Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently had my 2011 Rav4 serviced. Since I live in an area with very rough & rocky roads, I always have my mechanic check my front end components for wear. He pointed out my lower control arm bushing was worn. He replaced both lower control arms (with ball joints). Now I have a significant clunk/rattle underneath the front end when I go over rough roads (mainly level, rocky roads). He checked all bolts associated with the suspension for looseness, inner/outer tie rods, shocks/mounts, etc.. He did tighten up the control arm bolts a couple of times and the problem seemed to get better but not gone. One question I had......does it make a difference whether you tighten up the control arm bolts when the vehicle is jacked up vs. on the ground? He always tightened them with one wheel off the ground. Any help is appreciated.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,135 Posts
They should be tightened with the suspension under load...so no it doesn't matter if a wheel is jacked up or not...
Wait a minute. :confused: Since the OP said "He always tightened them with one wheel off the ground" that would mean the jacked up suspension wasn't loaded. So doesn't your statement contradict itself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Wait a minute. :confused: Since the OP said "He always tightened them with one wheel off the ground" that would mean the jacked up suspension wasn't loaded. So doesn't your statement contradict itself?
No sir...if you can have one wheel off the ground several ways...a ramp under the wheels would have the wheels off the ground with the suspension still loaded...you could have the front on Jack stands and the use another Jack under the rotor or control arm to load the suspension...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,135 Posts
No sir...if you can have one wheel off the ground several ways...a ramp under the wheels would have the wheels off the ground with the suspension still loaded...you could have the front on Jack stands and the use another Jack under the rotor or control arm to load the suspension...
Agreed but the OP's description implied at least to me that the guy had the car on the floor and simply jacked up the body to get the wheel he was working on off the floor as in changing a tire. That jacking method would violate your suspension-loaded requirement which I agree with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Agreed but the OP's description implied at least to me that the guy had the car on the floor and simply jacked up the body to get the wheel he was working on off the floor as in changing a tire. That jacking method would violate your suspension-loaded requirement which I agree with.
I totally agree with the way you see it...I just wanted to let the op know that it's possible to do it with one wheel off the ground...the guy could have raised the front, taken the wheel off, set a length of 4x4 under the rotor or control arm and lowered it enough to load that corner...the op really should as his mechanic to be sure...I doubt it's the control arm making the noise anyway...sway bar links and bushings is where I would look first...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Can you show us these "ball joints" that your mech used. I assume you are refering to the primary pivot bushing that is really a flex bushing (I hate those). THe most logical replacement is to use a uniball. Those tend to make noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Can you show us these "ball joints" that your mech used. I assume you are refering to the primary pivot bushing that is really a flex bushing (I hate those). THe most logical replacement is to use a uniball. Those tend to make noise.
The "ball joints" are on the outboard side of the lower control are, they connect the control arm to the steering knuckle...I believe the bushings you are referring to are the ones on the rear of the control arm...those are always rubber when I buy them already installed in a control arm...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
The "ball joints" are on the outboard side of the lower control are, they connect the control arm to the steering knuckle...I believe the bushings you are referring to are the ones on the rear of the control arm...those are always rubber when I buy them already installed in a control arm...
I understand the LCA configuration. It was based on the OP statement that I thought he had one of the bushings replaced with a ball joint.

He pointed out my lower control arm bushing was worn. He replaced both lower control arms (with ball joints). .
The rear bushing can be replaced with a uniball and it would work. I was just curious about the install as typically a uniball is held in place with a circlip on one side and a stop flange on the other, not interference fit as the steel cased bushing is.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the replies. As far as the jacking method, the mechanic just raised up the body (suspension not under load). As far as the ball joints, they already came installed on the control arms. I had new sway bar bushings installed as well (the steering tightened up). The sway bar links were replaced about 9 months ago. When he tightened up the control arm bolts a second time, the clunking lessened but is still present. That's why I brought up the issue of the jacking method.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top