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Hi,

How about the 4.4 ... where can I find a main power source that's not switched ?

Im tempted to simply push a wire into the "big fat white wire" that is clearly the battery feed into the fuse/relay box that your photos also show (with a fuse of course) and rewire one of the 12v sockets under the AC controls.

Cheers

Simon
You need to ask that question over in the 4.4 forum. They will likely have the answer for you.

.
 

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Thanks everyone for their input; I just modified my 2012 Rav4 with a jumper to get the center front seat console outlet hot all the time. My question is this: I have three relays as pictured on the first page of this thread; what do the other two relays do (I jumpered the second one from the bottom as described)?

Is there a way to get the 12 vdc outlet below the AC controls to be hot all the time also? I realize that it's on a separate circuit from the posts here; where is the relay for that circuit? Is there anything else on that circuit that would make it not a good idea for it to be hot at all times? Thanks for any assistance in advance.


Anyone know the answer to this I to would rather the outlet below the AC hot all the time?
 

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Anyone know the answer to this I to would rather the outlet below the AC hot all the time?
Believe me, I've studied the schematics. The 12V power jack in the front is controlled from the ignition switch--it doesn't go through a relay like the other two. If you want it hot all the time you would have to run a separate wire to it from the fuse box.
 

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Job done... 12 live, 12 lights, 4 foot-well courtesy lights.

Having spent all evening "changing things" then rebuilding the dash (again) I now have the answers. It feels strange answering my own questions but I guess there are not many people who move from Landrover (where you HAVE to know how to fix-it or have a big bank account) to Toyota.

The courtesy lights mod is very well detailed elsewhere (can someone add a link?) so I wont go over that - the wires are very thin... I almost didn't "do it" when I saw them. But hey... its a wire and I have a soldering iron - in the end it wasn't needed, but I did need to refit and close the clasps (the grey and yellow wires are so thin that the clips didn't make contact)

So... as we all know, under the drivers knee is the mini fuse box with, micro fuses. These are new to me... but the mini bypasses fit perfectly.

Fuses 0-8 or so are permanently live. 8 being the aux-power sockets that we dont seem to have in the back (for the compressor when you have no spare wheel perhaps ? I'll dismantle the boot and see if the car is pre-wired another day. There is a 15 amp fuse here so the wire should be quite noticeable.)

For "Live 12V," I placed a fuse bypass in socket 0. Couldn't be easier !! Loaded with its own 10A (red) fuse its fully protected and doesn't require any cuts or splices. I added a small-illuminated-when-on switch that reminds me its on, and hid it under the dash above the clutch pedal. The LED is bright enough that you can see it light up the floor at night and can almost see it in the day. Im not sure which is the biggest risk - leaving a simple LED on or risking that the drinks cooler eats the battery !! The wires then run behind the knee air bag (along the bottom) up the center console to the console back plate.

For 12v-lights-on, you can choose between fuses 19 and 20, both are switched by the lights controller. I placed another fuse bypass in place of fuse 20 to feed the glove box light, added a 10A (red) fuse to re-protect the existing circuit and a 3A (clear) fuse for the glove box LED's.

For the earth point, un-clip the plastic cover beneath and to the left of the bonnet release that "hides" the connectors to the left of the foot well. This are is full of connectors and leads and ... an earth point. I removed the battery connection at this point - I didn't want circuits getting 12v and no earth. Gently undo the 10mm bolt that holds existing white/black wires in place, put your tinned wire (ie soldered, not bear wire) behind the upper part (its a clamp) and tighten again - very tight.

I've now had my car just under a week and it has floor lights in both foot arches (6 stip LED), center lights (3 strip LED, twice) above the existing switched 12v sockets, illuminated glove compartment (6 strip LED), rear floor lights (wired in, not fitted yet, probably double 3 strip LED either side of the console pointing sideways) and rear 12 live (awaiting the 12v/USB connector). The back-of-console plate was hard to remove, so I removed the whole console and found out why... there are clips inside that are designed to resist. Press the clip lock slightly and the back plate falls out with no resistance.

Photos ...? Not unless someone needs them... its all straight forward.

