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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 240v receptacle at work right next to where I park my new RAV4Prime XSE
It was for a commercial air compressor so has a configuration I have never seen (see attached) I own the business and can do mods if necessary
I would like to use it for level 2 charging (4.5hrs) while I am at work.
I don’t know much about electric configurations just that I think this would be convenient if I could make it work.
Thanks in advance!
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2019 Rav4 Hybrid LE Super White
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Looks like an L15-30R receptacle (Here it is on the manufacture’s website)

the trick will be finding a male L-15-30R to female NEMA 14-50 adapter. I’ve looked but no luck (note that I’m not an electrician, and if you find such an adapter I make no promises it doesn’t let all the smoke out of the electronics as soon as you plus it in… but I’d have to assume the charging cord is fused somewhere, even if it’s a fuse that bricks the untit, to stop bad things from happening when you plug into high voltage)
 

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well its a good indication you may have 30 amps available but you want to be sure . check the breaker and check the wire size before you do anything else . you may just need to replace the receptacle .
I second this wholeheartedly. Replacing the receptacle with something more universal would be easy. Double checking the gauge of the wire and the breaker is going to be most important.

My house has the same outlet in the garage. I thought hey, if ever get an EV that might be the way I go to charge it! I opened up my two panels last week to see if I could install a whole house surge protector. I have two 200A panels side by side and both are wired as if they are main (one isn’t a subpanel). To my surprise, that receptacle is wired to not one of my service panels but BOTH. For some bizarre reason it is wired to a 30 amp breaker on each of the separate panels. Both breakers have always been flipped off but now ripping that wiring and receptacle out is on my to do list. Absolutely bizarre.

I have another receptacle next to it that looks like the normal 120 receptacle, but has the little extra horizontal cutout typical of some 220 volt outlets. I looked at that wiring and it’s wired for 220 to a 30 amp breaker, but the wiring is nowhere thick enough. Looks like standard 14 gauge wire. Previous homeowner did a crap job! I’m going to replace that wiring with a much thicker and appropriate gauge to meet code, likely change the receptacle to the type you’d find for a clothes dryer, and install a 40 or 50 amp breaker if the panel can support it. Plenty of space in the panel but need to see what the other breakers add up to first.
 

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First, I would verify no one at work has issues with you taking a bit of juice. Ask what a Kwh costs and tell them that you will seldom if ever use over 10 kwh. Or perhaps you are the boss, so yeah!!!

I would not sweat verifying the amperage capacity of that circuit. For a Prime, there is nary any 240v circuits out there that cannot handle your portable EVSE.

But, the factory 120V EVSE has the wrong plug, though all posts indicate it can take 240v just fine. You need an adaptor that takes the L15-30R to your 120v plug. The 120v plug neutral and hot contacts become the two opposing 240v legs. Ground remains ground always. The neutral from the L15-30R is not used and is not needed as the EVSE has GF Protection built in. This adaptor DOES NOT EXIST commercially. Could never be UL listed, as some idiot would fry themselves with it.

Good chance some entrepreneur on ebay might just have one. Check it out.

Just about anyone handy with some electrical wire and plugs could build you one too. If you were around Kansas City, I'd tell you to come by and we would make one. No way am I posting further instructions.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice. It was working just over a year ago for some guys I rented that space to for building bicycle frames. They had a huge air compressor hooked up to it outside. The whole place used to be a machine shop with something called “3-phase” power everywhere…I am confident there is enough power…I will call my electrician and have him come by and check everything out to the breaker. Then I’ll see how much to replace the receptacle with something standard.
Yes, I’m the boss, so all good there, unless my electrician is getting divorced and ups his rates 😂🤷‍♂️
So another question, what about this level two charger? It’s $180 and most of the others I see are twice that. 🤷‍♂️
Lectron NEMA 10-30 Level 2 EV Charger - 240V / 16 Amp - with 21 ft Extension Cord - Compatible with J1772 EVs https://a.co/d/3j5J228
 

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ah ha 3 phase ...thats a slightly different animal . well you really need to check the wire size . the breaker as well and unfortunately may need to be changed your electrician will need to see that to know for sure . most electricians are ok with three phase systems but some do have issues with it . id be mentioning this to your electrician prior to his arrival just for a heads up .

hey on the up side and you want to go nuts . you can buy a full ev super car with a crazy big ass battery and install a dc fast charger lol.
 

