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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced front struts, front bushings and rear shocks on Friday. Change transmission fluid, transfer case and rear differential oil on Saturday. Everything was good until Sunday afternoon, I got metal clicking when drive on back snowed road. Clicking level start raise till evening, even on potholes. I thought it's sounds from front right, but my buddy listen today and said it's from center.
I drop metal plates under bushings, plastic cover under sway bar, try wiggle bushings, maybe I put not properly. Also I found front right capiler was loose, unbolt 2 pins, grease them, tight back nicely.
Metal clicking still present, maybe a bit less.
I can move links by hand but they not clinking or really loose
This not clinking on highway, only on big potholes or back road. Even if I go in pothole with left wheel - it's clicking. So it's not right side only, thinking about sway bar and bushings. I can't even put my small finger between sway bar and metal on top of sway bar.
I use Moog bushings
Made appointment to auto shop on coming Friday but maybe you guys can give me idea
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
KTL, reuse old springs and mounts, hope properly :) not extra parts left on floor near vehicle so should be good :LOL:
So I drop sway bar again (actually who will replace that bushings - unbolt 2 plates under each bushing together, take 3 fastener clip out, drop down plastic cover on middle and drop sway bar and only after replace bushings. This way much easier compare to try replace each bushing on each side (how I did first time)) and take new bushings out, compare to old one, my canadian buddy take measure and said I tried put 3/4 inch bushings to 1 inch sway bar. That's why sway bar was too close to frame and hit frame on bumpy road.
I put old bushings back and no more clicking metal to metal sound. But now a bit dull noise on big bumps, railway track and overall looks like steering response not as good as on new bushings (maybe placebo who know...)
Is Sport trim have bigger sway bar compare to Base/Limited? 3/4 inches vs 1 inch in Sport?
Rockauto say nothing about that, only difference with 3rd row seat
I ordered cheaper MOOG K201482 from Partsavatar and no any notification about different trims
Does it look same diameter hole Moog and Mevotech bushings?
I want stop some day at Toyota dealer and look on original bushings and if they have 1 inch hole I will go fight to partsavatar store, that a$$holes not yet return me money for spark plugs, I drop that plugs for them around 3 weeks ago.
Big image Moog
Big Mevotech
Mevotech Supreme left
p.s. according to rockauto this type of bushings was only 2007-2008 years Rav4
From 2009 Toyota start put on Rav different bushings
Scarborough Toyota who sell OEM parts say this bushings good for Toyota RAV4 3.5L V6 A/T 4WD Sport Sport Utility 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
Maybe need tight bushing plate with rachet not all way up? For faster and easier job I use air gun and tight 4 bolts on each plate complete to frame... Overtight plates, bushings with sway bar was too close to frame and sway bar hit frame on bumpy road?
 

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I recall a thread where the nut that holds the strut in the center is not tighten down properly causes some noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is very informative post by TEKSMRT regarding the sway bar size and options. Note that for the Sport trim, front OEM is 25mm, rear OEM is 22mm.
Oh, I saw this nice Rav on YouTube
He did great job to put 32mm sway bar, I can't even fit properly stock 25mm with moog bushings...
After researching looks like all bushings are same size
Moog are softer compare to OEM, I think need tight them by hand with wrench not all way up, only enough how much power and muscle I have. Air gun too much squeeze them IMHO
Glad it's no clicking now and I know it's not struts
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I recall a thread where the nut that holds the strut in the center is not tighten down properly causes some noise.
Thanks but I used air impact wrench. This little thing have lots power
It's not clinking now with old bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So today I installed new Moog bushings again, because found steering was much better compare to old one. Igave them nice spray inside and out with WD40 to be sure they will seat in right position.
Also I put extra washer between plate and frame for each bolt. In my opinion this trick can give to bushings couple millimeters extra space and will not push sway bar too much up to frame. I did complete tight, found it's doesn't matter ratchet or air wrench.
Result is better but not completely, got that metal clicking when drive through railway tracks and some potholes, but no more clicking while drive on snow or back road...
Maybe I give them week or 2, hope they will seat properly.
If no, try Mevotech bushings? Or OEM ($45 cad each, probably twice more at local dealer)?
Nice option with aftermarket sway bars but they don't ship to Canada
 

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I don't think bushing brand is going to make any change in the clicking. Your sway bar links could be worn, your brake pads could be loose. Describing a sound to someone can be very difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't think bushing brand is going to make any change in the clicking. Your sway bar links could be worn, your brake pads could be loose. Describing a sound to someone can be very difficult.
Looks like you didn't read all posts because it's not clinking with old bushings
 

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If the new and old bushings are identical size when put one on top of the other, then it's not their fault.

Old bushings are softer than the new ones and they "give" when pressed by the swaybar, and in this way they are relieving some of the load on the actual sway bar links.
IMO the clicking is coming from the links themselves. If you have speed bumps on your roads (not covered by snow), try going over them with just one tire. That would put tension on the sway bar and make the noise.
 

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It's not the bushings clicking, guaranteed. It's probably the links. You worked on the struts, sway bar, shocks, transmission fluid, diff fluid, etc... you missed something or didn't do something right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Probably...
My wife called me after I done left side and I did much faster right side, but also I already knew what need to do and did whole right strut for 20 minutes with air tools. No extra parts left so should be good...
Bushings can't clicking, they are rubber. I think it's sway bar touch suspension elements because in some places it's so tight I can't even put my little finger in gap between bar and arms, links etc.
I'll order links too, they easy to replace.
Any idea about difference between Mevotech GS86803 and MS86803?
Unfortunately I don't have my own garage, if I have I will already take apart that strut and put everything back
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah... IDK. I have used MOOG Problem-Solver parts in the past and I had luck with them.
BTW, for my 2011 Limited 4WD V6, there is a different bushing listed:
Front-to-frame K201279
Rear-to-frame K200829

Check your part # here: Find My Part
Moog show same as rockauto
That bushings what I put they fit 2007-2008 Rav4 except 3rd row seat
2007-2008 3rd row seat and 2009+ all trims have bushings what you showed - k201279
 

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If you would click on the link in my post above, it would take you MOOG directly, to check the parts that fit your vehicle.
This is Mevotech link: Mevotech Parts Online
I have used Mevotech parts in my Sable that's now at 170k miles, and is driven by my teenage daughter. They're OK.

GS is their "economical" line, MS is the "X-factor enhanced" line. That's what I would get if you don't have your own garage.
They have added now the TXM line also, with grease fittings. Those are the best, but it involves you filling those with a grease gun and checking them time to time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Bought Mevotech MS links, dropped Rav for recommended in my community evening-weekend mechanic, asked him to check strut also if replace links not help, he laughed I assembled strut wrong. So picked Rav4 yesterday - no any noise anymore in suspension finally and steering pretty well. Didn't see him, wife gave me key so no idea yet it's links or strut.
Now left only 100 and 1 thing to fix and Rav will be in excellent condition :)
Ok, now when suspension good I notice slight vibration-knock in steering wheel driving on low speed on bumpy snowy road. Probably rack and pinion. Is it fixable or usually need replace whole part? Is rack and pinion hard to fix/replace?
Hm, whole rack and pinion $650 cad remanufactured and shipped from Rockauto. Does Sport model have different steering ratio vs Base/Limited?
 

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Before you drop money on the steering rack, ask your mechanic to check the tie-rod ends, outer go out first, but inner eventually can go out too (if the outer are left unfixed).
 
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