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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm sure most DIYers know how to change oil by now, but I figure I would take some pictures for those who may be interested in doing so themselves.

Filter element part number: 04152-YZZA1
Filter cap tool: Assenmacher TOY 640
A few people from the TN Highlander forum indicates Matco TOY110A may have a better fit. Given this is stated for a 4-cylinder, I don't know how it performs since the Assenmacher gave me no issues. The Matco TOY112A is stated for the 6-/8-cylinder, but again, I have no experience with either Matco products.

Tools needed: 14mm socket for drain plug, 3/8" wrench "square" for filter cap plug, 15/16" socket for filter cap tool, 3/4" OD tube for drain pipe (if needed)

Since my maintenance light started to flash a few days ago, I figure I would finally change the oil after reading about it.

Filter element with o-rings and drain pipe.


3/4" OD clear tube bought from local hardware store.


Clear tube connected to drain pipe.


Filter cap tool, fits like a glove with no movement.


There is enough clearance under the RAV4 to drain the oil out without using ramps, but the ramps do help.

Filter assembly.


Drain plug.


Use a 14mm socket to remove the drain plug, have the catch pan ready.


My drain plug had a metal gasket with it, didn't use the gasket that seller included.


Oil gushing out...and lots of it.




Use a 3/8" wrench to loosen the filter plug (add extension if needed).


If the filter housing starts to turn while loosening the filter plug, place a wrench between the body and housing to keep it stationary.


Push drain pipe (with tube) into hole and excess filter oil will drain out. The small o-ring will also come out when the drain pipe is removed.



Mount the filter cap tool on and use a 15/16" socket to loosen cap. I used a 1/2" ratchet with the socket.




The dirty filter element.


Remove the original large o-ring and dirty filter element.


Inside of filter holder. Wipe it clean as well.


Clean the engine side of where the filter screws into.


New filter element with new large o-ring. Be sure to lubricate the large o-ring. Hand tighten the housing until snug fit. I used a 1/2" torque wrench with the 15/16" socket and cap tool to tighten to 19 ft-lb.


Lubricate the new small o-ring and insert in groove. It's a snug fit, so it shouldn't fall off. Install the filter plug and tighten to 9.5 ft-lb.


At this time, if not already done, reinstall the 14mm oil drain plug (w/gasket) and tighten to 30 ft-lb.

Remove the oil fill cap.


Once the oil fill cap is removed, there's a baffle inside, be sure not to damage it if using a funnel when adding oil. See here from JuneBug.


There were about 6 quarts that were drained, but I've only added 5.5 quarts since the oil level at the dipstick was about 1/2-way between the 2 points. But check again and add if necessary after driving it.

It took me 1.5-hrs from start to finish, but only because I was taking pictures as well. I waited about 15 minutes for the oil to drain to a slow drip. I would say next time, it would take me only about 30 minutes to do.

One last thing, to reset the "Maintenance" light in the dash from flashing:
- turn ignition to "ON," no need to crank the starter
- push the trip button so "Trip A" is displayed
- turn ignition to "OFF"
- push and hold the trip button and turn ignition to "ON"
- there will be a few dashes that will count down from left to right until all ZEROES
- maintenance light is now reset
 

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Really well done, thank you. It will take the additional 1/2 quart by the way.
Curiosity....what was your choice of oil?
 

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Excellent job as usual, KTL! This tutorial has been needed for a long time on this forum. I think it will be just as useful for the 2.5L 4 cylinder owners. Another home run for you!

Many thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It was my pleasure to document the steps and share them. Luckily, I have an understanding wife. ;)

@RTexasF, I'm trying something called G-Oil, which is "bio-synthetic," whatever that means. There's currently a promotion to get 5-qt free after mailing in a rebate. :mrgreen: Otherwise, I've used Castrol GTX and Mobil 1 in the past.
 

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Several members on Bobistheoilguy have purchased G-Oil. Many, including myself, are awaiting the first used oil analysis from there to see how it fares.
 

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Thank you, I don't know how I missed those. One is excellent and the other is just okay. This certainly shows how different driving conditions/habits/vehicles affect the oil condition & durability.
 

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KTL, best instructions ever! very well done. 2 things. 1. you can safely put in 6.4 quarts like the manual says. 2. I am able to hand tighten the oil filter holder until it's tight (metal on metal), and no I'm no body builder.
 

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Just what I needed. Logged on to see how to reset the Maintenance light and found this.

As soon as my 25,000 mile "free" maintance program is up I am doing my own again. It is not unlike my Mercury Milan as far as filter removal and replacement.

Thanks. Already have it earmarked for future reference.
 

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I, like every Toyota oil change tech, could never be bothered to pre-drain the filter canister. What's the point?
Just drop the canister, turn it upside down to drain, and you've saved 15 minutes of your DIY oil change.
Am I missing something here?
Great pictures and comprehensive instructions, BTW.
 

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Why? It takes 6 even with a super jiffy ultra fast dealer oil change. A little more drain time (maybe a lot more) would certainly allow for another .4 quart wouldn't it?

Just reading my official Toyota S.O. on my oil change Friday and they say they put in 7 quarts of 5/30 oil.

And their price is $2.98/qt so I must be getting medicore oil at best.
 

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Why? It takes 6 even with a super jiffy ultra fast dealer oil change. A little more drain time (maybe a lot more) would certainly allow for another .4 quart wouldn't it?
When I took a 5-quart bottle of Mobile 1 to the dealer and asked them to use that (I would top it up), the oil came well between the lines on the dipstick. Topping it took less than half a quart. When doing that, I pay the same as the discounted oil change fee. The total comes to about the same as they would charge for a full synthetic change, but I have more control over the oil. An earlier change I took 2 5-quart jugs. They used maybe 6.5 quarts I estimate. I drained the excess with a siphon tube through the dipstick tube. Even after my siphoning, I left the oil a little above the full mark. I did not record the amount removed nor how much the oil was over full. I know that many don't worry about oil being a half inch over the full mark. It was no more than that when I siphoned.

My suspicion is they are going for speed rather than long draining.

Another time the 5-quart jug was still sitting in the car after the oil change. So I just went with the dino oil for the one change.... with such short oil change intervals, I decided to not ask them to do it over... they only got $22 for the change anyway. Honest mistake I did not think worth pursuing.
 

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I, like every Toyota oil change tech, could never be bothered to pre-drain the filter canister. What's the point?
I just purchased a car that had religious 3k oil changes at a dealer. They did not pre-drain the filter canister (the plug may have never been removed). It took putting the canister in a vice (thank goodness Toyota put flats on the canister threads, made this easy and didn't mark or scratch the canister), but I managed to get the drain plug out.

What did I find? Well, the rest of the oil in the crankcase was a light honey-color... and the area between the valve and the drain plug had oil that was a fairly dark brown. It doesn't look like this is an area that sees a lot of oil circulation, but does accumulate grubby oil.

If you don't take the drain plug out and change the gasket every oil change, you may want to do it at some interval to get that trapped grubby oil out.
 

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Whenever I do an oil/filter change I always pour oil into the filter cartridge before installing it to minimize oil starvation on start up. Seems like the right thing to do. :shrug:


Tom
 
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