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oh sorry forgot to mention the lectron seems ok but i have no good info on it so i have no recommendation . i am in the future proof boat of go big but i do realise cost can be an issue . id say find out what your circuit can handle first then make a decision on the eves .
 

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Aw crap, I missed the L15 part. Just was thinking L14 and went from there. Also mis-typed L4 in my first post which I corrected.

So the L15 plug is indeed rated to 250v, which is what you MIGHT see in 3 phase, and L15 is a designated 3phase plug, though. Your electrician cannot just "switch out the plug". 3 phase is another beast entirely. More commonly I think is 208v

Would the stock EVSE from Toyota handle 250v? I highly doubt anyone has tried. Would it handle 208v. Almost certainly. But my prior comments should be ingored.

You better get your electrician involved before he gets a divorce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Aw crap, I missed the L15 part. Just was thinking L14 and went from there. Also mis-typed L4 in my first post which I corrected.

So the L15 plug is indeed rated to 250v, which is what you MIGHT see in 3 phase, and L15 is a designated 3phase plug, though. Your electrician cannot just "switch out the plug". 3 phase is another beast entirely. More commonly I think is 208v

Would the stock EVSE from Toyota handle 250v? I highly doubt anyone has tried. Would it handle 208v. Almost certainly. But my prior comments should be ingored.

You better get your electrician involved before he gets a divorce.
I will be getting my ‘lectrician involved (his name is Charlie, and is old and super knowledgeable about all things having to do with electrical connections. A total “by the book” guy, but he is not familiar with the charger needs, there are just too many different permutations and standards . I just need to know what charger y’all recommend for level 2 charging a RAV4 Prime, and what the best most universal receptacle needs to be and I can tell him to do it and it will be done.
Thanks in advance for recommendations.
 

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well that is difficult as there are a couple of three phase systems in use . if yours is the four wire wye you are in luck . if not it may be moot . fist find what power can be supplied will take him 10 mins . that will let you know what eves you can use . without knowing what kind of power that can be supplied no one can tell you what eves system you can use .

whatever eves you choose will dictate what receptacle you need . gotta put the horse before the cart .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well that is difficult as there are a couple of three phase systems in use . if yours is the four wire wye you are in luck . if not it may be moot . fist find what power can be supplied will take him 10 mins . that will let you know what eves you can use . without knowing what kind of power that can be supplied no one can tell you what eves system you can use .

whatever eves you choose will dictate what receptacle you need . gotta put the horse before the cart .
Ok, I will ask him to check the system in place and report back here. Seems to be the best course of action, and I am in no hurry.

My regular home charger is just fine for now, I get home every day by 6 and take my kid to school and go to work at 7ish the next morning.And I average about 10-15 miles a day anyway. Just want the option
Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
OK, Charlie the electrician came over says that my chosen receptacle is 3-Phase power and apparently that is not an easy thing to change. (It IS 4-wires 3-Hot + 1-Gr , no neutral...for what its worth...I am told that is what they call "Old-School Three Phase") He gave me a few options:
1. Find a 3-Phase EVSE and Bob's your uncle! (unknown cost)
2. There is an existing 240v 1-Phase outlet we found in the building and run from there 1 new wire added to the existing (no idea why that is necessary but whatever) and put in 14-30 receptacle and buy ClipperCreek AmazingE 1772 EVSE (He likes that brand as they are UL listed, out of Idaho, and they answer the phone when needed...so apparently worth the additional $150 over the cheaper one) ($330 for the EVSE and $600 for the labor and parts to run wire and change the existing receptacle to 14-30)
3. Say "fuggetaboutit..." and just charge my girly little RAV4-Prime battery on the standard 110v that it came with and call it a day. (Cost= ++$930 saved + a 12-Pack of something called WhiteClaw for Charlie's time today
 

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Aw, bummer! I learned something new today. I have a some experience with residential wiring, so three phase found in some commercial applications is a learning opportunity for me.

Option 2 makes sense to me. It sounds like he would just run wiring from that existing outlet to wherever you want outside. Ideally the existing interior outlet would be on an exterior wall, allowing you to run the new outlet wiring through that wall to the outside. If it’s on an interior wall, that’s going to be trickier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Aw, bummer! I learned something new today. I have a some experience with residential wiring, so three phase found in some commercial applications is a learning opportunity for me.

