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For $120 bucks they should've cut out the sections between the B n R and around the I that would drive me nuts! But I have several hang ups far worse than this...
 

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Just did the turn signals and backup lights. Thank you for posting how to do those. So much better than stock. On my first drive with the LED turn signals, people certainly react differently and let you in the lane lol. No excuses for not seeing them thats for sure.
 

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This is Part 1 about how I detailed the car and it will focus mainly on washing and prepping the clear coat and paint for polishing and ceramic coating. (Warning: Long post!)

Part 2 will cover polishing and ceramic coating.

As I stated in my first post, I did not want the dealer "detailing" my car after it arrived at the dealership. Mainly because most dealers do more harm to the clear coat and paint with their "detailing" methods. (i.e. running it through the automatic scratch wash, or having some kid do a one bucket wash and scratch the paint up with the dirt from the car!) But I digress.....(yes I am fanatical about detailing!)

The first step in detailing the car is to give the car a nice two bucket wash. What is a two bucket wash?? Here is a good write-up from Jay Leno's Garage. (with a few of my changes) I have added some amazon links for some of the items mentioned. I also get a lot of my detailing supplies from autogeek.com

Rule 1 – The Two-Bucket Wash Method
It is absolutely essential that you utilize two buckets when washing your car. Let’s think for a second on how you’re currently washing. I’ll bet you’re grabbing a single bucket, filling it with soap & water, grabbing your rag, spraying the car down, then going to town; constantly dunking your dirty rag into the same wash bucket. All the while, you’re mixing your clean wash water with the dirt and grime you just removed from the car’s surface. Your wash rag/mitt becomes impregnated with dirt, in turn transferring that dirt BACK to the vehicle’s surface, and slowly but surely scratching, marring, and dulling the painted surface.

Thankfully there’s an easy and effective fix to this issue. Instead of a single bucket, we recommend using two. One bucket for your soapy wash water (wash bucket), the other should be where you put your used wash towels. I use 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot.

Rule 2 – Grit Guards

Grit Guards Like THIS are relatively recent additions to the car washing tool box. A Grit Guard is an insert that is placed into the bottom of your wash buckets. They allow the dirt to sink to the bottom of the bucket.

Rule 3 – The Soap
Choosing the correct soap to wash your car with is another critical choice that will dictate the amount of work washing your car takes. Whatever soap you choose, make sure to never use dish soap for washing your car! Dish soap contains powerful detergents that will not only strip the dirt, oil and grime from your vehicle’s paint but also any wax protection you may have applied previously. Instead, choose a high-quality, PH-balanced soap that is designed specifically for cleaning painted surfaces. My favorite is Mr. Pink!

Rule 4 – The Wash Towel
It is imperative to invest in a quality wash mitt or wash towels. I am a big fan of THESE towels. I use about 5 or 6 for each wash. I soak them thoroughly and then lightly drag them across the surface of the paint. Applying very light pressure when needed.

Rule 5 – The Drying Towel
Do not overlook the drying step. Most folks will simply grab an old, cotton bathroom towel to do the job. But fabrics like cotton are typically too aggressive to use on your car’s paint and can also leave behind dreaded swirls and scratches. Instead, I use this DRYING TOWEL These provide an extra-soft, super absorbent solution to aid in drying your vehicle. And the best part is, they won’t harm your car’s painted surfaces.

The Process:
Do not wash the car in direct sunlight. Thoroughly rinse the car with your hose using a strong blast of water. I like using my pressure washer with a wide spray.

Soak your wash towels in your wash bucket, and wash from the top of the car, then work your way down – roof, windows, hood, trunk, front & rear, sides, then wheels, tires and wheel wells last (use a separate, dedicated brush to clean wheels, tires and wheel wells). I use one towel per side of the car and one for the roof. Place the each dirty towel in the "used" bucket.

Rinse the car after each major section to help avoid soap drying on the surface.
Once each section is completely clean, you can move onto the final step, drying the car. Using very light pressure, start at the top of the car, and work your way down with your drying towel.

As a side note: I also am a big fan of using a foam cannon to soap up the car. It can do a great job removing the tough dirt with out having to rub the surface of the paint excessively. However, the two bucket wash is a great place to start!.

Once I washed my new RAV4, I moved on to eliminating the RAIL DUST!!!.

What is Rail Rust:

Rail dust is a term used to describe tiny metal particles that have embedded themselves into your clearcoat. The term was originally used to describe dust that comes off of railroad rails. When vehicles are transported via train (Like my RAV4 was from California to the Midwest) there is a lot of friction between the rails and the train wheels. Both parts are outside at all times so they have a built up level of rust on them. This rust flies into the air in dust particles when the train is moving. Eventually these particles settle on the vehicles being transported. They embed themselves into the clearcoat and still continue to rust causing tiny red or rust colored spots in the clearcoat. Vehicles that are transported uncovered (like most cars!) are usually worse because of the finish being heated by the sun.

Rail dust does not just come from transportation though. It can come from almost anywhere; rust particle on the road from other cars, from nearby train tracks, from your disk brakes, or even from industrial areas. These particles can be very hard to remove but if you take a few special steps the removal process can be a lot easier and less time consuming.


