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Discussion Starter #1
Hai guys,

New member here!! bought a 2016 RAV XLE. current black metalic
need suggestion for modification
i ordered mud flap and body side molding from the dealer, but the dealer want to charge me 130 for installation.
Anybody bought warrenty from person name jerry midwest toyota? I don't know warrenty is necessary

I am thinking about covering the silver skid plate in the front and the back and the roof rail with some 3m matching wrap, i have to pay somebody to do that, if i do should i match the paint color or do the black, any other option
I live in Chicago so im thinking about doing undercoating, maybe 3m clear protection in the frond bumber which i got a qoute $ 300.00
also planing to do the fabric protection, anybody did that in zebart ?
where i can get some led bulbs for the interior and exterior.
i want to do hid but may be put some white bulb, any suggestion with the bulb.
what about changing the parking light to a white led bulb.
Thanks in advance for all the inputs.
 

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make sure you read the instructions for the BSM install, I have never seen an accessory come with such detailed measurements.

http://www.oempartworld.com/image/data/pdf%20install/PT938-42130-XX_MY13%20Rav4%20DIO%20Body%20Side%20Molding%20IssB.pdf

Even after I taped the grids out, and used vernier calipers to make my marks, things didn't line up so I improvised.

I laid the front door moldings on the car with masking tape, hanging them from the top, then I adjusted the position to get them right. Since they were hinged by the masking tape I was able to pull the bottom double sided tape protection strip out , starting with the end piece because that is the hardest one to get out to fully expose the adhesive, then I did the bottom and top pulling them and pressing as I went along. You don't pull the tape all at once, you pull it down as you go left to right.

After I did the front, I put the back up on the car the same way..a few pieces of masking tape to hang it on the marks, then I used a straight edge ( in my case a long level) to establish a line from the bottom edge of the front molding to the rear door at which point I adjusted the position of the rear molding so it would be in line with the front one. Once I had it hung where I wanted it I pulled the end tape then the bottom and then top tape to set it in place.

I took my time and made sure everything was going to be positioned so the moldings were positioned so they were not running up or down over the length of them so that when you look at the side of the vehicle they are not sticking out like a sore thumb. It still took me the better part of an hour to do.

As to other things to do to your Rav, I got the carbon fiber look sill plate protectors, a cheap way to prevent scuffs on the sills. Easy to install, although Toyota gives precise measurements you can eyeball them, just pop the trim piece off, lift the weather strip, pull the tape off the bottom edge and lay along the body line on the sill. press down that section and then pull the top tape off and lay it down. replace the weather strip and trim panel... good to go.

I also got the rear bumper protector. The tops of these bumpers can get stuff dragged across it, in my case my dogs claws as they put them up there so I can lift them in the truck ( my Highlander and Escape have scratches from this) so the protector is cheaper than a repaint later on.

My next project, and as soon as I am done typing this I have to call the dealer parts department, is I am going to remove the roof rack sides. Mine didn't come with the cross bars, I have never used a roof rack on any of my SUV's, and they are a royal pain in the butt when you have to clear snow off your roof. My cost on the parts to do the roof rack delete is just under 50 bucks, that is for the 4 covers, 2 front brackets, 2 rear brackets, and the 8 shorter bolts and washers that are going to keep it water tight.

Next on my list is the carpeted rear area mat and 4 mud guards.... that will be done in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks bud.
That's sounds like lot of work to put the side molding. I'm not that's good with installing things so I may pay somebody to do it.
What u think about color matching the skid plate front and back to the car paint color.
Also I want to do a remote start. I had viper in the past.
 

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Thanks bud.
That's sounds like lot of work to put the side molding. I'm not that's good with installing things so I may pay somebody to do it.
What u think about color matching the skid plate front and back to the car paint color.
Also I want to do a remote start. I had viper in the past.
Any modifications are subjective, it is what you want your car to look like, so as far as the skid plates go, I would suggest you take some pictures of the car as it sits now, then find someone who is good with Photoshop to color them in for you so you can see what they look like.

As for the moldings, you can do them yourself, with a 50/50 chance of screwing it up requiring you can buy another set to fix it, or you can just have someone who knows what they are doing do it... but believe me it isn't as easy as just slapping them on, if you are out of position you'll see it and you will be kicking yourself.

My remote starter which was the part of the deal was supposed to be a Toyota OEM unit, and the stealership was doing everything they could to get me to go aftermarket. I insisted on OEM as it is "plug and play" except for needing the software to get it to work with the immobilizer.

I go to get the car and they did aftermarket " by mistake", I got it for free and they put in writing that the wiring harness and anything else that has a problem is warranted by them for as long as I own the car.

If I wanted aftermarket, I would have had the guy I have used for 20 years do it.... with all this Canbus crap I am not cutting into a harness if I can avoid it, but that is just me. Viper has been around since forever, they make a good product, but it is really the ability of the installer that counts. If you do go aftermarket, figure out how you get around the immobilizer. If you need a key in order to have the "chip" to put in a box so the pickup ring can read it, you can get a OEM key cloned to make a standard key without the built in remote. If we had a valet key you could use that ( I did that with my Highlander) but that is not an option so figure out the cost of getting the theft protection system to work with the Viper ( or any system) when you are pricing things out.
 

