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Discussion Starter #1
I know there's other threads on motor swaps, but this is my swap, so my new thread. y0.

So, let's walk around this RAV.
Back view:


Looks like all the other ones, right?

Side view:




Wait, are those stock wheels? Let's check:


I think those wheels have been painted!!

How about the inside?


Hum. Looks like an Alpine stereo, and 1st gens didn't come with intermittent wipers!

Let's pop the hood:



That cone filter is not stock. I'm pretty sure.

Look: A JDM dipstick. y0.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Here's some comments on the swap. Not a step by step, but some guidelines. If you're going to do this yourself, you really need to be pretty good at wrenchin' and especially electrical stuff. Really, if I had to do it again, I think I would take the easy route and mail the RAV and a check for six large to Prime, who did the GRM MR2, and let them do it and mail me the car back. This took me about 10 months to do. That's working on it in my spare time, generally an hour an evening and maybe 8-10 hours on a weekend. It's still not "done," but it is up and running. I still need to do the exhaust and the hood scoop/fan for the charge cooler.

Note that everything is working. The Check Engine Light is hooked up and NOT ON, power steering, air conditioning, ABS. I haven't tried the cruise control yet.

The motor is a 4th gen 3SGTE from a Caldina. I had to buy 2 motors. The first one (ebay) arrived, I was going over it, the turbo compressor was a tad loose, not real loose, but a tad and I decided to pull the housing ("O2 pipe?") off and check it out. Good thing, because the turbine was wedged in sideways. Took it apart and brought it to G-Pop Shop, which is local to me and does a lot of turbo rebuilds for the ricer/tooner community. They said it was not rebuildable as the part where the bearing goes was destroyed. Now, it turns out that the 4th gen turbo, a CT20B, is unique to the Caldina motor and made from unobtainium. The housing is actually the exhaust manifold. I don't know if another gen manifold and separate turbo would work or not. If I had the exhaust manifold from a 2 or 3rd gen, I could compare them and see. Anyway, no turbo.

I called up the ebay seller. "We no galanteee accesselys." I said, "Just send me another motor. AND THIS TIME, I WANT YOU TO PULL THE OXYGEN SENSOR OUT AND SPIN THE TURBINE AND WATCH THAT THE COMPRESSOR WHEEL SPINS, OK?" They did that while I was on the phone and put it on the next truck smoking. "Made me a deal" because it was a cut harness off an auto box motor. I took the good used turbo off and brought it to G-Pop-Shop, which is local to me, and had it rebuilt. They said it was fine, quite runable as it was, but I said "just rebuild the thing, it's made from unobtainium and that way I know it will last."

The first motor was an uncut harness with ECU, vacuum switch for the charcoal canister, relay and resistor pack for the fuel pump and a manual transmission. I bought one with a transmission attached so that I would be sure to get a flywheel and clutch set. I am using the original RAV transmission. I think it is plenty strong for 300 HP and overall had fewer things to dink with to make it work, the main thing being the speedo drive. If I was going for 800 HP, well, I'd mess with the Caldina trans.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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I like it! Any problems with the intercooler overheating without a functional hood scoop?
 

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I think without a hood scoop it'd be better without the intercooler, which will just heat the air more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not real sure about problems. My last turbocharged car didn't have a charge cooler at all. I've only driven it about 100 miles so far. If the charge cooler is heat saturated, you get less HP as the ECU will pull timing at a minimum and play with other parameters like less fuel. The hood scoop is on my list. I really want one like from a Tacoma hood and blend it in so that it looks stock, or at least "confusing." The other option would be to get the cheesiest looking stick-on scoop from O-Vato-Zone and sticking it on, but making it actually functional. I wired in a control wire set over next to the Turbosmart boost controller valve. The Turbosmart boost controller has a capability to control an external relay. I'll set it to kick in at like 4PSI boost and run the fan on the charge cooler. It's on my list. Also, I was thinking about making a NACA duct over the air intake cone filter to get some cold air, and maybe boxing the filter off some. Needs exhaust done first.

So, as I mentioned, that's a Turbosmart EBoost electronic boost controller. I have a switch in the dash for high and low boost settings. The BOV is also Turbosmart.

