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It Works

I finally bought a breaker bar like the dealership uses. It worked great for getting the plug or housing off, but I don't use it for putting them back on as they do which imho tightens it much to much. I use a torque wrench.
I just hope it's doing a better job than the canisters did at protecting the oil or it's a real waste of time and a dumb design.
 

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Great artical and excelant pictures.
The new tool is excellent, metal I believe which beats the plastic hands down. Another memeber developed a tool as well, fits on the two metal lugs on the outer cannister, works great and I have one.
One pet peave I have with the filter is the center drain, the plug that you pull out, no matter how long you let it drain, there is stiil dirty oil in the cannister when you remove it, my solution is to leave the plug in place as you need to clean the cannister out once off. You just cannot win with oil drainage, pulling the filter plug or not, its a messy proposition either way.
Again a super post and well done.
 

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Filter oopsie

Whadda think about this: Drained the oil last night for a change on my 3.5L 2012 w/22K miles. I use Amsoil signature full synthetic at 7,500 mile oil change intervals. Turns out that I didn't have a new filter in the garage... I thought I did but whups was wrong. So I finished the oil change and left the old oil filter in place.

Options:
a) leave the old filter in place alone and change it next time
b) change it now
 

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Finish the job and change the filter. You will only lose the 6-8 ounces of oil in the filter housing.
 

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I haven't read all the pages so I expect someone has already said it so sorry in advance.

In the old days when I did oil and filter changes I always put some new oil into the filter
housing just before screwing it back. Good idea or just a waste of time???
 

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On cars or light trucks (gas engines) I've never filled the oil filter. On diesel trucks, yes, but the filter holds 2-4 quarts. On this 3.5 I'm guessing about a pint.
 

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I'm convinced. Next oil change I'll put in 6 quarts (syn) instead of 6.4 quarts.
Why? The crankcase capacity on the 2GR FE is Capacity is 6.4 quarts.

I change my oil every 4000 miles and use dinosaur oil 5w30 in the winter or 10w30 in the summer.
 

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I just changed the oil in my wife's 2013 v6 camry SE.

Put in 6 quarts instead of the 6.4 quarts I've done in the past. looked at the dipstick - shows full.

I'll stay with 6 quarts going forward in both my v6 rav4 and the camry.
 

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Thanks for the great write-up!! One question (apologies if the answer is obvious and I'm missing it), should the threads on the filter canister be thoroughly cleaned so there's no oil in them, or does it help lubricate somehow and I shouldn't bother to make sure all the oil is out of the threads?
 

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Thanks for your comments. I wipe the threads clean, but leave a thin coating of clean oil on them. Dry threads have a tendency to seize easier.
 

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Great write-up!

I no longer remove the drain plug, I just remove the entire housing the mess is no greater (or less) - Toyota dropped the ball on this one.

On all my vehicles I evacuate the oil via dipstick. I'd rather have a spin-on disposable like my Tacoma. The Mercedes I had and father owns has a cartridge type filter, it's mounted on the top facing down. Once I remove the oil (via suction/evacuation) I refill via the housing - very clean and quick refill.
 

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anybody have a schematic of the baffle/spring/plate that goes inside the housing?
I dropped my housing and the pieces went flying...hope I got them back in right!
 

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