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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I was wondering if there were any mods to let the driver operate ALL power windows while the window lock switch is engaged. I understand that the window lock switch is very useful especially to prevent kids from operating the windows and creating a safety risk. But, why doesn't the design let the driver operate the windows? The driver has access to the lock button, so the design makes it difficult when the driver wants to lower one of the rear windows for example.

Does anyone know about mods that can change the behavior so that the drive can operate all windows irrespective of whether the lock is enabled or not?

Appreciate all inputs. Thanks!
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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This sounds like a very useful mod. I hope RickL will chime in.
 

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I wish I could offer some suggestions, but the wiring diagrams only show the drivers control panel as a box with 12 wires coming out of it. It does not show how the 12 wires interconnect when the various buttons are pushed/pulled.

The other three doors are connected directly to the fuse for each door, so there is always 12 volts at each door switch. My best guess is that the "lock" button removes the ground connection so that these windows will not operate when the local button is operated. Likewise the drivers switches cannot operate these windows either without a connection to ground.

The interesting thing is the diagrams do show the internal switch configurations for the other three doors.
 

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In an effort to discover what happens internally within the master switch (drivers switch), I called upon Uncle Google.

I found this diagram which I know is not exactly like the RAV4, but I believe it is close enough to explain what happens with the LOCK switch on the RAV4. The quality is poor, but it was the closest match I could find.

In this diagram, 12 volts comes from the top left corner (the red line) and feeds all 4 window switches. The ground wire is connected to the bottom of the LOCK switch. In the RAV4, each window switch obtains power from it's own individual fuse, but other than that the principal of operation appears to be the same as the RAV4.

The diagram also appears to be from a right hand drive vehicle. In the diagram the red line shows the current path when the front passenger window (i.e. LH) switch is in the down position.

In the diagram you can see that the LOCK switch breaks/makes the connection to ground. With the ground "open", neither the drivers switch , or individual door switches will work. When you "close" the ground connection, all switches are operational. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to change this without replacing the entire drivers door master switch.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the comments. Looks like there's no easy way other than going the MacGyver route!
 

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Deactivating the 12V line at each door with a 30A relay will be the only way to go. The windows will still operate if there is no 12V going to the door since the power and ground will still be supply by the driver door master switch. Rewire the master switch to supply a ground to the relay only when you turn it on so the relay will energize and supply 12V to the rear door switch. Then bypass the master switch and supply a ground line to the rest of the switch on the driver master panel. That way you can control all the windows with the power windows switch in the OFF position from the driver's control but not the other doors switch. When those 12V relay are on, you can control all the windows from all the switches at all the door.
 

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Deactivating the 12V line at each door with a 30A relay will be the only way to go.......... Rewire the master switch to supply a ground to the relay only when you turn it on so the relay will energize and supply 12V to the rear door switch.
Casper;
Great plan, and probably the only one that would work. Although I'm not sure if the OP is willing to do that much work. I had the impression he was looking for something simpler like "short pin #3 to #5 and your done".

I assume you plan to operate the relay with the existing LOCK switch on the drivers door. I'm not sure if the 2nd contact of the LOCK switch is accessible. I think it is only an internal connection within a sealed unit. An alternative would be to add a new switch somewhere on the dashboard.

irf44z:
Casper's method require that 3 new relays be installed to interrupt the 12 volt supply from each of the fuses that supply power to each of the 3 passenger doors. Perhaps you could locate a 3PST relay and solve the problem with a single relay.
(remember that my drawing from Google only shows a single 12 volt supply for all windows).

I guess it's a matter of how much using the LOCK switch bothers you, and your level of experience with wiring and reading diagrams.

In my case I consider this too much work to do for the small return obtained. Pushing the lock switch occasionally is not a big deal to me.

You should also consider that cutting existing wires and introducing splices and relays, could introduce future problems if the connections are not securely made.

If you wish to continue with Casper's method, I can provide you with the wiring diagrams for the RAV4's power windows..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, Rickl and Casper for the information. I am comfortable with electrical/wiring projects, but I think I'm with you on that it's too much work for the amount of returns. Would you still send me the wiring diagrams for the power windows? It will come useful if I decide to take this project up in the future. Thanks a lot for the great information!!
 

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Rickl : Below are some picture of the Driver master switch. It is pretty easy to disassemble and there is no springly surprises like some other make of switches. Just 3 screws and the whole assembly comes apart in 2 layers. See attached pictures.

Just make sure that you lift up layer straight up and remember to mark where the slide is suppose to be or you will have a fun time putting the switch back together.
 

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Rickl : Below are some picture of the Driver master switch. It is pretty easy to disassemble and there is no springly surprises like some other make of switches. Just 3 screws and the whole assembly comes apart in 2 layers. See attached pictures.

Just make sure that you lift up layer straight up and remember to mark where the slide is suppose to be or you will have a fun time putting the switch back together.
So that's what's inside!:surprise
 

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Rickl : Below are some picture of the Driver master switch. It is pretty easy to disassemble and there is no springly surprises like some other make of switches.

Thanks for the pictures. I was expecting it would have plastic snaps holding it together, which always break when I disassemble them. And like you said I would have expected a dozen pieces of copper falling out onto the floor when I opened it.

I hope you didn't tear apart your own RAV just to get this picture!

irf44z has a copy of the wiring diagrams now, and if he decides to proceed with this, he should be good to go.
 

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Thanks for the pictures. I was expecting it would have plastic snaps holding it together, which always break when I disassemble them. And like you said I would have expected a dozen pieces of copper falling out onto the floor when I opened it.

I hope you didn't tear apart your own RAV just to get this picture!

irf44z has a copy of the wiring diagrams now, and if he decides to proceed with this, he should be good to go.




I was expecting that too but having work in the electronic field for a few decades, I am well aware of what to expect. I pretty much had this car apart one place or another. I used to install custom car audio on the side as well as Remote start and am in the process of replacing the dreaded Toyota OEM RES which refuses to start when the temperature is under -10C. New remote is on the way. Should be here this week.


I took the switch apart before trying to see if I put some back lighting on it. The plan is still in the work. It only took me about 5 mins to take it out and rip apart again then take the pictures.
 
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