Like many others on this forum, ive seen a need to improve the audio sound of the my 2015 rav4 xle.
my upgrades so far
Metra 82-8148 6-Inch to 6-3/4-Inch Speaker Adapter for Toyota/Lexus/Scion 1998-Up (Black)
Rockford P1650 6.5-Inch 2-Way Full Range Euro Fit Compatible Speaker
Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SE 240W 6.5" Punch Series Euro Fit Compatible 2-Way Component System w/ External Crossover Network
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SE 240W 6.5" Punch Series Euro Fit Compatible 2-Way Component System w/ External Crossover Network : Car Electronics
Did I see a improvement? Yes, No, Mixed )
The component tweeters are amazing they brought out high frequencys in the music that I never heard with the stock tweeters. Because I favor mid bass range more than high frquencys I have to turn down HIGH setting on stock radio 3 clicks.
The component woofers in the front sound great, if you turn bass setting up 3 clicks on factory radio
The P1650 in the rear improved maybe a little, the stock radio rear wattage suck. Im maybe getting half the volume as the front speakers. Same as before.
Radio volume setting of 40 to 45
I had plans on buying R600X5 amp and placing it in the tray to the left of the spare wheel.
PRIME Amplifiers - R600X5 - Rockford Fosgate®
I've changed my mind and decided that the next upgrade should be a new HU radio.
Factory speaker magnet is the diameter of a quarter, with a paper cone that makes sound as you rub your finger across it.(wow that's what 25k buys me)
The problem with the stock radio.
I believe the stock radio is not giving the same wattage and full frequency response to all 4 channels(speakers). I don't know the exact wattage but ill guess based on my observations.
at volume setting 30, front speakers 5 watts, rear speakers 2 watts
at volume setting 40, front speakers 8 watts, rear speakers 4 watts
So with the above guessing, if I connect a 5 channel amp and set my gains to compensate for the stock radio rear reduced wattage, I would be set? No, don't think I will. Because maybe when I increase or decrease volume, the front to rear wattage ratio my change.
So any upgrade made should be a new radio )
Should I get the DDX9902S
DDX9902S | eXcelon | CAR ENTERTAINMENT | Kenwood USA
or wait for the wireless android auto version to come out?
Tips and advice on speakers install
Hardest part was tweeter install. Basicly you destroy the factory tweeter which is kinda glued into the factory tweeter mount. I used a dremel tool to cut a bigger hole out of the factory mount. The tweeter mounting kit came with 3 different types of mounting hardware. the tweeter mounted flush with small lip. The tweeter did not stick out past the foam circle lip. So the tweeter never touches the underside of the factory dash speaker grill. Perfect fit. Cut the 4 factory wires, fiqure out which wires go to door speaker. Hook up the crossover , which is very small, with sticky glue on bottom which I attached right near the mount to what appears to be a plastic a/c vent. When you first remove the dash tweeter you will notice a tab that you can release that is attached to the frame of the dash this will allow a little more wire to work with. For me it wasn't enough, I put down a towel on dash and made the 2 wires longer by soldering on 7 more inchs of wire to it making it a little more easier to get to. Est. of hours on dash speakers is 4 hours of work for me, part of which was trying to fiqure out how I was going attach tweeter to factory mount. I used the Rockford fosgate wires that came with the crossovers. Before you start pushing wire connectors into the crossover make damn sure you are pushing them into the right connector because they are almost impossible to get out and you could loosen the connection to the motherboard of the crossover. Are there better bigger crossovers out there. Sure there is but if you get any bigger you would have to put the crossover in the door somehow and still have to rerun wires back to the dash tweeter.
front and back speakers
the metra speaker adaptor kit comes with bolts but imo are to long(long bolts would go though the adaptor and touch frame, maybe cause rattling noise), went to lowes and bought #8-32 x 1 it came in 100 pcs and had bolts with them.
I used a dremel with cutting disk to cut the outside rivets all off, removed speaker adapter then used large tape to hold inside rivet in place while I cut the outside rivet off (tape makes sure rivet don't fall inside door panel and rattle) Others suggest drilling out the rivets, you could if you have a magnet to get the small pieces out of the inside of the door, or just let them rattle)
To attach the adaptor to the frame I used the above bolts and nuts but added a small and large washer outside and put small washer inside.(used a large washer outside because it provided better tighten surface against the plastic mount, so not to crack the bracket.) Also used blue Loctite on the bolts and added 2 nuts instead of 1 , don't over tighen you will break bolts, like I did once>( Wire up the speaker with the tweeter facing up(for back door). used blue Loctite on bolts that I screwed the speaker to adapter plate, one Front door I used all the bolt holes , which was a pain in the ass. On the other 3 doors I just used 4 bolts to attach the speaker to the adaptor. more than adequate. I guess you could use screws if they were right length and would not crack the adaptor holes as you screw them in, you could use your own judgement.
I bought some Dynamat SuperLite around 40 bucks on amazon. On the front and back doors I placed a large section on the inside which would be directly behind the speakers. On the outside part of the the door frame I didn't place much, mainly around the speaker and what areas I could. I did not remove the factory plastic weather stripping. On the inside don't cover your water drainage holes. Yah water gets in their and no you don't need speaker baffles.