2 = polish
Phase 3 = sealer wax
 

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karrock said:
Well, you want the water to bead so it rolls off easier and doesn't collect on the surface in larger pools. Beading means less surface area contacted by each drop of water -- the opposite would be if the water soaks into your sun-damaged oxidized paint. :wink:
I'm not a wax guru, but I believe it is a marketing gimmick. If you have a protective layer on the car which sheds the water rather then letting it bead, less water would be in contact with the surface.

The whole beading concept is predicated on the notion that you must have enough water for it to collect and begin to run off. Water that did not bead would run off, so beading would enable more water to stay on the car.
 

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The water would have to bead before it could shed or sheet off cleanly... Less rolling resistance and less chance of streaky residue left over after the water dries, leaving only the contaminants...
 

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puttputt wrote:
The one thing I've noticed about Zaino is that water beads much longer than other products I've used. It's been raining on and off here in San Diego for the past few weeks and I've had very little rain spots, mostly just what settles on the spare cover and rear bumper. I spritz on a bit of Z6 and wipe off the spots and good to go.
Precisely!! The longer the water beads, the longer you have sealant protection. And, as puttputt mentions, makes it easier to clean.

Janos wrote:
Hmmmm just wondering why people want their water to bead. Seems to me that you wouldn't want the acid rain (lol) or hard municipal water sitting in beads on the car. I would rather see the water sheet off the car.

Sometimes I think a marketing gimmick gets taken for gospel. Very Happy
The angle of the water beads is also good measurement of sealant protection on your finish. The greater the angle of water beads with contact point with car finish surface, the greater the sealant protection - or to put it more simply. the rounder the beads at the surface, the greater the protection. If your water beads are flat, or water sheets, "you ain't got no protection" and finish is more susceptibile to UV damage. Also, road debris such as bugs and tar will stick to the surface more readily.

All good sealants provide these qualities.

Zeoth wrote:
I wash with car wash
Clay bar once every 2 years
Phase 1 = cleaner (not on the black GSR)
Phase 2 = polish
Phase 3 = sealer wax
Good combination, and you incuded something that was not mentioned previously - the use of the clay bay - best way to get rid of surface contaminants without scratching, and get your finish as silky smooth as a baby's a_ _. Clay bars have saved me a lot of time & effort in the past - like whenever I run over freshly painted lane marking lines in the road at 4:00 AM!! :oops: :lol:

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karrock said:
The water would have to bead before it could shed or sheet off cleanly... Less rolling resistance and less chance of streaky residue left over after the water dries, leaving only the contaminants...
Sorry Karrock you're proving my point.:) First you have to have enough water to bead. Where as if it didn't bead it would run off immediately. I agree a waxed slick surface would offer lesser rolling resistance. But if there was protection like this that didn't bead it would be better. If it rains and there are beads of water all over your car, the beads collect contaminents that are deposited to the car when the water eventually dries.

The only function of beading is an indicator of a coat of wax and a marketing tool. Beading does not provide a practical advantage to a car getting wet. It is primarily to repel contaminents and sun.
 
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