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I've done my own oil changes every ~6 months on my 2012 V6 and I ponied up for a forged tool similar to what you've mentioned, think it was from Amazon for around $20.

Thing is I've never really been able to use it since the factory torque specs on the plug and housing are so light. Mostly they each just loosen with basic twisting. Always freaks me out a little that it will loosen and leak but never has.
 

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The MotivX tool is also forged, and has fittings for both 3/8 drive and a wrench.
The 64mm cap wrench that you initially bought is not the proper tool. The proper tool slips all the way to the bottom of the housing and grips the "fingers" as well as the flats at the end of the housing. The tool will self-release the spring clip that helps prevent the housing from backing off.
The Capri tool looks pretty good
 

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I know the TOY640 oil filter wrench are very durable and can take off a very tight oil filter. I over torqued mine without using a torque wrench and the next oil change I thought I was turning the filter the right way but instead snapped my oil filter wrench. So I tighten the oil filter more and to the max until the oil filter wrench snapped going the wrong way. I used the TOY640 oil filter wrench to remove it. So never again will I put an oil filter on without torquing it. The TOY640 oil wrench fits too tight so I used one that is not so tight fitting. This one.
 

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So...I just did my second oil change on this one....and I thought it went well until I thought that perhaps I'd overfilled it.

Half of a gallon jug and just over half of the second....that seems to be too much, right? Problem is, the oil is so clean, I can't read the damn dipstick!
I've been changing my own oil for over forty years, and I've never seen a dipstick that is as hard to "read" as these!

Is there a trick to it? Seriously, it seems that each time I pull it out, I get a different reading...I'm not sure to look for the highest point of oil, or just see if one of the divots has oil in it and the other doesn't...
I've been draining the "excess" (what I assume to be excess because I can't tell for sure) through the filter, instead of pulling the drain plug, but this is taking forever.

Does anybody have a trick to reading the level of invisible oil on this dipstick?
 

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So...I just did my second oil change on this one....and I thought it went well until I thought that perhaps I'd overfilled it.

Half of a gallon jug and just over half of the second....that seems to be too much, right? Problem is, the oil is so clean, I can't read the damn dipstick!
I've been changing my own oil for over forty years, and I've never seen a dipstick that is as hard to "read" as these!

Is there a trick to it? Seriously, it seems that each time I pull it out, I get a different reading...I'm not sure to look for the highest point of oil, or just see if one of the divots has oil in it and the other doesn't...
I've been draining the "excess" (what I assume to be excess because I can't tell for sure) through the filter, instead of pulling the drain plug, but this is taking forever.

Does anybody have a trick to reading the level of invisible oil on this dipstick?
Just wait a week or so until the oil gets a bit darker and then take a reading with a cold engine. Next time when you do an oil change under fill slightly and add more when you can see the oil better is what I usually do. This way you don't need to worry about over filling.
 

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So...I just did my second oil change on this one....and I thought it went well until I thought that perhaps I'd overfilled it.
Half of a gallon jug and just over half of the second....that seems to be too much, right? Problem is, the oil is so clean, I can't read the damn dipstick!
I've been changing my own oil for over forty years, and I've never seen a dipstick that is as hard to "read" as these!
Is there a trick to it? Seriously, it seems that each time I pull it out, I get a different reading...I'm not sure to look for the highest point of oil, or just see if one of the divots has oil in it and the other doesn't...
I've been draining the "excess" (what I assume to be excess because I can't tell for sure) through the filter, instead of pulling the drain plug, but this is taking forever.
Does anybody have a trick to reading the level of invisible oil on this dipstick?
Here's what I did...clean off the dipstick and gently sand it with emory cloth or such, just enough to "dull" the shine on the stick. Much easier to see the oil level.
 

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Awesome instructions. I am going to do my first ever DIY oil change on my 2011 RAV4 V6 next weekend. These instructions are so so helpful.

