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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am going to do maintenance on my rav and would like some advice... I'm doing clutch, and also both cv boots are cracked... My question is what jobs related with those could I do? Like, once you there you should may as well do it...For example, when you do cambelt you could also change seals, water pump, etc, etc. So what else would you do?

Thanks
 

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While you're at it mate, you should check you power steering pump for leaks and change the pump or inner kit. It happen to me, While I was changing the shifter cables (who BTW, sooner or later they will fail) I notice a lot of oil in that area around the pump. Sure enough, it was leaking.
 

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If the boots are cracked, then there's a good chance the CV joints are on their way out. Consider replacing both "half axle assemblies" -- price is not bad, at least on RockAuto.com . Good time to do the front brakes and struts, if needed. Also check out the steering.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Pressure plate, I always replace the pressure plate when I change clutches
Check your flywheel, you may need to have it resurfaced or you can replace it
Rear engine seal - always do this if you have to pull the tranny off the engine
Block Expansion/Freeze plugs - requires everything to be removed from the head to get access, if you had any problems with your cooling system you may want to consider this, an easy job except for access - if you do this replace the cooling system bypass hoses
Check traction bar bushings and end links
Check control arm bushings, mount, and ball joint - note that if you buy aftermarket you can get rebuilt control arms for just a little more than what you would pay for all the parts
Check the steering box for leaks, you can easily rebuild it
Check the steering hole cover, mine was totally shot. It is the part where the steering wheel shaft goes through the fire wall.
Move your EGR VSV to the firewall
A good time to fix any gasket or seal leaks, valve seals etc.
Clean your throttle body and EGR system
Inspect the hard to reach power steering hoses. My high pressure side was badly rusted, wasn't leaking, but I don't think it would have lasted much longer.
Check the cross members for corrosion, do some corrosion control while you have them off
Check Engine and tranny mounts, if they are original they probably need replacing, the rear tranny mount at least should be replaced because of what it takes to get to it, the others can be replaced easily
Change the tranny shaft seals
It is about the same price to buy new cv-joints (at least half joints) than it is to rebuild it yourself. If the boots are cracked I would replace not rebuild.
Check your wiring harness for damage, put dielectric grease on all connectors when you do your reconnects
Change vacuum lines
If it's been a while it's really easy to do the timing belt, water pump, etc

I know this is a long list but I just all did this and more on a 99 RAV4 4x4.

Another tip, don't attempt this without torque wrenches. You will need an inch pound and a foot pound wrench.

Caution, you may discover that you have a larger profanity vocabulary than you thought you had. LOL
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Having a torch to heat up some of the bolts, particularly frame/crossmember bolts is quite handy. Some of the mount bolts protrude well past the nuts, clean the threads with a wire brush and some penetrating oil (brake fluid works great, but it is hard on paint) will make life much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
this is quite a list... lol
ill check power steering pump as well, thanks

im getting half shaft assembly, clutch kit and flywheel from rockauto that are the most expensive stuff over here... engine mounts, seals, hoses are good prive and easy to find...


and btw, I know is not related to maintenance but I got some led headlights from china, in case somebody is interested... those are quite bright (too much I would say, some of the oncoming cars gave me high beam when passing me) and do not need any separate drivers, they are built in as well with a cooling fan...

however in one the them the cooling fan was faulty, the driver went really really hot and after 3 minutes the light was very weak, next time I checked the light was gone, burned... the other light seems to be alright till now... im not sure if will keep them because are too bright but they are good, very strong

anyway, if anybody is interest here some pics

thanks
 

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