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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just signed up on this forum. I have some concerns about my 2007 Rav4 Limited V6 4WD. A little background info; I bought it 2.5 years ago. 90k miles. 110k current miles. Only major issue is that I needed to replace the water pump. Minor issues are that I had a gasket replaced to fix a small oil leak on the engine.(can get more info on this if needed). For the last 3 months or so the Rav4 idles at over 2000 rpm. It shifts gears at about 3.5-4000 rpm. Before that it was idle at about 1100 rpm and shifting at aprox. 2200-3000 rpm. I've read about this issue possibly being related to a sensor such as O2 sensor that might be dirty. I know very little about cars but I can't afford to get ripped off by my dealership. I was looking to see if we can pinpoint the issue and get a rough estimate on how much I should be paying to get it fixed.

This is not the only issue I have but it is the highest priority. Other issues I will ask in future posts that include, rear link pin replacement estimated cost, and other smaller issues not related too the above issue or engine/transmission in general.

Also looking for recommendations of a possible mechanic in the Midwest area. Rav4 specialist preferred with high rep from this community. I'm based out of Milwaukee area but would be willing to travel for the right mechanic.
Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome!
In the 7+ years I've been here I've never heard of such an issue and my own '06 V6 idles and runs just perfect.
My initial suspicion is it may be something simple like a hose inadvertently left disconnected when the gasket (yes, more info please) was replaced or other work done. But if not it could be something serious that may damage the transmission so it needs to be checked pronto. I'd always recommend a small independent shop over a big city Toyota dealer but if you can't find one I'd pay their diagnostic fee at the dealer.
I also wonder why you think your water pump needs replacement. Or are you saying that's already been done?
 

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[...] My initial suspicion is it may be something simple like a hose inadvertently left disconnected
I'll second that. I have not used the old water bottle drip test on the V6, but it saved my butt with a 280Z issue.

Get a squeezable bottle of water with squirt tip, and with the engine running start at the firewall, work slowly forward, dripping water to various points, especially hoses. If RPM suddenly changes, stop and look at the location. Use a strong flashlight. A little detached hose can make a difference.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My initial suspicion is it may be something simple like a hose inadvertently left disconnected when the gasket (yes, more info please) was replaced or other work done.
This is what my invoice reads for the gasket repair; "Tech found oil is leaking out from the back vvti line gasket. Removed and replaced the vvti back line gasket and de-greased off the oil lead mess."

The Idle RPM went from about 1100 to 2000 over the span of a month before I ever got the gasket fixed. From that point it went up to as high as 2500 rpm idle but it slowly over time has gone down too 2100 idle. Due to the time frame of when the engine started acting weird and when I got the gasket fixed I'm assuming there is no correlation but I certainly won't rule it out per your recommendation.


I also wonder why you think your water pump needs replacement. Or are you saying that's already been done?
The water pump was replaced a little over a year ago. I noticed it was pouring out fluid and my temps were sky rocketing. Luckily it was covered under my power train warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think what's strange is how the rpm idle and in general slowly over a long period of time went up little by little until it capped out at 2600 rpm idle and now its slowly gone down to sitting right about 2100. Unfortunately, I didin't have the money available to me to really get it looked it during that time but I do now, so I want to take care of it as precisely and cost-efficiently as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anymore input before I bring it into my dealership for full assessment?

I will be coming back to these forums after I get the results and quote from them and see what your opinions are.
 

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The only input I have which may be helpful is that my '11 V6 AWD RAV had maintained the same idle RPM (about 800) since I got it new. The idle on yours is much higher than spec.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, huge update. Two days ago my needle for my rpm literally fell off behind the glass. It's possible that it was loose or not calibrated and was actually displaying my rpm inaccurately.

Just got back from the dealership. They could not find any reason why my rpms were that high. Nothing in the computers or upon inspection showed any reason why it would be high.

These are the issues that I need fixed with my Rav which I will get done, and then hopefully the rpm will be better. If not we will need to dig deeper.

-Replace the entire cluster to replace the rpm needle. $892 for parts, $100 for labor LOL :( They said they cannot get just a new section of it so the entire unit must be replaced.

-Front pads and rotors $390

-rear sway bar links, both sides - $385

-oil pan gasket leaking $475

-Tune up $469

-throttle body cleaning upper engine decarb $216

-coolant flush $124

-trans flush $200

-driveline service $169

-brake fluid flush $120
 

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Now that's what I can truly call a stealership. Everything priced double what an independent shop would charge and easily 4-5 times a DIY price. Then throw in the net-needed upsells and you have a true big city rip off dealer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
:(

well at least the advantage is knowing that the work will be well done. With an independent shop it's a bit more up to chance. Not saying there is no possibility of bad work done at a dealership its just a bit more reliable since I have no trusted mechanic. Looking for one though in the Milwaukee/Chicago area if anyone knows one.

