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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I notice on the front and rear differentials it states that they take 85w90. Currently I have both running on Wolfs head 80w90 high performance gear oil cause it was cheap through my work. I bought some liquid moly 85w90 since it was the only gear oil I could find with that weight, is there much of a difference? I live in the Virginia Beach area so it really doesn’t get all that cold here although I have noticed it doesn’t perform its best when I try to drive without letting the coolant temp at least hit the bottom mark on the gauge and MPG is really bad until it warms up. MPG is huge for me since I have the 2gr-fe and only seem to average 18mpg, which gas prices rn I’m sure you can see why I want to get better gas mileage if possible. I have a custom catback with duel 2.25 tailpipes. Although I haven’t really changed up my driving style since the exhaust upgrades.
 

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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No worries! I’ll let you know. The listing said it was 3L but for $15 I should’ve known it was too good to be true and a 1L bottle showed up today so I’m having another bottle shipped overnight. I’ll probably change the gear oil drive a bit see what the MPG does, then change the engine oil. I use full synthetic cam2 5w30 cause I can get it from my work for free. So far it seems like a decent oil, and since I save money with free oil I can afford to spend the $20 on a wix xp oil filter I’ve heard great things about that oil filter it seems to be the best you can get for Toyota. Rn I have a K&N oil filter and it was $16 and it seems to be running fine, although with a basically spotless engine, and full synthetic id imagine it doesn’t make a huge difference what I use, I just wanna keep her running for as long as I can, by far the best car I’ve owned so far! And upgrading to duel tailpipes and a fully custom catback was definitely the best decision I’ve made I love the sound!!! Reminds me of a magnaflow in terms of tone with minimal drone and it’s basically straight through flow no packing or fiberglass besides the resonated tips. One downside is it actually seems to be sucking out the exhaust a little too fast. The cat underneath runs pretty cold rn, it seems to be at 500 degrees unless I’m full sending it then it gets up to 650-700 which is around where it was at when I had the stock exhaust. I might try putting a header wrap type thing on it to see if I can’t keep a little heat in there. It’s a spun cat so no need to worry about any welds cracking.
 

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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It’s possible that 500 degrees is around where it should be I’m not entirely sure. Maybe the higher temp was a bad thing now it’s functioning better. I really don’t know for sure. Worst case I break the honeycomb and get a new one at my work for a fraction of the price it would normally be and get my guy to weld it up all nice for $100. Having good connections definitely makes it all a bit easier
 

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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah you’re probably right. I usually let my car warm to temp before I drive cause it seems to like that and run a little better. The difference is minimal but I like to do whatever the engine prefers. I’m sure it’ll run great cold start once I clean the intake, and fuel system a bit better than what I’ve already done. I used marvel mystery oil in the fuel a couple months ago. Lotta debate on that, but I always use less than instructed, and mostly just rely on using high quality gas to keep everything clean. The mmo was mainly just to help oil the injectors.
 

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Yeah you’re probably right. I usually let my car warm to temp before I drive cause it seems to like that and run a little better. The difference is minimal but I like to do whatever the engine prefers. I’m sure it’ll run great cold start once I clean the intake, and fuel system a bit better than what I’ve already done. I used marvel mystery oil in the fuel a couple months ago. Lotta debate on that, but I always use less than instructed, and mostly just rely on using high quality gas to keep everything clean. The mmo was mainly just to help oil the injectors.
Letting the engine idle to warm up is NOT good practice, and EATs gas. Most modern cars should start and go; a few seconds to bring oil pressure up. Drive easy till engine is warm before giving it the beans. Less time spent in cold the start enrichment cycle the better. The car should also idle perfect even when it is cold. If not it can indicate that something is not right with the A/F mixing sensors which could mean low MPG even when warmed up. I'd be spending my time tracking down the issue rather than researching snake oils.
 

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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Letting the engine idle to warm up is good practice, and EATs gas. Most modern cars should start and go; a few seconds to bring oil pressure up. Drive easy till engine is warm before giving it the beans. Less time spent in cold the start enrichment cycle the better. The car should also idle perfect even when it is cold. If not it can indicate that something is not right with the A/F mixing sensors which could mean low MPG even when warmed up. I'd be spending my time tracking down the issue rather than researching snake oils.
very true! It does idle perfect it’s the shifting that’s a bit rougher when it’s cold I’m not quite sure what’s up with the tranny the transmission shop said it was fine and shifted perfectly. The idle was a bit rough when I first got it but I did some diagnosing and figured out it had a bad tensioner and belt which has since been replaced. I think the alternator is starting to go bad though it’s giving me 13.25v which isnt Great, but my aftermarket coverage does cover the alternator replacement for only a $100 deductible at any ase certified shop. I just haven't Had time to get the work done. Hopefully that’s the only issue. I mean realistically everything runs well enough, I do wanna be proactive about figuring out the issues before they become big problems though. Since it’s gotten warmer outside I haven’t had to spend as long letting it warm up I usually just wait till it reaches the bottom mark on the temp gauge before I shift into drive. Every Toyota I’ve ever been in (which is a lot when I worked as a GS at a shop) idles high on cold start but drops down quick something about calibrating the iacv I think.
 

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2010 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 4WD/AWD
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here’s some codes not quite sure what they mean rn but transmission and 4wd electrical systems are beyond my expertise lol
I think the steering angle sensor code is residual from when my shop reprogrammed the steering angle sensor after an alignment although I’m not quite sure and there’s about 1.5 degrees of play. I think it’s a slightly worn inner tie rod
 
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