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Okay...even my local Toyota dealer is stumped. I have a 2.5 year old Toyota battery in my 2011 Rav4 which passes battery test just fine...now here's the thing that is perplexing everyone: My car starts fine and everything is good UNTIL I am at, say, McDonalds and shut my car off to eat (15 minutes). The key is not in the ignition. It's just sitting on the seat. No interior lights are on, etc. When I go to start the car, it's dead (click, click, click). I've gone to tossing my keys out of the car while I eat or answer phone calls, etc. I pick the keys back up off the pavement and my car starts. If I get neglectful, and leave my keys on the seat, my car is dead. Dead. Dead. Click. Nothing is on in the car. This has been going on for months and I am absolutely sure that not one interior light, etc., is on. Have you ever heard of this phenomenon? It's baffled everyone and that's why I joined the forum. I Googled everything I could find and it led me here...HELP.

What is there in a key that would swiftly drain the battery while the engine is off, but the key is in the car. Toss the key out, eat your lunch, and the car starts right up. Key in car seating on seat: car dead.

Now that's a challenge for one of you to solve!

Thank you for reading.
:confused:

PS: I don't know what Trackbacks and my knowledge of forums and threads, etc., is extremely limited. I am 67 and our first family home had "party-lines." We used to listen to our neighbors talking on the phone...kind of like an early form of gathering intelligence!
 

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Okay...even my local Toyota dealer is stumped. I have a 2.5 year old Toyota battery in my 2011 Rav4 which passes battery test just fine...now here's the thing that is perplexing everyone: My car starts fine and everything is good UNTIL I am at, say, McDonalds and shut my car off to eat (15 minutes). The key is not in the ignition. It's just sitting on the seat. No interior lights are on, etc. When I go to start the car, it's dead (click, click, click). I've gone to tossing my keys out of the car while I eat or answer phone calls, etc. I pick the keys back up off the pavement and my car starts. If I get neglectful, and leave my keys on the seat, my car is dead. Dead. Dead. Click. Nothing is on in the car. This has been going on for months and I am absolutely sure that not one interior light, etc., is on. Have you ever heard of this phenomenon? It's baffled everyone and that's why I joined the forum. I Googled everything I could find and it led me here...HELP.



What is there in a key that would swiftly drain the battery while the engine is off, but the key is in the car. Toss the key out, eat your lunch, and the car starts right up. Key in car seating on seat: car dead.



Now that's a challenge for one of you to solve!



Thank you for reading.

:confused:



PS: I don't know what Trackbacks and my knowledge of forums and threads, etc., is extremely limited. I am 67 and our first family home had "party-lines." We used to listen to our neighbors talking on the phone...kind of like an early form of gathering intelligence!


I found the following on google, it kinda makes sense but if that were the case it would happen to everyone and not just you...

"Leaving the device in the car, or even within the proximity communication range, may be detrimental. Quite often, the transmitter and receiver continue to communicate. This may keep the vehicle's controller area network bus and modules awake. That can kill the car's battery. Chances are the remote's battery will be OK. By the way, the doors won't lock if the remote is left inside the car."


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Maybe your remote has some kind of short in it.
Do you have another remote to use for a while to see if it has the same problem?
Also it just might have one of the little buttons pressed in or broken in the on position.
Ott.
 

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Gotta love parasites. If you are sure it may be the remote remove the battery from the remote and use it the old fashioned way for awhile. To drain a battery that fast when off is kind of crazy.
Also look for another mechanic. I would think when the battery is fully charged you should be able to disconnect the ground and use a meter to check for a draw between a body ground and the disconnected cable. Should be a minimum draw. I would think less than 1 volt. But that info should be on line i would think. Also try the leave the keys in the seat at home. If you have a high draw during the meter test you can start pulling fuses untill it stops. Yes it sucks, and you may lose a bunch of settings, but you will find what circuit is drawing too much, or what is not shuting off. Of course i would check with someone that knows for sure. It could just be a bad battery. Good luck.
 

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Okay...even my local Toyota dealer is stumped. I have a 2.5 year old Toyota battery in my 2011 Rav4 which passes battery test just fine...now here's the thing that is perplexing everyone: My car starts fine and everything is good UNTIL I am at, say, McDonalds and shut my car off to eat (15 minutes). The key is not in the ignition. It's just sitting on the seat. No interior lights are on, etc. When I go to start the car, it's dead (click, click, click). I've gone to tossing my keys out of the car while I eat or answer phone calls, etc. I pick the keys back up off the pavement and my car starts. If I get neglectful, and leave my keys on the seat, my car is dead. Dead. Dead. Click. Nothing is on in the car. This has been going on for months and I am absolutely sure that not one interior light, etc., is on. Have you ever heard of this phenomenon? It's baffled everyone and that's why I joined the forum. I Googled everything I could find and it led me here...HELP.

What is there in a key that would swiftly drain the battery while the engine is off, but the key is in the car. Toss the key out, eat your lunch, and the car starts right up. Key in car seating on seat: car dead.

Now that's a challenge for one of you to solve!

