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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone ... just hoping someone out there has experience with pulling a small trailer with a Rav4! I'm going to moving from NH to CO (Aspen to be exact!!!) and I've been contemplating a couple things regarding pulling a small uhaul trailer ...
First off, do you think the internal difference in size of a 4x8 trailer vs a 5x8 trailer is all that worth it? Its only an approximate $100 difference ... I'm not fully sure how much stuff I'll be putting in it, I have NO clue as to how much space clothes, a computer, stereo, and a few kitchen items will take up ... along with a hop chest and a LARGE 1920's (or earlier) ocean liner type chest will take up ... I'm just trying to figure out how much crap I can get rid of.

The other MAJOR concern is speed. I know that on uahul trailers they all have stickers saying that the max recommended speed is 45mph. C'Mon, realistically, who is going to drive 45 when pulling a trailer if they have to go anywhere on a highway? What do YOU all think is a safe speed, higher than 45mph, at which a trailer can be pulled?

I'm going to ask the people at uhaul to see what they say about it ... I know they'll be programmed to say 45mph, but I'll tell them I want a realistic estimate of safe travel speed. When taking a 3000 mile journey, driving 45mph will take a LOOOONG time ... I'm hoping to be able to drive 65-70, MAYBE 75, but I doubt that fast with a trailer ...

Any comments/advice? THANK YOU so much ... I need it ...

- Bryan

P.S. ... Yes, I'm aware of the 1500 lb pulling limit on the Rav ... the 5x8 uhaul is about 900 lb leaving me 600lb left over and the 4x8 is 780lbs, leaving me 820 to load up in it. If I get the 4x8 trailer I can use a class I hitch, the other, a class II ... should I just get the class II hitch anyways? Thanks again ...
 

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I regularly pulled a 1500lb camp trailer with my 1996 2DR/4WD/5SPD. IMHO... if you keep the load under 1500lbs. and the TOUNGE WEIGHT under 150lbs (OEM hitch) or under 200lbs. with some aftermarket hitches such as DrawTite, you should do fine. I kept my speed under 60mph and was EXTRA CAREFULL of keeping distance between vehicles in front of me, as BRAKING distance is greatly reduced (without using trailer brakes).
 
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Sorry for asking, but I'm new to "techincal" terms regarding trailers ... what is "tounge weight"? I've seen it mentioned, but have no clue what it is in refrence to the trailers ... thanks
 
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Cool, thanks! I figured it had something to do with the part of the hitch that holds the ball ( the tounge ... ???) ... I appreciate the info :wink:
 

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U-haul Says 45 to cover their @$$. You won't be doing 70 or 75 I can tell you right now. The U-Haul doesn't have brakes and you should stick with there recomendation taking in to account that they factor in that people will travel 10% faster. So I'm sure you would be fine at 50mph but if you push it to 60 or so that would be all I would do because keep in mind YOU NEED TO STOP ALSO. It is alot harder to stop with 1500lbs behind you with no brakes. Get the bigger trailer. We always under-estimate how much we have to move and go with the Class 2 anyway because its a stronger hitch. If you rent a trailer in the future you won't have to worry about a class 1 trailer being available. Does the longer one have four wheels instead of two? This will help keep your tougue weight down. Happy motoring and be sure to keep it "Wheel-side down". Good Luck! Marcutio Out!
 
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No, the 5x8 has 1 wheel on each side, unfortunately!
I was figuring on driving 60-65, hoping for faste,r but not planning on it!
I'd be better off going slower anyways ... no speeding tickets & better gas mileage! Its a road trip, who wants to rush it ... ugh, oh how I'll miss 80-90 mph!
 
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As Kelly has already stated, it is very important to maintain an even load spread so that the trailer is reasonably ballanced, but also bear in mind not to overload the rear of the RAV. A good general rule of thumb is that the combination of car and trailer should look reasonably level, and not dip excessivly in the middle.

Speed wise, 50 is fine but do bear in mind that on down hill stretches an unbraked trailer will try to overtake your car and "Fishtail", so drop your speed a little on hills, it is very difficult for an inexperienced trailer driver to recover a trailer once it starts to "Fishtail" ie the trailer tends to wag from side to side, it starts gently at first, but then gets worse untill you are in serious trouble, so gently down the hills and have a safe trip.
 

