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Just got new 2015 Rav4. (Son had 2008 Scion so familiar with oil filter cartridge replacement inside of housing vs a conventional spin on one piece filter.) I am thinking about getting a metal oil filter housing to replace the plastic one that comes on the car, (actually I have not looked at it yet, just got car 2 days ago).
Having trouble finding the part number and where to purchase the metal housing for the 2015 Rav4. Saw on tundra forum, etc that part number 15620-31060 is the metal housing part number that appears to be identical to the black plastic housing but have also found other sites that say this will not fit the 2015 Rav4 2.5 liter engine. Can anyone help? Just think metal housing is a good thing and don't want 2 free oil changes from the dealer (if I get them) to result in someone overtightening the plastic housing or drain plug on the bottom of the housing and creating a problem for when I want to change the oil myself. Thank you.
 

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The aluminum housings were deprecated due to the potential for galling of the threads.
Aluminum-on-aluminum is not a good thing.

The plastic housing is plenty strong (intake manifolds have been polymer for many years), and it has the advantage that it is not a good conductor of heat, meaning for a more comfortable oil change with the engine at proper operating temp.
 

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When I talked to my dealer parts guy two years ago about replacing the plastic housing with the metal one on my '13 RAV, he said it would fit, but it wasn't recommended. The plastic is an upgrade from the metal. He said if I did install the metal canister, warranty would not cover any claim for damage of anything related to the lubrication system.
 

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Installed the aluminum one during the first oil change. I don't remember the part #. Kept the plastic one as a spare. Our dealer recommends them over the plastic one. Glad we switched out.
 

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I saw a generic pot-metal looking replacement housing at AutoZone. It looked just like the plastic one but I'm not sure it was exactly the same or would fit. I stuck it in the back of my head as a possible cheaper than OEM replacement for the plastic one should I ever somehow damage it. Having said that, 70,000 miles later, I've no real concerns about the plastic one. One would have to be real numb skull to over tighten it to the point of damage. First it has a pretty distinct hard stop when it's seated and tightening it further is pointless as the seal occurs around the the perimeter o-ring. Unlike the screw-on type filters, pressure on the seal is not increased by tightening further.
 

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I One would have to be real numb skull to over tighten it to the point of damage.

I've seen some Toyota filter housings that were so tight that I needed a 2 foot breaker bar to get it loose. I snug them down with a 6" 3/8 ratchet then give it a little extra. The tightness is not what makes the seal. The o-ring is on the outside of the housing, and seals against the inside of the housing on the engine. Some quick lube places employ numb skulls. One used a jaws type oil filter wrench to install a new spin on filter, and poked four holes in the side of the filter leading to a massive hemorrhage a few miles later.
 

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I've seen some Toyota filter housings that were so tight that I needed a 2 foot breaker bar to get it loose. I snug them down with a 6" 3/8 ratchet then give it a little extra. The tightness is not what makes the seal. The o-ring is on the outside of the housing, and seals against the inside of the housing on the engine. Some quick lube places employ numb skulls. One used a jaws type oil filter wrench to install a new spin on filter, and poked four holes in the side of the filter leading to a massive hemorrhage a few miles later.
I don't even bother with the "little extra". I seat it using a 1/4" drive ratchet and stop the instant I feel it bottom.
 

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15620-31060 is the correct oem part. Dorman 917-016 is an aftermarket part. the price difference between the two are too too bad. less than $5. i bought the aluminum one to use after 25k miles. i have changed my oil once so far and the plastic composite seems very durable. proper torque is the key.
 

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i just got the dorman on since my other on cracked to to my tool slipping off when i was taking it out. seems to be made just like the Toyota one. I will check for leaked over the next few days.
 

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I installed Part #15620-31060 on my '13 Rav4 because I broke off one of the plastic wings on the original plastic housing. (My filter wrench is the "wing" style rather than the cap style.). The plastic wing broke off in part because of the amount of force required to install or remove the housing and in part because I got the wrench on slightly crooked. (My plastic housing was extraordinarily tight during installation and removal.)

I did abuncha research before the swap because I figured Toyota was making an "upgrade" by switching from metal to plastic. It turns out that switching from plastic back to metal is pretty common for various Toyota owners. It's a really popular switch for Tacoma owners. I haven't yet found any reports of damage, galling, poor performance, etc., and this swap has been going on for a lot of years.

As a bonus, the metal housing is much easier to turn on my Rav4. If I get worried about galling, I'll just apply some anti-seize lube.
 

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The plastic housing should not be that hard to thread on (or off). There is some resistance to turning from the O-ring, but it is not that much, if the ring is installed properly. I've been turning the plastic housing on with a ratcheting torque wrench set at 10 ft lb., and turning it by the 3/8" square socket drive recess in the housing drain cap. It doesn't take anywhere near 10 in lb to turn the housing until it seats. Once seated at 10 ft lb, applying 20 ft lb causes the housing to rotate only a few more degrees.

To help the O-ring rotate and slide in, apply not only a film of oil on the ring, but also on the shallow internal taper in th bottom of the filter base, on the engine where the O-ring seats.
 

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The plastic housing should not be that hard to thread on (or off).
I agree, Robert, but alas, it was. Over the course of 6 oil changes, it was still excessively tight, despite lubricating the o-ring and threads, checking all the parts, etc. Perhaps I got an odd duck.
 

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15620-31060 is the correct oem part. Dorman 917-016 is an aftermarket part. the price difference between the two are too too bad. less than $5. i bought the aluminum one to use after 25k miles. i have changed my oil once so far and the plastic composite seems very durable. proper torque is the key.
Hm, I want to get this for my wife's car.. I started doing the maintenance myself and um, I , um didnt have the right tool for the filter housing. I used 'something else' to get the plastic housing off.
Now that I have the correct housing socket, I want the metal housing. Thing is, using that toyota # and ebay, I get sellers who list the 2013 4 cyl. as compatible and others who state emphatically it is for the 3.5 V6 ONLY...

Part number is the part number,right?

Genuine Toyota Lexus 3 5L 6CYL Engine Oil Filter Cap Assy 15620 31060 | eBay
 

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Cap part#15620-31060 fit our 2014. Will fit all Rav4 2009+ 4 Cyl. (2ARFE)
 

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The plastic one should be fine. My Hyundai uses this type and hasn't failed after 6 oil changes (and counting). You need a removal tool to connect to your ratchet to remove it - "end cup oil filter wrench". Its like $8 on ebay. If you're unsure how much to tighten it just make note of how it looks before you take it off so you know when to stop tightening when putting it back on. Stop as soon as it's flush.
 

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I'm back... Having done maybe 9 oil changes on the RAV (forgot at what point I went with the metal housing) I can report no issues...

I do however want to investigate my '19 Camry V6 and see if it uses the same filter housing. It uses the same filter cartridge. If the housing is the same as the RAV I might upgrade the Camry to
metal as well... The Camry forum guys didnt have much input in terms of part numbers....
 
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