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Good morning! This is my very first post on here, but I am thankful that I've been able to lurk and get lots of questions answered! :)

I, like many of you, had issues with the key fob buttons wearing out on my 2006's key. I bought the replacement on ebay and after a bunch of strikes, finally Lowes was willing to cut the key for me. I switched over the electronics and my key doesn't have a transponder chip.

The keyless buttons on the new key work and I can crank the engine, but they key won't manually unlock the door. I look it back into the store and they ran it through the machine again, but still the same issue.

Has anyone had this problem and know the solution? It doesn't really matter, I guess, as long as the battery in the fob never dies. However, I'd love to have a fully functioning key!
 

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I had the same problem when I got my replacement key FOB and then had the key cut. What happen in my case is the master keys had a bit of wear on it already. When I used the master key to cut the new blade, it did not want to work in the door lock as well as the starter key cylinder. I had to reorder a new replacement blade for the FOB ( got a flip key complete with Remote guts ) and then got the locksmith to do the cut with the Valet key which is still brand spanking new. After that all is well. I believe it may be the same situation with your new key.


I manage to get the other key to work now after taking a file to it. I actually had to fill in an area toward the tip of the key with Metal epoxy and then manually filing it to the valet key profile.


Hope this helps explain your problem.
 

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@DL175 I'm not sure-- I haven't changed it but I bought it used two years ago @casper when I bought the car I only had the one key, no valet. So do you recommend that I try filing it?
 

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You could start by making sure all the flat surface are flat and smooth but do not file anymore material then it is needed to flatten the area. This includes all the slopes too. Make the key as smooth as possible and hopefully this helps. Your best way to getting a good functional key would be to go to the dealership and provide them with your VIN. If the key cylinder had not been replace, then they have a way of cutting you a new replacement key ( Valet or Master ) that will work properly. Getting a locksmith to rekey all the cylinder will be much more expensive if not impossible.


Hope this helps.
 

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If you can find a locksmith who knows what he is doing, they can 'decode' your old key and cut the new key by code.

Since your new key is already cut, it may be too late.
 

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I bought the replacement on ebay and after a bunch of strikes, finally Lowes was willing to cut the key for me. !
Not sure what you mean by a bunch of strikes, but obviously you had an original key to copy from.

Was the door lock changed ?
@DL175 I'm not sure-- I haven't changed it but I bought it used two years ago!
If your original key, (the one you copied from), actually worked, then it is irrelevant if the locks were changed. Therefore your reply to DL175 makes me wonder if you had ever been able to unlock the doors with that original key?

I don't know if the 2006 had a lock on the passenger door, but if it does, will the key work OK on that door.
 

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The glove box has a lock you could also try...my guess is that since your key was used in the ignition on a regular basis the key and ignition cylinder wore down at the same time...since the key would not have been used in the door as much that didn't wear down...you could go to the dealer and have them cut you a new master key...then make a couple copies..
 

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Same here, Plus...

I have this same problem, and will try to take a file to my new, sharp keys.

But I also have an interesting item: The new keys, which didn't work in the door, *did* work in the ignition *without* programming! Started right up. Saved me the embarrassing dance, but I wonder what's going on here?
 

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The new keys, which didn't work in the door, *did* work in the ignition *without* programming! Started right up. Saved me the embarrassing dance, but I wonder what's going on here?
Probably the same reason why smuddles didn't have a problem. If your RAV doesn't have an immobilizer, the key won't have a "chip" and therefore no programming will be required. You will have to program the RAV to accept the lock/unlock codes from the new key though.

my key doesn't have a transponder chip.
 

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Although mine is a 'base' model, I thought all cars had the chip, these days. That would explain it, though.

Thanks for the reply!
 

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Although mine is a 'base' model, I thought all cars had the chip, these days.
Well I don't know what model year of RAV you have, and what country you live in so I can't say for sure. You might want to add that information to your profile.

Immobilizers have been mandatory in Canada since 2007, but the first vehicle I owned that had one, was a 2001. I believe the RAV4 Limited sold in the US had an immobilizer around 2008 and the other models received immobilizers even later. I'm sure some of our US members can give more precise dates.

You can confirm if you have an immobilisor, if you have a flashing red light next to the clock when the key is not in the ignition (the light stops flashing when the key is present).

Another clue is if your key looks like this

 

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2008 base V6. It replaced a 2000 Sienna that quit on me. Since the 2000 had the chip, I thought it would be pretty much standard on newer cars. But I'm seeing now that the (only) set of keys that came with it didn't have the chip in the compartment your photo points out. Could have saved a little bit of money on the new blanks, if I had known... Thanks for the photo!
 
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