3 questions:

1. For the drain plug washer/gasket: I just purchased the OEM washers from Amazon last night (~$6 for 5 pieces). But how is this gasket different from the washers we typically buy for nuts from Homedepot? Can the latter be used?
2.What is the optimal oil dip-stick reading? Is it closer to the top hole or somewhere in-between?
3. Did you add oil to the filter/filter housing before screwing it back in? I read in a few places that you shouldn't leave the filter dry.

Thanks again and looking forward to my first DIY car project! I have brakes coming up in a few months as well.

Avi
 

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Awesome instructions. I am going to do my first ever DIY oil change on my 2011 RAV4 V6 next weekend. These instructions are so so helpful.



3 questions:



1. For the drain plug washer/gasket: I just purchased the OEM washers from Amazon last night (~$6 for 5 pieces). But how is this gasket different from the washers we typically buy for nuts from Homedepot? Can the latter be used?

2.What is the optimal oil dip-stick reading? Is it closer to the top hole or somewhere in-between?

3. Did you add oil to the filter/filter housing before screwing it back in? I read in a few places that you shouldn't leave the filter dry.



Thanks again and looking forward to my first DIY car project! I have brakes coming up in a few months as well.



Avi


As a rule of thumb you always want to put oil in the oil filter whenever possible before screwing it back to the engine to reduce the time the engine runs dry during the first start up.

Also when draining the oil you might want to look into using an oil extractor and suck the oil via the dipstick. It’s less messy than opening the drain plug and from experience you get more oil out using an extractor than thru the drain plug. The only downside I see using an extractor is that it’s slower than popping open the drain plug. Here’s the oil extractor I used: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor 6-Liter OIL01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GU0MMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2f1SCb64P701J
 

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Discussion Starter #194
3 questions:

1. For the drain plug washer/gasket: I just purchased the OEM washers from Amazon last night (~$6 for 5 pieces). But how is this gasket different from the washers we typically buy for nuts from Homedepot? Can the latter be used?
The typical OEM washer is a crush-type, which I don't know/think you can get them from Home Depot. My washer for some reason wasn't the crush-type, but I've kept using it without any leaks. I've been buying a pack of 10 filter elements from an eBay Toyota seller, who also includes the OEM washers. If you plan on DIY, that may be a more affordable way than to spend $6 for 5 OEM washers.

psychoanalyst said:
2.What is the optimal oil dip-stick reading? Is it closer to the top hole or somewhere in-between?
Typically, after filling it, the dip-stick reading is about 1/2-way, but that's when the engine is cold. When engine is warm/hot, it will rise closer to the top.

psychoanalyst said:
3. Did you add oil to the filter/filter housing before screwing it back in? I read in a few places that you shouldn't leave the filter dry.
No, I didn't add oil to the filter canister before screwing it back in. I hadn't had any issues from all the years of DIY.

psychoanalyst said:
Thanks again and looking forward to my first DIY car project! I have brakes coming up in a few months as well.
Avi
Brakes are pretty easy too. Have fun!
 

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Also when draining the oil you might want to look into using an oil extractor and suck the oil via the dipstick. It’s less messy than opening the drain plug and from experience you get more oil out using an extractor than thru the drain plug. The only downside I see using an extractor is that it’s slower than popping open the drain plug. Here’s the oil extractor I used: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor 6-Liter OIL01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GU0MMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2f1SCb64P701J

This is interesting. I didn't realize this was an option. I am curious if the drain plug washer still needs to be changed if we extract the oil using the hand pump?

I already ended up getting the Flo-Tool drain pan.

Thanks for the tip though. Very handy.

Avi
 

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The typical OEM washer is a crush-type, which I don't know/think you can get them from Home Depot. My washer for some reason wasn't the crush-type, but I've kept using it without any leaks. I've been buying a pack of 10 filter elements from an eBay Toyota seller, who also includes the OEM washers. If you plan on DIY, that may be a more affordable way than to spend $6 for 5 OEM washers.
I just checked out the seller. Seems like a great deal.
 

