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And, there is the story of the fella who used a live ammo round when he blew his light circuit fuse. After successfully removing himself from the gene pool when the round exploded, he was nominated for the Darwin Award........ "course this story was eventually debunked by Snopes, but it sure rings true.....:)
 

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Can anyone please assist.

I have just purchased a 2008 Rav4 (2.2D) and I cannot even find the fuse box you are refering to.
My car is obviously a RHD and the bonet release is by my right foot but their is nothing there that even comes close to looking like it comes apart. Does anyone know if I am even looking in the right place?

Many Thanks
Darren
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Can anyone please assist.

I have just purchased a 2008 Rav4 (2.2D) and I cannot even find the fuse box you are refering to.
My car is obviously a RHD and the bonet release is by my right foot but their is nothing there that even comes close to looking like it comes apart. Does anyone know if I am even looking in the right place?

Many Thanks
Darren
In your case I believe you will find the relay panel behind the glove box.
 

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JuneBug, used some 12AWG wire to attach a switch to the relay contacts. I think I want to take it a step farther though and incorporate the original relay, basically keeping the relay and having the switch as the jumper too, so it will work normally but have the option to be bypassed. As is, it is completely bypassed, but it was a really quick project.

Finding a switch to fit the knockouts is a pain in the butt. I was hoping I'd be able to simply hollow out a knockout, but that doesn't seem like it will work.
 
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JuneBug, used some 12AWG wire to attach a switch to the relay contacts. I think I want to take it a step farther though and incorporate the original relay, basically keeping the relay and having the switch as the jumper too, so it will work normally but have the option to be bypassed. As is, it is completely bypassed, but it was a really quick project.

Finding a switch to fit the knockouts is a pain in the butt. I was hoping I'd be able to simply hollow out a knockout, but that doesn't seem like it will work.
There have been a few threads about trying to find switches that will fit. No one, to my knowledge, has located a good fit so far. I had the same thought that you did, but I've been unable to find a switch to make it work(Short of buying one from Toyota for $50-$75.)

Rick
 

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There have been a few threads about trying to find switches that will fit. No one, to my knowledge, has located a good fit so far. I had the same thought that you did, but I've been unable to find a switch to make it work(Short of buying one from Toyota for $50-$75.)

Rick
I found one that fit tight, height-wise, but I ended up using a thin piece of vinyl to cover the gaps. Needless to say, it is very recessed. :shrug:





I took some measurements on the knock-outs:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I recently found a dealer that sells the fog light switch that mounts in the switch blanks. It's part number 00016-32230-02 and sells for about $20 here:

TRD Parts Center

The switch looks like this, but does NOT come with the connector:



This picture is from this Australian site that also sells Toyota switches:

Newpro-Tech
 

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And the switch can handle 15A?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm no electrical engineer, but doesnt it make more sense to keep the relay but get a switch rigged to the low -current side( trigger side) of the relay... instead of taking the full- current jumper wires all the way to the switch and back?
 

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And the switch can handle 15A?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm no electrical engineer, but doesnt it make more sense to keep the relay but get a switch rigged to the low -current side( trigger side) of the relay... instead of taking the full- current jumper wires all the way to the switch and back?
That makes perfect sense, BUT, if you were to leave the switch on, then the relay would remain energized. It may only be a few hundred milliamp draw, but it would tend to drain your battery over an extended time period.
 

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And the switch can handle 15A?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm no electrical engineer, but doesnt it make more sense to keep the relay but get a switch rigged to the low -current side( trigger side) of the relay... instead of taking the full- current jumper wires all the way to the switch and back?
I was worried about the fog light switch rating too. Any switches for lights probably don't need to be rated for 15 amps.

Yes, I thought about using a switch to energize the relay, but I was concerned that applying power to the top of the relay meant it was also going to the output pin of the IC that was designed to turn it on unless I threw in an extra diode to prevent that (much more involved). I wasn't sure if it would cause any problems to the IC. Also, as JuneBug said, it would mean the relay would be energized constantly, maybe unnecessary battery drain when not needed but also reducing the life of the relay (probably not much though). Third and last, the switch I found was rated for 20A and crimping quick-disconnect terminals to a pair of 12" wires was really easy. (Didn't need 12", but it allowed for routing the wires around the dimmer switch and off to the side of the access panel.)

I do prefer the idea of having the normal operation with a switch to make it optionally full-time. I'll have to see about soldering the switch wires to the relay contact pins. Sadly, I don't think there is room for that to stick out from under the relay.
 

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I just performed this mod with a twist. Found these "chair" adapters that happen to have exactly the correct size and spaced connectors. I just covered the back of the "chair" (if you will) with shrink tubing and then, after removing the OEM relay, I used a long nose plier to easily insert it. It went in like it was designed to fit there!
 

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No thanks. Bad idea. It's safer to have them off with the ignition anyway.
Can't imagine what the safety concern is. All the domestic brand cars I've ever owned have the DC outlets hot all the time, going back decades. Of course if you leave something plugged in and run the battery down, you can only blame yourself.
 

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In your case I believe you will find the relay panel behind the glove box.
Thank you for this. I finally got round to doing this tonight. I removed the relay and replaced it with a bit of wire. For safety, I fitted an in-line fuse on this wire and fitted a 10Amp fuse (should be more than enought for what I use!)
Thank you for your assistance.
Darren
 

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Thank you for this. I finally got round to doing this tonight. I removed the relay and replaced it with a bit of wire. For safety, I fitted an in-line fuse on this wire and fitted a 10Amp fuse (should be more than enought for what I use!)
Thank you for your assistance.
Darren
That circuit is already fused, but there's no harm adding another.
 

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Awesome write up. The pics really take any question out of what you need to do. Just took care of it this afternoon and it worked perfectly. Thanks!
 
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