I just hope these fixes will help the rpm issue
 

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I just hope these fixes will help the rpm issue
First, since the needle definitely wasn't reading correctly, I wonder it the actual idle speed was ever off at all. Now let's take their proposed work one item at a time as to how it might affect actual idle speed.

-Replace the entire cluster to replace the rpm needle. $892 for parts, $100 for labor... No effect at all to actual rpm. No effect on anything to do with how the car actually runs. I'd get a used one from a yard if you really want a needle to look at.

-Front pads and rotors $390 - Obviously no effect on rpm.

-rear sway bar links, both sides $385 - no effect on rpm. I recently changed mine myself. May have cost me $75.

-oil pan gasket leaking $475 - never heard of that on a 4.3 but in any case no effect on rpm.

-Tune up $469 - If this means changing spark plugs that were defective that will raise the rpm.

-throttle body cleaning upper engine decarb $216 - This might actually do something and may in fact be the cure.

-coolant flush $124 - just an upsell, no effect on rpm.

-trans flush $200 - just an upsell, no effect on rpm.

-driveline service $169 - ??? no effect on rpm.

-brake fluid flush $120 - just an upsell, no effect on rpm.

Overall wallet flush, $3,540, but I'm confident they can find a few more things to add on that will also have no effect on rpm.
 
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Jeff, this whole saga does make me wonder if there ever was an actual engine idle speed issue. Or was the tachometer needle giving you false readings. The revs you mentioned would make the engine sound louder and be very obvious to any mechanic's ear. Shifting from Neutral to Drive would cause a lurch forward. At a stop you'd have to hold the brake on firmly to keep the car stopped.

And since you, admittedly I think, don't know much about mechanics I'd at least take it to an independent Toyota or foreign car specialist for a second opinion before spending dollar one at the dealer.

Also unless the dealer has some way to make a new cluster match your odometer it will be in error from now on. Maybe they can order them to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well that's actually good news that it might of just been the needle not being aligned properly. The Rav did not lurch forward upon shifting nor did i have to put any extra effort into the brakes while at a light. I'll keep you posted
 

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I wish I could look at the cluster. It might be possible to retrieve the needle and put it back on the tachometer shaft.
 

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MLWJeff, you really need to find a honest repair shop. The dealer charge the highest labour rate in the land and will up sell you repairs you do not need.

Go online and look at yelp.com and read some reviews for repair shops in Milwaukee where you live. Think things over if the repair is expensive and you feel the work sounds unnecessary.
 

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Ok, huge update. Two days ago my needle for my rpm literally fell off behind the glass. It's possible that it was loose or not calibrated and was actually displaying my rpm inaccurately.

Just got back from the dealership. They could not find any reason why my rpms were that high. Nothing in the computers or upon inspection showed any reason why it would be high.

These are the issues that I need fixed with my Rav which I will get done, and then hopefully the rpm will be better. If not we will need to dig deeper.

-Replace the entire cluster to replace the rpm needle. $892 for parts, $100 for labor LOL :( They said they cannot get just a new section of it so the entire unit must be replaced.

-Front pads and rotors $390

-rear sway bar links, both sides - $385

-oil pan gasket leaking $475

-Tune up $469

-throttle body cleaning upper engine decarb $216

-coolant flush $124

-trans flush $200

-driveline service $169

-brake fluid flush $120

Wow! That may be a new record for dealership rip-offs. I had thought that I might have held the record for dealer-attempted mostly unnecessary services (I refused all of the unnecessary ones,). :surprise
 

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I wish I could look at the cluster. It might be possible to retrieve the needle and put it back on the tachometer shaft.
Yep, same thinking here too. It's already broke so nothing to lose.
 

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Jeff, this whole saga does make me wonder if there ever was an actual engine idle speed issue. Or was the tachometer needle giving you false readings..

Also unless the dealer has some way to make a new cluster match your odometer it will be in error from now on. Maybe they can order them to match.
Agreed. How are the needles secured to their shafts? Press fit? And about matching old odometer readings with a new one, I had a similar situation with a Saturn with a defective speedo. The dealer obtained the cluster and took it to a shop which had the technology to accomplish that and the new one was successfully updated.
 

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Yep, same thinking here too. It's already broke so nothing to lose.
On the other hand since the OP apparently doesn't know what tachometer readings mean anyway, (no offense intended, just being realistic) why not leave it as it is? Whether or not it works has zero bearing on anything regarding how the car runs.
 

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On the other hand since the OP apparently doesn't know what tachometer readings mean anyway, (no offense intended, just being realistic) why not leave it as it is? Whether or not it works has zero bearing on anything regarding how the car runs.
Good point! I'm not sure why most cars have tachs today. I just leased a new Lexus RX350 a couple of weeks ago. Why on earth would it need a tach?
 
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