If your dismantling the center console, just remember the four screws at the font of the console - two on either side - two are easy to get to (both are under the front of the main drinks/gear lever over), two are covered - the one on the front left needs you to remove the decoration pillar to the left of the lower 12v socket, the one to the front right needs you to remove the tray under the 12V sockets (there is a little flip-me-here slot in the center of the rear-edge of the tray, gear lever side). This exposes the "hidden" screws that holds the whole thing together. I did not manage to un-clip the tray-holder-screw from the side panel, I took the whole lot out together - having undone the screw, its becomes flexible enough to move.

Besides, mine is all rebuilt now.... :)

I hope this is useful to someone, had I know this a week ago, I'd have only had to dismantle it once !

And as always with these things... changing your car may invalidate your warranty, so do so at your own risk and enjoy the changes when you do.
 

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The blue wire in the photos has power all the time. Pull the connector out of it's socket and tap into the wire, or cut it and make a three way connection with a wire nut and a fuse holder, then plug the connector back into the socket. The jumpering of the relay terminals could present a safety problem.
 

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Believe me, I've studied the schematics. The 12V power jack in the front is controlled from the ignition switch--it doesn't go through a relay like the other two. If you want it hot all the time you would have to run a separate wire to it from the fuse box.
Actually there is an easier way. I routed a new wire to the white wire on the left side of the dash that's for the tow prep. I then installed a fuse in the fwd right fuse box and now I have fused constant power all the time at the front jack.

Rick
 

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when i got my rav4 i was wondering why toyota didn't make them live all the time
 

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Discussion Starter #69
when i got my rav4 i was wondering why toyota didn't make them live all the time
Because that's always been an American thing. All the Japanese cars I've ever owned had switched outlets.
 

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has anyone done thing and has anyone had any problems with this???
 

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has anyone done thing and has anyone had any problems with this???

No problem whatsoever. l had a bunch of chair connectors. Slipped one in, clipped off the back. Done and good to go.
 

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Angel Eyes

Hey, I just got angel eyes for Gen 3, and was looking for a way to connect them as DRL (mine doesn't have this feature) does anyone know where can I locate an Ignition Switched connection or fuse inside the motor compartment so I can splice into it?
 

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Will This work for me??

I know this forum says it's for RAV-4, but just hoping someone has been able to make this work with a 2007 Camry XLE? Same issue: Outlets only on when key is on. Need to charge cell phones sometimes, you know?

This is a pretty simple mod that will allow your 12 volt power outlets in the console and cargo areas to be hot even when the ignition switch is off. The power outlet below the A/C controls will not be affected--it's on a different circuit and will still be tied to the ignition.

Start by removing the panel above the hood release. If you're careful, you can use a thin blade screwdriver to pop it loose on the right hand side. Use a rag to keep from scratching the adjacent panel. Once you get that top right corner loose, you can pull the panel towards you and remove it:



Notice the 3 blue relays on the left. The relay we want is the one in the middle.



Remove the power relay by pulling it straight out. You may have to rock it back and forth a bit. To make it easier for my big hands, I removed the pink IG1 relay first.



Now that the relay is out, you can see how I soldered a jumper wire across the copper colored contacts. This completes the circuit to the power outlets regardless of whether the relay is picked up or not.



Try to solder the jumper wire as close to the relay housing as possible, so it can be re-inserted into the socket.



Others have left the relay out and inserted a jumper wire across the relay socket. That works fine but be sure to use the proper crimp connectors on the jumper. This is a handy mod if you want to use 12 volt accessories, especially in the cargo area.
 

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On my old Prius, I left the rear light on (it is the same for the RAV4) while parked at the airport for 10 days. Had to get a jump to start the Prius although once the Ready relay picked up, the BIG battery charged the 12 V version. So if you leave the switch in the ON position, the battery will be drained eventually.

Glad to have a "regular" sized battery in the RAV4, that small battery in the Prius was very expensive to replace and no one but Toyota had a replacement.
 

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Old thread, but I still wanted to thank you for the info. Happy to be a part of this forum and appreciate the tips.
Did mine today by using a jumper. Now I can leave my phone in the console getting charged while I am at work or whatever. Thanks again.
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