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You live in Chicago (a big city) then you better upgrade your horns too. Go from beeb beeb to honk honk with either aftermarket or Camry horns.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Thanks bud.
That's sounds like lot of work to put the side molding. I'm not that's good with installing things so I may pay somebody to do it.
What u think about color matching the skid plate front and back to the car paint color.
Also I want to do a remote start. I had viper in the past.
It's not as bad as it sounds.
Just take your time, and use the metric measurements.
I've done both the '15 Rav4 and '16 Corolla and it really really is not worth paying the dealer $130 to do... but if you aren't comfortable with it then you aren't.

Color match would be okay depending on the color.
Black, you aren't going to see much of a difference because of the texture. White, it's going to look really bad really quickly, both from dirt and chips.

I think it would look beautiful on a show car with the texture filled... but not really practical for a daily drivers. Those panels are textured plastic for a reason, and part of that reason is the lack of durability of [strike]Toyota's[/strike] modern automotive paint due to EPA regulations.

There are a few remote start modules on the market.
You do have a transponder key, so that is one issue that needs to be overcome, and the forum is loaded with threads from people who have had a remote installed and within a few weeks they start having problems.
Personally, I wouldn't do it... but I don't live in extreme cold.
 

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In regards to remote starts, I thought the industry had found ways (just a few months ago) to bypass the transponder for remote starting... I could have sworn I read about it on this forum...
 

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I had a remote start installed at the dealer over 2 years ago on mine before I picked it up. Haven't had a single problem. It was an older 2 way auto start brand but works great and has a better range than most of the newer ones.
 

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In regards to remote starts, I thought the industry had found ways (just a few months ago) to bypass the transponder for remote starting... I could have sworn I read about it on this forum...
Often you have to program a spare chip into the ECU and the chip becomes a part of the system.
Some systems can mimic the chip, which is good because it keeps the immobilizer active, but I've heard that the new Toyota models have not yet been cloned.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the suggestions. I called few places for the remote starter and I asked about the viper 2 way single button remote start nobody said any problem.
What exactly it's mean by transponder key.
I had the same key on my 2010 camry and I had install a alarm system. I haven't had any problem.
Then ofcourse I did it in a reputable shop. I believe if u go some cheaper shop they may screw it up.

What u guys thinking about black out tail light not too dark. My car is current black metallic color.
 

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Ya, a good shop will get you set up.
Most Toyotas since 2006 or so have had a chip in the key that needs to be close to the ignition switch to allow the car to start.

On blacking out the lighting, even slightly?
It looks great on show cars.
On the street, I really, really, really want people to be able to see me and see when I apply the brakes.
 

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Often you have to program a spare chip into the ECU and the chip becomes a part of the system.
Some systems can mimic the chip, which is good because it keeps the immobilizer active, but I've heard that the new Toyota models have not yet been cloned.
I did a bit of digging on this... It looks like all the remote start systems these days are modularized... so in addition to the actual "viper" or whatever brand remote start, you also need to get a module that interfaces to the car. One of the companies that does the car interface is iDatalink. According to a quick search on their website, you do NOT need to sacrifice a key for the remote start (though one is needed for programming) on any 2016 RAV4:

iDatalink - Search

(This was a search for the push to start hybrid, but you can mess around with the filters to see that the "keys for install" row will stay at "none" regardless of if it's a PTS or "H" std key.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What I heard was the remote start has bypass module that will fix the chip thing.
The professional shop will charge around 400 dollars to do it. Including parts and labor.
So it's always better to go to a reputable shop to do it.
An other thing I noticed is when u open the door at the bottom where the plastic piece is, it's hard to keep it clear the area I don't know how all the dirt getting inside the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Tell me about snow it was snowing right next day after I bought the car the snow and ice was all over inside that plastic area. To me it feels like the doors are not sealed well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Anybody good in doing photo shop here. I really want to do something with the silver skid plate. I wish it was Chrome. I don't like the silver color. I guess I'm stuck with it. I thought about covering with black film it's doesn't look good it may look good if I covered with the same as car paint.

Did anyone tint the rav 4. I just did 35% in the front windows and kept the all other the same. I think I have to do 5% in the back some reason I feel like there is lot of light getting in.
 

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5% on the back is going to be WAY too dark.
The factory tint is pretty close to 20%. I went 15-30 on my Corolla and it's pretty nice.
You can maybe put a 35% over the rear and it will still be usable at night, but any darker than that and you're going to be hating life at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Actually the factory tint is 30%. My tint guy measured the rear side windows so I'm assuming the rear is 30% as well. I think u have a point if I do 5% in back it's going to be really dark since it has factory tint already. May be I should do an other 20% or 30 % in the rear window. And the side windows I may live it alone cause if I do the rear side even 35%. I feel like it's going to look different when comparing to the front windows. It won't blend.
Infact I want to keep 35% in the front.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Hmm... Seems a lot darker than 30% on my wife's XLE, comparing the 30 on the front of my Corolla with her stock windows.
 
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