Option 2 makes sense to me. It sounds like he would just run wiring from that existing outlet to wherever you want outside. Ideally the existing interior outlet would be on an exterior wall, allowing you to run the new outlet wiring through that wall to the outside. If it’s on an interior wall, that’s going to be trickier.
4th Option just explained to me from guy at ClipperCreek (good service company...high recommend)...He says something about "using the existing 3-Phase my electrician should be able to Cap off 1 hot, make sure the other 2 are 120v each, and also make sure that the "neutral is bonding to Ground at the main service" (whatever all that means)... and then hardwire their LCS-20 unit instead of the AmazingE portable unit ($379)

Its all Greek to me (there are other subjects I am a whiz at, but not electicals) but it may be an option #4
 

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ya not sure what he means about old school three phase . sounds like a three wire delta system . i was hoping for the for wire wye as its the most common and useful for your situation .

however im a little confused . where is the single phase 240 being run from ? did he check the wires coming into the main panel ? three power wires means delta three and a neutral mean wye . did he check the voltages across each line ? did he check wire size ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ya not sure what he means about old school three phase . sounds like a three wire delta system . i was hoping for the for wire wye as its the most common and useful for your situation .

however im a little confused . where is the single phase 240 being run from ? did he check the wires coming into the main panel ? three power wires means delta three and a neutral mean wye . did he check the voltages across each line ? did he check wire size ?
I believe he did check the wires and voltage all the way back to the mains. I only know what I was told, electric not my thing, he said it is 3-Phase with 3-hot + 1-Ground
The 240 is a separate line we found in the building on the wall very close to the conduit for the existing 3-Phase outlet (this used to be a machine shop so there is outlets coming out of everywhere including the ceiling). He ran that one all the way back to the main as well and said this would work. But I just got off phone with ClipperCreek and the guy there says that the 3 phase will work if we do something called cap off one of the hots, make sure the main service end neutral is bonded to ground and do a hardwire install... Know Charlie, my electrician, he will not want to do this, it sounds "risky" and he doesn't do "risky" :)
 

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4th Option just explained to me from guy at ClipperCreek (good service company...high recommend)...He says something about "using the existing 3-Phase my electrician should be able to Cap off 1 hot, make sure the other 2 are 120v each, and also make sure that the "neutral is bonding to Ground at the main service" (whatever all that means)... and then hardwire their LCS-20 unit instead of the AmazingE portable unit ($379)

Its all Greek to me (there are other subjects I am a whiz at, but not electicals) but it may be an option #4
i think they believe you have a four wire wye as you can get two 120s out of that witch will get you 208 v total ( long explanation ... its a phase thing ) but if its a delta the smallest voltage you should be able to get per line is 240 v.
 

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I believe he did check the wires and voltage all the way back to the mains. I only know what I was told, electric not my thing, he said it is 3-Phase with 3-hot + 1-Ground
The 240 is a separate line we found in the building on the wall very close to the conduit for the existing 3-Phase outlet (this used to be a machine shop so there is outlets coming out of everywhere including the ceiling). He ran that one all the way back to the main as well and said this would work. But I just got off phone with ClipperCreek and the guy there says that the 3 phase will work if we do something called cap off one of the hots, make sure the main service end neutral is bonded to ground and do a hardwire install... Know Charlie, my electrician, he will not want to do this, it sounds "risky" and he doesn't do "risky" :)
i know a bit about this stuff and ya got me confused lol . oh well if you have an overhead feed ya should be able to see how many wires are feeding the building . is it three or four ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i think they believe you have a four wire wye as you can get two 120s out of that witch will get you 208 v total ( long explanation ... its a phase thing ) but if its a delta the smallest voltage you should be able to get per line is 240 v.
Thanks! Well, I proposed Option#4 it to Charlie and as expected, he said "No, I am not doing that" so now I just need to decide how important it is for me to say I have Level2 charging capability at my office? Because even at today's prices for $1000 I could probably buy more gas than I will use in 5 years with this car! Its pretty much just a "that would be cool" kind of thing but not necessary 🙄 😂
 
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