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Discussion Starter #1
OK I am new here and I dont want to dump a whole ton of money into this car without having a general idea of what area to look at. I have a 1996 Rav4. I have replaced the Distributor, spark plugs, Ignition Module, Coil, The battery and a few other things.

My issue:

The car will start and it idles perfectly fine. Once I start to ramp up the RPMs past say 3k or into 4k it starts stalling out and then dies. I try to turn it on and sometimes it will sometimes it wont start and I am under the impression that it is flooding so i wait a few hours before I can try to start it again. Prior to replacing the Distributor I rented a Code checker and the only error code it threw out was the code for the camshaft sensor (which in the 96 is built directly into the distributor). I replaced the distributor and it would not start. The next day I tried to start it again and it turned right on. It idled for a good 30 min and i turned it off. I turned it back on and same thing, it idled fine. One I decided to ramp up the RPMs it seemed to just die. I am told its flooding that's why i have to wait so long to have it want to turn on again. I have no idea what the problem could be. It is also noted that the coil was salvaged from a junk yard and the ignition module as well. I don't think its the module or else it wouldn't start at all I would assume. Any one know what could be going on?
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Start with checking your grounds, just go ahead and replace that little short negative battery cable and run at least a 4 gauge wire from the battery ground point to the closest engine hook. This may not fix your issue but it is a known problem area with the RAV4. Bad grounds can shorten the life of other electrical components from the alternator to coils and even the ECU. If this resolves your issue there is a recommended ground upgrade, see - http://www.rav4world.com/brochure/derek/ground_wires_part1.pdf and http://www.rav4world.com/brochure/derek/ground_wires_part2.pdf.

Another issue I've heard of is that the Toyota ECU doesn't like aftermarket coils, if yours' aren't genuine Toyota it may be a factor. Believe me when I say that I don't usually push the overpriced Toyota parts.

Check the fuel system, it isn't very likely engine flooding on a running warmed up engine, it is more likely fuel starvation. Rent a fuel pressure tester and check the output on the fuel pump, it is not enough that it just works, it has to maintain enough pressure at all times.

If you feel you have to send it out for repair, don't send it to a dealership, find a reputable mom and pop shop, preferably one that specializes in diagnostics.

I will work with you, all I ask is that you have the courtesy to keep your progress up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info! So you think that maybe it's not mainting fuel pressure once I ramp up the rpm? I didn't think it was a fuel issue because it idles fine without any issues and accelerates to a certain point just fine.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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It may very well be a fuel issue, fuel issues may or may not code, there are no sensors for fuel pressure. It could show up as a lean issue, but maybe not. A failing fuel pump can drive you mad trying to diagnose.

Bad grounds will drive you crazy often with weird intermittent problems that can seem unrelated, it can cause all kinds of codes to pop up and clear them as well.

Several people have posted problems with coils and a few have had problems with aftermarket ones. You can test them, pull the plugs and check by propping the sparkplug up about 3/4" from a good ground and observe the spark, a good col should throw a bright white or blueish white spark that distance. Check all cylinders.

A really trusted mechanic also tells me that NGK platinum spark plugs are all anyone should be running on the street.
 

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Among many things, could be a bad fuel filter (underhood, not easy to change!) or in-tank inlet, or a bad gas cap not venting (try driving fast with the gas cap loose; replace with an OEM one only). Also replace the air filter if not near-new.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will try those things thanks guys. I tried starting it this morning and still won't start. I believe the fuel pump is under the back drivers side seat. Is there one or two fuel filters on a 96 ?
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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The fuel pump is in the gas tank, access is through the back driver's side seat as you stated if you have a 4 seater left hand drive RAV4. Don't just replace it, unless you test it and it tests bad. If you replace the fuel pump, also replace the intake "strainer".