View attachment 145089

So how do you remove the rail dust? Note: normal washing of the car will not remove the rail dust. Here's how I removed it from my new RAV4!

First you will need this product from Gyeon. GYEON Quartz Q²M Iron. I am a big fan of using Gyeon products so you will see me mention many of their products in this thread. You will most likely need 1000ml bottle to complete the process on the entire car and the wheels.

One panel at a time, out of direct sunlight, you will want to spray the panel with the Iron Remover. You should wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when using this product. It will not smell good! You will want to let it dwell on the surface for 3-5 minutes. During that time you will notice the product working as you will see the rust being lifted from the surface as purple streaks or dots. Like this!

View attachment 145090



View attachment 145092

After you wait 3-5 minutes rinse the panel off with a strong stream of water. You will be amazed at the amount of iron dust that will come off the car. I sure was!!

View attachment 145093

Continue to follow the same steps on each panel of the car. Be sure to rinse each panel very thoroughly.

Once the Iron removing has been completed, you will need to use a nanoskin sponge to remove any remaining surface contaminates. This is also known as claying the car. Many people use an actual piece of clay to remove the contaminates, but I find using a nanoskin sponge works better and it can be re used multiple times. This is the one I use HERE. You will also need to use a lubricant such as Gyeon Clay Lube. You will spray the lube on one panel at a time and lightly run the nanoskin sponge over the paint surface. Make sure you use enough lube! Using just water as Lube will not work.

Once the entire car has been "clayed" with the nanoskin sponge, re-wash the entire vehicle and dry. You will then be able to feel how much smoother the paint surface is and you will be ready for Part 2 of the detailing process: Polishing and Ceramic coating. Stay tuned for Part 2 coming in a post soon!

-M
When you used the iron remover did you spray it on the black roof and black rims too? I know iron remover and plastic typically dont mix well. I will be using Adams iron remover
 

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Discussion Starter #289
When you used the iron remover did you spray it on the black roof and black rims too? I know iron remover and plastic typically dont mix well. I will be using Adams iron remover
I used Gyeon Iron Remover and I used it on everything! Glass..plastic...paint...No issues...just follow the instructions and do not apply it in direct sunlight....

Good Luck!

-M
 

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Follow up:

I quieted down my choir today.

I took off the hood latch to do it so I wouldn’t mess up the guard. You’ll need a 10mm socket but it’s just 3 screws.

First take off the release wire and I’d also recommend putting a few marks with a pencil so you get the latch back exactly like it was. There is a little play in the holes and it seems conceivable that you could put the latch back crooked or too high.

Take off the 2 10mm screws on the guard, then the 5 plastic rivets by gently lifting the center portion with a thin flathead screwdriver. Guard comes off easily now.

Take wire off noisemaker while pressing the release, then 12mm socket for the the bolt that holds it on.

To quiet mine down I used a few layers of very thick electrical tape (that the power company left in my yard after they did some line work). Then wound regular electrical tape around the circumference a few times to hold the edges down and make it look nice.

Reassembly is straightforward.

Make sure to reconnect the release wire! I have no idea how you’d open the hood if you didn’t.



BTW, I broke off one of the tabs that holds the noisemaker’s faceplate on while trying to see what made it tick. Plastic is very brittle. Would not recommend attempting.
I just joined the site, so if I'm in the wrong place, I apologize! Does anyone know what the legal consequences would be if someone was run over because the back up warning device was bypassed?
 

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I just joined the site, so if I'm in the wrong place, I apologize! Does anyone know what the legal consequences would be if someone was run over because the back up warning device was bypassed?
I think the missing audio device is going to be the least of your worries running over a human.
 

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I just joined the site, so if I'm in the wrong place, I apologize! Does anyone know what the legal consequences would be if someone was run over because the back up warning device was bypassed?
welcome to the site!

I think the missing audio device is going to be the least of your worries running over a human.
needed a good laugh! Cheers.
 

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Well, they make a good point. The person, if they survive, may not end up suing Toyota, but they will sue the heck out of you for purposely disabling a federally mandated safety device. But, i'm not a lawyer.
 

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Well, they make a good point. The person, if they survive, may not end up suing Toyota, but they will sue the heck out of you for purposely disabling a federally mandated safety device. But, i'm not a lawyer.
That's what I'm worried about! But, I guess there's going to be a lot of guys on here in trouble! Maybe the rear braking sensor thing will save us! There's a lot of a--holes walking around out there with their head up their butt! BTW, this is my wife's car & she hates that noise! (& she's hard of hearing!)
 

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I dunno, I don't rely on electronics to replace my driving. I think this should go to the other thread (That's IT I have HAD IT.... I killed them....) and stop trashing managermans thread where upgrades and modifications are happening. Arguing about it starts at the bottom of page 2 and goes from there.
 

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I dunno, I don't rely on electronics to replace my driving. I think this should go to the other thread (That's IT I have HAD IT.... I killed them....) and stop trashing managermans thread where upgrades and modifications are happening. Arguing about it starts at the bottom of page 2 and goes from there.
I apologize! I saw (I thought) something here on the subject about the back-up warning noise and what guys are doing about it! I'm gone!
 
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