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This is interesting. I didn't realize this was an option. I am curious if the drain plug washer still needs to be changed if we extract the oil using the hand pump?



I already ended up getting the Flo-Tool drain pan.



Thanks for the tip though. Very handy.



Avi


No need to remove the drain plug therefore you don’t need to replace the washer. Been extracting oil from the top for years with all my cars.
 

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Hello Folks,

I just completed my first ever DIY oil change on my 2011 RAV4 Sport V6. Figured I'd chime in here with comments from a first timer, with the hope that other first timers might find it useful. Below are my comments:

Resources I found super useful: this post of course and the following videos on Youtube:

(Toyota Specific)
(Generic, but awesome video)

Tools/Parts I used:

1/2" drive breaker bar : https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-18-in-breaker-bar-60818.html
1/2" drive ratchet: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-composite-ratchet-62618.html
1/2" drive 3" extension bar: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Drive-3-in-Extension-Bar-H2DEXT3/202934391
1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter (for the drain filter cap): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Female-to-3-8-in-Male-Drive-Adapter-HADPTR1238/205543651

Flo-Tool Oil Drain Pan: https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloTool-Super-Duty-16-Qt-Drain-Container-42003MI/207115129
Flo-Tool Oil funnel: https://www.homedepot.com/p/FloTool-Super-QuickFill-Funnel-05062MI/205152513

5W-30 Oil from Castrol: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TS9ZYXC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00TS9ZYXC&pd_rd_w=5v73b&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=2md6M&pf_rd_r=PGKPSPNMD9QVATD5N4QD&pd_rd_r=73dff32f-6f64-11e9-bacd-057edb0f0487

Oil Filter: Genuine OEM Toyota Oil filter : https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-FACTORY-OIL-FILTER-04152-YZZA1/232363553459?fits=Year:2011|Model:RAV4|Submodel:Base|Engine+-+Liter_Display:3.5L|Make:Toyota|Trim:Base+Sport+Utility+4-Door|Engine:3.5L+3456CC+V6+GAS+DOHC+Naturally+Aspirated&epid=523480948&hash=item3619f272b3:g:XXQAAOSwmmxW2ff6:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!92131!US!-1&frcectupt=true

Drain plug gasket: Toyota OEM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OW6M0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tool I didn't buy but wish I had: a Torque wrench. That way I wouldn't have to risk over or under tightening.

Overall DIY experience:


Smooth. I had done my research and watched all the videos many times over to the point was I was very clear what I needed to do after my jacking my car up.

The oil drain plug came off really easily with my breaker bar and the whole draining process was easy and smooth.

I did run into an issue with the oil filter housing itself. The drain cap wouldn't come off by itself and the whole housing turned when I ratcheted with the 3/8" bar, which was a bummer. My last oil change was with the Toyota dealership and they may have overtorqued the drain cap.

It was more a nuisance than anything else. As a result of this, I could not switch out the drain cap gasket. But I am hoping that is Ok.

Minor concern: as a first time DIYer, my ears were super sensitive to any odd sounds. As I was hand tightening the oil filter housing back, I did hear some minor squeaking/squealing. I am assuming it has to do with the oil filter gasket (which I am 100% sure was placed at the right location). Not sure if this is normal, but I did (and still am) get a bit nervous that I may have damaged that gasket. I hope that isn't the case as I was only hand tightening at that point and I am certainly not the Hulk.

After the oil change, I looked under neath the car for any leaks, took it for a spin and looked for leaks again and so far so good.

I remain nervous about the tightening of the drain plug and the oil filter housing. A torque wrench would have made me feel a whole lot better.

But overall: this is a super easy job. I spent ~$90 out of pocket for the job, but this includes ALL the hardware! Not a huge savings the first time around, but should pay for it itself after ~3 oil changes. Besides, the experience of fixing your own car is priceless, not to mention you can pick and choose the best quality oil for your car.

Hope new comers find this useful.

Onto brake pad changes!

Avi
 
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