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I saw a trailer get demolished by fishtailing out of control on a gentle downhill. The dude was in front of me going way too fast. When traffic slowed down, he did also, but the trailer didn't. It wasn't pretty. Fortunately nobody was hurt, his car stayed upright, and I gave him some distance, so I wasn't involved in the carnage.

The trailer did a bunch of fishtails, then it looked like it leaped in the air sideways and ripped free from his car. When it hit the road, it started rolling until nothing was left of the trailer.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
sorry where did you get the 1500lbs number from?

Here in australia the rav4 is rated to tow 1500 too but that is kg's so that would be about 3300lbs
 
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Discussion Starter #11
anthonyd said:
sorry where did you get the 1500lbs number from?

Here in australia the RAV4 is rated to tow 1500 too but that is kg's so that would be about 3300lbs
Here are the RAV4, 2001, ratings (found at: http://www.toyota.com/html/tcuv/brochures/01_rav4.pdf)
Payload - manual/automatic (lbs.): 1,069/1,036 1,003/970
Towing capacity (lbs.): 1,500 1,500
Cargo capacity, rear seats in/out (cu. ft.): 29.2/68.3 29.2/68.3
 

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They must build sell the Rav's with extra Kangaroo power down there. My 148 Moose power Rav will only haul 1500Lbs. and I hate like hell to do that. Later.
 
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The Uhaul trailer... Man, what a pain... When you pick it up, try to get one that looks less than 20 years old... Also look at the hubs and see if there appears to be grease leaking. Try to get another one if that's the case.

As to speed, I've done 70 w/ one in a Tacoma pickup... It can get interesting.... and I don't recommend it... and I wouldn't do it again. It gets tempting on long trips.

However, 60 is a good top speed and when you get to the mountains, 45 will be top speed. You'll see... That Rav will be chugging with all the weight at 6,k+ feet above sea level.

Be ready for a reduction in everything, POWER will be way down, BRAKING will definitely be doubled and MILEAGE will suffer greatly. I generally get a little more than half of normal when I tow at max on a vehicle. Expect no more than 15 mpg in NH, rolling hills, etc.. but maybe single digits in the steep mountains.

Best of luck. You've got the right attitude of not being in a hurry. Keep cool and don't let the idiots get under your skin!

-C
 
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Discussion Starter #14
BryanNH said:
Here are the RAV4, 2001, ratings (found at: http://www.toyota.com/html/tcuv/brochures/01_rav4.pdf)
Payload - manual/automatic (lbs.): 1,069/1,036 1,003/970
Towing capacity (lbs.): 1,500 1,500
Cargo capacity, rear seats in/out (cu. ft.): 29.2/68.3 29.2/68.3
Here's the one from australian toyota website:
http://rav4.toyota.com.au/TWR/vehicle/specifications/select/0,4220,410_124_207,00.html

As you can see 1500KG limit.

Hell they're the same vehicle so somewhere someone has it wrong. Kinds reminds you of the moon lander problem when units were not translated correctly!
 
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Discussion Starter #15
anthonyd said:
BryanNH said:
Here are the RAV4, 2001, ratings (found at: http://www.toyota.com/html/tcuv/brochures/01_rav4.pdf)
Payload - manual/automatic (lbs.): 1,069/1,036 1,003/970
Towing capacity (lbs.): 1,500 1,500
Cargo capacity, rear seats in/out (cu. ft.): 29.2/68.3 29.2/68.3
Here's the one from australian toyota website:
http://RAV4.toyota.com.au/TWR/vehicle/specifications/select/0,4220,410_124_207,00.html

As you can see 1500KG limit.

Hell they're the same vehicle so somewhere someone has it wrong. Kinds reminds you of the moon lander problem when units were not translated correctly!
Here's the difference:
Towing capacity - with trailer brakes 1500kg
- Without trailer brakes 750
(Note: Towing capacity - Subject to state regulations, towbar design and towing equipment.)
With and without trailer brakes ... it comes out to 1653.466965 lbs without brakes ... or 3306.93393lbs with brakes.

Now, I have a question ... does anyone think that the size of the hitch you buy will affect the amt of weight you can tow? I mean, say toyota's studies are based on the factory tow hitch which has its specific limits, do you think that buy a hitch with a higher rating, like the type III I'm buying, which mounts directly to the frame, would allow you to safely tow a bit more than the 1500lb limit (or 1650 lb limit as determined by the Aussie specs .. )??

Oh, by the way, why the heck are tires spelled with a "Y" in Aus??!!
Tyres ... weird!
 
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