More notes:
I used all the Caldina motor accessories. I've read of some swaps where they used all the RAV accessories and had to fab brackets to get it all to work. I'd much rather stick with an original Toyota setup. The PS pump and AC pump lines were not really compatible with the RAV. I did get the RAV PS lines to work, though. The high pressure hard line connection to the pump was the wrong shape, but I bent it until it fit. We had a battle on that under the car, with it hitting me in the lip pretty good, giving me about a 1cm labial hemotoma. I told people I got in a fight with the RAV. It's been a while, but I think one of the AC lines fit, but not the other. Some bending may have been needed on the one. The other one was just not going to work. The Caldina motor came with cut lines. I took the RAV AC line and the cut half of the Caldina line down to the local NAPA place, and they could salvage the Caldina end and put it on the RAV hose. Cost was like $15 or so. The alternator fit fine, but it has a heat shield/duct work bolted to it. That had to come off for the installation. I put the alternator portion back on after it was in. The rubber ducting wouldn't fit. Probably not really needed anyway.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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I like the looks of the Tacoma scoops, but it looks like they are mounted too far back to provide much help.

Because it can be difficult to get a functioning hood scoop to really work, you have to find where you have positive airflow and get the scoop at that height. One way to determine where that point is, is to tape something sturdy to the hood and put some short streamers on it. The ones in a negative flow area will flow towards the front, those in a dead zone will just buffet around and those in a positive zone will steady face back towards the cab. You should put several up at various points on the hood to keep from having to move it around a lot. If they are too close to each other you'll get turbulence that will negate the test.

The best way would to use a wind tunnel and smoke but who has that kind of money?
 

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Forgot to say, nice work. I'm envious of people with your skill and patience.

Yes, an exhaust should be high on your list. With the turbo contributing some silencing, you can fit a straight through silencer and it'll still be quiet. A high flow cat is also worth doing, if legal where you are.

You're right to look at a cold air supply for the filter too. Maybe a wider scoop that feeds both the cooler and filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, a high flow cat. Kinda. Actually, the "O2 pipe" has the cat built into it on the 4th gen motor. So the original cat on the RAV isn't needed.

I have a 2-1/4" input muffler with dual outputs that I want to use. I need to get the rest of the pieces. I'd like to keep it as stock looking a possible.

OK, more notes:
I filled the motor mounts and the differential mounts with castable urethane. Differential mounts were, ahh, phun to get off and on.

Fuel Pump: The RAV fuel pressure regulator is in the tank just after the pump on the assembly. The 3SGTE regulator is on the motor. A bigger fuel pump is needed. I bought a generic high flow in tank pump, cut out the in tank regulator and put a fuel return line from the firewall back to the tank. I spliced it in at one of the vents on top of the tank with a T fitting. More of a 'Y' fitting, I suppose. Note that the fuel return line is low pressure, like at atmo or close to it.

The Caldina system has a resistor pack switched in and out of the circuit to drive the fuel pump. It kicks the resistor in at idle so the fuel pressure regulator is not overrun. The in and out of the resistor, through the relay, has to be wired in series with the RAV fuel pump circuit after the RAV's fuel pump relay ("Circuit Opening Relay"). This is in the left kick panel. 4th gen resistors/relays are wired up slighly different than previous gen resistors/relays, and they actually incorporated changes that some people have been using on previous gens so that the fuel pump is always energized, even when the relay is mechanically switching over.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Throttle Cable: The 3SFE throttle cable won't work on the 3SGTE. The "stick out" distance from the end of the cable to the ferrule is too long. Note that on my RAV, the cable comes from a box gizmo that has two disks in it and is the control motor for the cruise control. The throttle cable from the throttle pedal goes to one disk and the other disk has the cable to the actual throttle body. That's how you can override the cruise control and accelerate more than it is set for. I thought about looking in the junk yard for a cable that would fit, but in the end, I just said screw it and fabbed up a ferrule from a bolt laying around on my lathe, drilled a hole through it, cut the existing cable sticking out to the right length and welded the new ferrule onto the cable with the MIG. This turned out to be handy, because a couple days later I needed to repair the throttle cable on my step-son's MR2 and I had the blue print drawing for a Toyota ferrule already done (just needed to dig it out of the trash) and even had the stock still chucked up in the lathe.

