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1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
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The 1996-97 and 1998-2000 both have a R/B in this location, but the contents of the boxes are a bit different. My 1998 Rav's relay box (at this location) looks the same except for the colors of some of the relays. For your photo:

The green relay is the Fan No. 1 relay.

Just above the green relay is the MG/C relay, for the air conditioning system.

Just below the green relay is the Fan No. 3 relay.

The relay with Siemens 90080 et cetera on it is the Fan No. 2 relay.

The relay just below the Fan No. 2 relay is the IG2 relay.

To get a copy of the wiring diagram that should have 1998-2000 Rav4 info in it, go to www.rav4world.com/threads/vsv-vacuum-switching-valve-replacement-instructions.162689/page-3 , post #42, and download the diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 1996-97 and 1998-2000 both have a R/B in this location, but the contents of the boxes are a bit different. My 1998 Rav's relay box (at this location) looks the same except for the colors of some of the relays. For your photo:

The green relay is the Fan No. 1 relay.

Just above the green relay is the MG/C relay, for the air conditioning system.

Just below the green relay is the Fan No. 3 relay.

The relay with Siemens 90080 et cetera on it is the Fan No. 2 relay.

The relay just below the Fan No. 2 relay is the IG2 relay.

To get a copy of the wiring diagram that should have 1998-2000 Rav4 info in it, go to www.rav4world.com/threads/vsv-vacuum-switching-valve-replacement-instructions.162689/page-3 , post #42, and download the diagram.
Thanks so much for your assistance!
Do you know if there are any relays missing? There are two slots sans any relays.
It's my daughter's car that simply stopped working and it seems it is a fuel issue, but I cannot find out where the EFI and other related fuel sending relays are located to test them prior to testing the pump itself.
 

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1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
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-- What you have installed in this relay box is the same as what my properly running 1998 Rav4 has installed.

-- For my 1998 Rav4, the inside of the cover shows that the two empty slots are available for a "Dim Relay" (which serves daytime running lights) and "Fog Relay" (serving fog lights?). To my knowledge these features were not available on U. S. Rav4.1s.

-- For help troubleshooting, maybe go to sites.google.com/site/ellessite/ and download the "Starting & Running Problems" guide. Also download the "Relays and Fuses" guide.

-- If you describe the symptoms more, maybe this forum can give you more direction. E.g. does the engine crank but not catch? How old is the battery? Any maintenance done recently? Have you checked for spark?
 

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2010 2.0 VVTi RAV 4
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The power relay, IG! relay, Acc relay and EFI relay are on the rear of the fuse box that sits under the steering wheel.

When you turn the key on, can you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds or so??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
-- If you describe the symptoms more, maybe this forum can give you more direction. E.g. does the engine crank but not catch? How old is the battery? Any maintenance done recently? Have you checked for spark?
Here's what I know:
1) Battery is good.
2) Spark is good.
3) Pump does not audibly prime when key is in pre-start position.
4) Starter turns over the engine as expected.
5) No start.
 

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-- Respectfully to Phil, I do not think the fuel pump primes when the key is in the "On" position (meaning the "pre-start" position, as clanofwolves puts it).

-- Still, the fuel pump not starting may be the problem. Below are steps I would take to see if the fuel pump is getting electricity.

-- Go to the wiring diagram, pdf page 18. In the upper right of the diagram on page 18 is the wiring for the fuel pump.

-- Edit: Check the EFI and IGN fuses. The location is indicated on the wiring diagram.

-- Check the EFI relay and the Circuit Opening Relay. If either of these relays has failed, the fuel pump will not start. The wiring diagram gives these relays' location on the Rav4. If you go to sites.google.com/site/ellessite/ and download the "Relays and Fuses" document, it may also help you to locate these relays.

-- Try tapping on the relays while someone tries to start the Rav. If tapping does not reveal anything, remove the relays and check them for operation. Use the terminal numbers printed on the relays themselves and as shown on the wiring diagram for guidance. Hopefully you are handy with a multimeter.

-- Also check the relays' sockets for signs of corrosion or bad connections.

-- Next up: Removing the rear seat to access the connector for the fuel pump and then seeing if the fuel pump has failed.
 

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Ok, we now have some direction. The fuel pump should prime for around 2 seconds, so,

We need to determine if you have power and ground at the fuel pump. Can you access the fuel pump connector, disconnect it, and check for 12v at pin 4 (blue/black wire) and a good ground on pin 5 (white black wire) - if you have an incandescent test light, this is the easiest way
 

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@Elle__Rav4 , I will of course bow to your better gen 1 knowledge - apologies to @clanofwolves
Regardless, after checking the two fuses and two relays above, I too expect going to the fuel pump connector, multimeter or test light in hand, is going to reveal helpful information.

BMR says the fuel pump does not prime with the key in the On position. See www.rav4world.com/threads/pre-start-fuel-pump-run.314083/ , post #3.

It's been awhile since I have done this particular check of the power to the fuel pump system. I do not rule out anything.
 

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Before ya go nuts diagnosing the fuel delivery system, there’s a very simple test as an alternative. Get some starting fluid and spray some into the intake while cranking the engine. If it starts and runs for a bit, you know it’s a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn’t, it could be no (or weak) spark, or perhaps the timing belt has slipped.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Before ya go nuts diagnosing the fuel delivery system, there’s a very simple test as an alternative. Get some starting fluid and spray some into the intake while cranking the engine. If it starts and runs for a bit, you know it’s a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn’t, it could be no (or weak) spark, or perhaps the timing belt has slipped.
Great idea. I did go out and spray quite a long blast of starter fluid into the PVC port and tried to start. It wouldn't start but had a half a second of a somewhat catch, but failed to do anything after that. I attempted it again with absolutely no starting response or sounds beyond the turning over of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Ok, we now have some direction. The fuel pump should prime for around 2 seconds, so,

We need to determine if you have power and ground at the fuel pump. Can you access the fuel pump connector, disconnect it, and check for 12v at pin 4 (blue/black wire) and a good ground on pin 5 (white black wire) - if you have an incandescent test light, this is the easiest way
OK, I checked the wires at the connector as requested during many different key positions:
1) when the key is not in, my meter showed 1.15 volts (basically nothing)
2) when the key is in the ON position, my meter showed 1.15 volts
3) with the key in the start position and the starter turning over the motor, the volt reading went up to 11.7 volts

What does this tell us? How do I check for fuel coming out of the pump easily and safely? Do I need to rent a fuel pressure gauge and attach it to the fuel rail? (this car has an attachment point I assume).


Thanks!
 

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[Stuff deleted; I initially misread wolves' last post]

The 11.7 volts at the pump when the key is in the start position tells me the EFI Fuse, Circuit Opening Relay, EFI relay and crankshaft position sensor appear to be working fine. This result is consistent with the test BMR had you do with the starting fluid: Since the Rav is not starting with even the starting fluid, the problem is likely not the fuel pump or fuel system.

How old are the spark plug cables and the spark plugs? Are the correct plugs installed? For the 1998-00 Rav, the plugs are twin electrode and more, as the owners' manual specifies.

Do check the resistances of the cables. Each spark plug cable's resistance should be well under 25,000 ohms.
 
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