Thank you for reading.
:confused:

PS: I don't know what Trackbacks and my knowledge of forums and threads, etc., is extremely limited. I am 67 and our first family home had "party-lines." We used to listen to our neighbors talking on the phone...kind of like an early form of gathering intelligence!
I wouldn't think it would be all that difficult for an intelligent, knowledgeable mechanic to find what's draining the battery at the time in question. Not like it's hit-or-miss, it happens every time.
Also, what does battery "passes test just fine" actually mean? Was it just a voltage test, or did they do a full load test?
When I was a kid, we had a 4-party line with "only" 3 people on it! Today, my wife and I still have flip phones. So there.
 

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Bye the way, Chip, when you say the battery goes dead, Click, click etc, do you have to a boost to start it each time, or does it somehow correct itself by getting the remote out of the car.
Ott.
 

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I agree with ravenuer. This isn't an intermittent. Should be easily traceable unless tracing = guessing.
And since it's nothing I've ever heard of in my 7 years here and coming from a first time poster none of us know, I kinda wonder ... just say'n
 

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Anytime someone mentions a Toyota battery I am suspect. I have yet to have one that made it past two years which is why I don't buy them anymore. They are garbage.
 

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Agree with Dr.Dyno. Also assuming that the battery passes a load test an electrical current draw which drains the battery in 15 minutes should be rather easy to diagnose.
 

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Agree with Dr.Dyno. Also assuming that the battery passes a load test an electrical current draw which drains the battery in 15 minutes should be rather easy to diagnose.
For sure, because what ever it is, it is going to be freakin Hot!
 

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For sure, because what ever it is, it is going to be freakin Hot!
Agreed except if the issue ends up being a loose connection somewhere but a few basic voltage checks would resolve that.

IMO this whole thread has a loose connection to reality anyway. :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for your helpful replies.

- The dealership did not disconnect the ground when I watched them test the battery, so I'm not sure that was a full battery check as one of you indicated. Maybe I'll go to Belle Tire.

- The short in my key and using second key to compare is a great idea. Although I switch keys all the time, I don't know which one it is. I'm going to have to purchase a remote battery charger today so that I can test the theory. My wife has a hybrid Camry, so she can't jump me. If that was the case (that a key is bad) I may have had the good key with me when I was at the dealership! But that's a good place to start my search.

Thanks.
 

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Agreed except if the issue ends up being a loose connection somewhere but a few basic voltage checks would resolve that.

IMO this whole thread has a loose connection to reality anyway. :shrug:

Since you're an electrical engineer, maybe you can explain to someone who isn't how a loose connection could result in a car battery being completely drained in 15 minutes with no apparent load placed upon it . . .Thanks! :confused:
 

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Disconecting the neg terminal with a meter between the neg post and terminal will show draw on the system. There will be a slight draw when all is well. I would think around 1 amp or less. If you get 5 amps or more i would think something is not shuting off. But to drain a battery in 15 minutes i think you would see way higher. If it is a battery with a working amp of 400 or so, not counting CCA, it would have to be outrageous draw. Also could be a loose connection not allowing the charge to return to the battery. After starting and running a/c the battery would drain and not charge, but a light should come on. Parasites suck.
 

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Since you're an electrical engineer, maybe you can explain to someone who isn't how a loose connection could result in a car battery being completely drained in 15 minutes with no apparent load placed upon it . . .Thanks! :confused:
The battery isn't actually drained it just appears to be because of a loose connection. I wouldn't expect that on a newer car but have seen it many times on older ones. A battery terminal or cable gets loose but passes enough current to appear okay. But when the starter, the heaviest draw, tries to engage the voltage goes away giving a clicking noise. Afterward the bad connection my seem okay again.

IMO this whole "problem" is so simple for anyone with half a clue about electricity to diagnose in two minutes I continue to doubt the thread is real.
 

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The battery isn't actually drained it just appears to be because of a loose connection. I wouldn't expect that on a newer car but have seen it many times on older ones. A battery terminal or cable gets loose but passes enough current to appear okay. But when the starter, the heaviest draw, tries to engage the voltage goes away giving a clicking noise. Afterward the bad connection my seem okay again.

IMO this whole "problem" is so simple for anyone with half a clue about electricity to diagnose in two minutes I continue to doubt the thread is real.
I've experienced that "loose connection under a heavy draw" situation but only in a much older car, as you say. What I'm not clear about however, does he have to get a jump each time this happens, or does it just come back on its own? If it does, then you nailed it. If not, then it would have to be a pretty mighty parasitic draw to drain the battery that quickly.
I agree this seems like a pretty simple, easily diagnosed problem. But....??
 

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.. then it would have to be a pretty mighty parasitic draw to drain the battery that quickly.
Yeah, and we'd see the smoke from stuff melting from the East coast! :egad:

Really does make me think this is all smoke & mirrors - w/o the mirrors.
 

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The battery isn't actually drained it just appears to be because of a loose connection. I wouldn't expect that on a newer car but have seen it many times on older ones. A battery terminal or cable gets loose but passes enough current to appear okay. But when the starter, the heaviest draw, tries to engage the voltage goes away giving a clicking noise. Afterward the bad connection my seem okay again.

IMO this whole "problem" is so simple for anyone with half a clue about electricity to diagnose in two minutes I continue to doubt the thread is real.
Thanks - I've also seen that loose connection phenomenon as well in older vehicles. I was assuming that, if this thread is valid, the battery had been load checked and since that usually is done by clamping the tester onto the battery terminal clamps the battery terminal clamps already would have revealed a problem if they were loose.

I'm also wondering about the authenticity of this thread . . . .
 
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