I let my wife Dr.Linda, drive it last night on the way home from the auto parts store. I was returning a brake master cylinder for the RN Truck under warranty. Damn thing only lasted 23 years and 210K miles. I wish they would make stuff to last. Good thing I had the lifetime warranty on that. Anyway, she was laughing all the way home every time the BOV let off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Air Cleaner: I really wanted to use the stock RAV air cleaner setup. It's actually pretty nice. The filter is also the exact same part that a Lotus Elise uses for the 2ZZ motor. However, it just wasn't going to work. Where the air box let out was no where near where the turbo inlet was. I wound up using the Caldina S shaped tube from the turbo to a section of straight Autozone sourced ricer pipe, which I drilled a hole in for the air temp sensor, and then added the cone filter. There are 2 intake air temp sensors in the 4th gen motor. One at the manifold and one at the airbox. I have no idea why. Having tuned a few ECU, the only temp I cared about was what was in the intake manifold. Anyway, there's 2, and if one is missing, the ECU will not be happy, so it's there. As I said, I'm not real happy with the air intake as far as temp goes, but maybe a hood scoop and some block off plates will cool it down. It's a matter of not getting too complicated so that servicing isn't to much more work as well.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Discussion Starter #13
That's an interesting mod, eodgator, but that wouldn't work with the turbo motor. The intake for the turbo is right behind the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's my cheat sheet for the wiring. Note that this is not a step by step, but how I mapped it out. The wiring was the biggest job of this swap, as usual. When I swapped a 20v 4AG into a MR2, it was 2 days to R&R the motor and several weeks to wire it up. This job was worse, and I had a complete harness to work with. The Easy Button is to sub out the harness. The Super Easy button is to sub out the whole job. Oh well, it keeps us out of trouble.

So, I stripped apart the 4 harnesses: RAV engine, RAV chassis, Caldina engine, Caldina chassis, traced out every single wire and merged them together to get Caldina engine and RAV chassis. Of course, they have interconnections as well. It is an electrical nightmare job. I must say, though, that the Caldina wiring harness has to be the toughest wiring harness I have ever seen. Doesn't make it easier to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
After I got it all wired up, the oil pressure light wasn't working. The Caldina motor uses an oil pressure sender. The RAV uses an oil pressure switch. Note that is how they are called in the EPC's (Electronic Parts Catalogs). Sender <> Switch. Sender is for a gauge. I actually prefer an idiot light over a gauge. I was going to hook up an 18 wheeler trailer brake light as the oil pressure idiot light in my Elise, but some dumb f'in kid in a Jeep totaled it out by rear ending me before I could get to it. Anyway, for this swap, you need to take the oil pressure switch off of the 3SFE and put it on the 3SGTE. They are "almost" in the same place, on the left rear side of the head, or on the front, left side, depending on how you look at it. Let's say exhaust side behind #4 at the top. The connectors are the same. I had this same issue with two different 4AGE 20v swaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought two 8" fans on teh amazons to mount on the charge cooler. I'll control them off of the Turbosmart boost controller. I think I'll turn them on at like 4PSI. I bought some relays and fuses to run the fans. I think I would like a time delay on them, though, so that when, say, shifting and the boost goes from 15 to 0 that the fans don't cut off. Not sure if that's a problem or not, but making a delay circuit from some 555 timers shouldn't be too hard. I haven't messed with 555's or 556's in decades, but I bet they are still out there.

I also bought all the parts I need to do a 2-1/4" exhaust. I bought 3 "J's" on amazon, and 10' of tubing plus some used flanges from the local muffler shop. I have a 1 in, 2 out 2-1/4" muffler that a friend gave me after he bought a muffler shop's parts and equipment. I think the only thing I don't have is the exhaust tips. I have some stainless tubing laying around that would probably work. That's going to be a full weekend job, which means 2 weekends, as my time estimates are usually 50% of what it usually takes. Except for databases, in which case it's usually the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fans installed:


They are controlled by the boost controller. I have them set to turn on at >2K RPM and 1 or more PSI. I still need to do the hood scoop to get some cool air to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2-1/4" exhaust, mandrel bent bends.





Friend gave me the 1 in 2 out 2-1/4" muffler. I bought the bends on Amazon and some straight from a local muffler shop. Tips are some stainless tubing I had laying around. I have about a bill (for you non-Americans, that would be One Hundred U.S. Dollars) in it. And about 4 days work.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Very nice!
 
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