There is one fuel filter, it is directly below the larger breaker/fuse box on the driver's side wheel well. To get to it you will have to remove some of the air intake equipment. Take pictures so you know how it all goes back together. To hook up the fuel pressure test gauge it is easier to connect it at the fuel filter than to try to get to the fuel rail.

I agree the gas cap/evap system could also cause this problem but it will usually throw codes for the IAT and/or EGR system. Worth checking out though.

While mucking about with the fuel filter check the evap cannister, vacuum lines, connectors and the test port (the green cap) and that there are no apparent cracks. See https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0N4qdhM8CoaMlhvaWJCQTg0QUU. In the photo you can see the fuel filter over to the right of the evap cannister. The air filter that you see on mine is because I have installed a different air intake system (see - http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications/244849-air-intake-mods.html)

If you haven't replaced your vacuum hoses now would be a good time to do it, I recommend high temperature silicone hoses. While replacing them, move the EGR VSV to the firewall so you never have to try to get to it again in the current location on the back side of the engine in the gap of the intake manifold (it is really difficult if you have a 4x4). You can do a quick search through the threads and it will tell you how to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Once this rain stops I'll get some of these things tested. So any of these possible issues would make it to where the engine won't start for like more then a day or intermittently ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some of the guys down at AutoZone seem to think maybe it's the airflow house maybe or an airflow problem. either that or a fuel line hose is collapsing once I get up to those rpms and then it just can't get fuel anymore and shuts off and then stays collapsed due to pressure and then maybe that's why it takes off the car to want to start again because it takes a while for the pressure to leave relieved
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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It's not hard to replace all the soft fuel lines, I suppose it's possible but to let you know the pressure doesn't bleed off the fuel system for a long time. If it is that it will show up with a fuel pump pressure test, rent a gauge from autozone and check it out.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Once this rain stops I'll get some of these things tested. So any of these possible issues would make it to where the engine won't start for like more then a day or intermittently ?
Fuel system - Whether it's a failing line or fuel pump could result in a lot of problems - may or may not throw any codes, no sensors in the fuel system

Bad grounds - Would effect any and every system in the car intermittently, weather changes are likely to make it worse - may or may not throw codes and it could clear them if it cuts power to the right systems

Vacuum leaks - Could as well depending on the areas involved - it should throw codes for running lean

Fuel system seal - Gas cap, fuel lines, fuel return line, evap system could cause problems - it should throw codes

Bad coils - If they are just weak they could cause all sorts of problems, intermittently but particularly at higher RPMs. - this should also throw codes.

Air intake system - Not sealed properly, holes in the intake hose, cracked or poorly sealed air box can cause problems although I don't think it would make it stall. A badly contaminated filter or plugged intake coulds cause many problems as well.

Keep us posted

Diagnostics: Spark, Fuel, Air
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's an update, replaced the distributor after the camshaft sensor code came up , replaced the fuel filter, got a new coil because I want getting any spark at all anymore so once I installed the coil and tried to start it still no spark. The right amount of volte came up when testing it 12v. But no output/spark from the new coil at all. I heard that autozones electronics are crap and never work. Is that true ?
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Discussion Starter #15
So I had my dad come out and use his multimeter to test the coil on the car that was originally on it before I got and returned the one to autozone. My auto manual says that the coil was supposed to be between .2 - and 4 ohm or volts I don't remember but the reeding we got was 11 so isn't that an open ? Therefor a bad coil ?
 

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A couple of years ago I had a coil pack die on my 2000. I went the cheap route, via RockAuto, but replaced both:

WPS / POWER SELECT CUF180 and CUF181

No problems with them so far, fortunately.

I should still have the OEM coil that was still working, if anyone is interested.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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So I had my dad come out and use his multimeter to test the coil on the car that was originally on it before I got and returned the one to autozone. My auto manual says that the coil was supposed to be between .2 - and 4 ohm or volts I don't remember but the reeding we got was 11 so isn't that an open ? Therefor a bad coil ?
Definitely out of specs and should be replaced.
 
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