Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

161 - 180 of 200 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
thanks, my issue was the little metal inverted disc that goes between the spring and the baffle plate where it snaps in place in the bottom of the housing.
It could go in one side or the other, and I think it would be fine, it looks like it seals off? (metal on metal) the oil from the plug in the bottom. When you push in the plastic drain nipple it pushes this disc up off its seat to allow the oil to flow out.
 

·
Your Humble Administrator
Joined
·
16,415 Posts
Thank you very much, this post was very helpful. We just bought a used 2013 RAV4 for my fiancee, and now I have to learn all the maintenance on this car.
Welcome to RAV4World! This thread is for the 4.3 with the V6 engine, and may have differences compared to your 2013. This thread is specifically for the 4.4 generation and its I4 engine: 2015 RAV4 LE Oil Change
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Oil Filter Wrenches
I tried using a Lisle /NAPA stamped steel oil filter wrench.
The flimsy 65 mm wrench was slightly too large and jammed badly on the filter housing flats.
I bought a genuine Toyota cast tool steel wrench.
It fits like a glove and does not jam onto the housing.
Chrome plating looks nice as well.
At $41.00 it was very expensive but the no frustration use was worth the price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
That P/N works for 2008 RAV4 V6 2wd

I got 'pinged' on a response to this thread. My RAV 4 is a 2008 with V6(2GRFE). The P/N on your amazon link is the same P/N as my (filter) last two (oil) changes... #04152-YZZA1. I just ran to the garage and confirmed...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I got 'pinged' on a response to this thread. My RAV 4 is a 2008 with V6(2GRFE). The P/N on your amazon link is the same P/N as my (filter) last two (oil) changes... #04152-YZZA1. I just ran to the garage and confirmed...
Right, but the issue is that I have a 2012, and Amazon is telling me it doesn't fit. I didn't see anything listed in the manual, and doing searches didn't bring back anything definitive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #170
ApeofDooM said:
Right, but the issue is that I have a 2012, and Amazon is telling me it doesn't fit. I didn't see anything listed in the manual, and doing searches didn't bring back anything definitive.
Amazon doesn't list the same filter as fitting in my '06 V6 RAV4 or '12 Highlander, but I'm using it for both vehicles without any issues. If you need to trust Amazon's fitment guide, then you should get something that fits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Right, but the issue is that I have a 2012, and Amazon is telling me it doesn't fit. I didn't see anything listed in the manual, and doing searches didn't bring back anything definitive.
I can confirm that the 2012 uses the same filter as the previous model years from 2007. I had a 2007 and traded it for a 2012. Both use the same V6 engine. I had a filter left over and did an oil change on my 2012. It fits without any issues. The filter housing comes apart the same way. It's the same ones. I see no difference.
 

·
Your Humble Administrator
Joined
·
16,415 Posts
I can confirm that the 2012 uses the same filter as the previous model years from 2007. I had a 2007 and traded it for a 2012. Both use the same V6 engine. I had a filter left over and did an oil change on my 2012. It fits without any issues. The filter housing comes apart the same way. It's the same ones. I see no difference.
Is the 2012 filter housing aluminum? I know they changed the 4-cyl. housing to plastic at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Just did my oil change today, I have a 2012 V6 and the cap on mine is aluminum. Interesting to note that my oil pan drain bolt was marked presumably by the dealership I took it to after I first purchased it, not sure why... My filter housing drain bolt was also on far too tight, the cap began to unscrew well before the drain bolt was even close. I just did my best to slowly unscrew the cap and let oil drain down all around the cap but it flowed down my hand and was frustrating. After it was off I had to gently work with the cap in my vice just to get the bolt to open. Eventually it broke free. I retorqued everything correctly so I hopefully won't run into this issue again in 6 months.



I went with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 to replace what the dealership had used in the Spring which I'm pretty sure was the 0w-20 synthetic. I did some research and was going to go with the matching Extended Performance filter over the Toyota OEM but after going through Bob Is The Oil Guy and others I was shocked to see that this Fram Ultra Synthetic was nearly unanimously praised and had data behind it.. and it was $11(!). Made in the USA as well I guess.

Having seen it up close I can say it does seem far more robust than others I have looked at and it is said to be guaranteed for 15k miles intervals (I'll still change it in 6 months anyway but worth it incase I go longer and for my mostly stop and go driving). Had a better drain tube than OEM (which I unfortunately couldn't test of course) and instructions that were actually proper and correct with torque numbers. I have to say I am impressed like others have said.




Still have a hard time reading the dipstick but what's new, I apparently am the village idiot when it comes to trying to understand a dipstick.. they are never obvious and always vague.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #175
Although I had torqued everything properly every time, the filter plug still won't come off on its own, so I added a step in placing a wrench (two open-ended works best) against the filter housing and body to keep it from turning while the filter plug gets loosened. Now, the drain pipe can be used each time.

The instructions on the OEM box isn't very clear, but do it enough times, you don't really it anymore. I actually put all the torque values on a piece of paper in my tool box, makes it easier than to look it up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
Ya, even properly torqued, removing the cap can cause the housing to rotate.
What works for me is to give the ratchet a sharp rap with the heel of my hand. That pops the cap free while the housing remains held snug by the o-ring.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,505 Posts
What Rich said. I use a small hammer intended for interior trim to rap the wrench just once. It's one of my favorite hammers besides the dead-blows for different purposes. Each to his own. What works, works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
So I just started doing the first oil change on my 2012 v6 rav4 sport. I went to take off the drain plug and noticed that the gasket did not seem to be attached. I kind of picked at the area and nothing. So I took a picture and it seems to me that the dealership (Who last did my oil change) over-tightened and smashed the gasket nicely. At least that's what it seems like, as otherwise it's not flush. My eyes aren't playing tricks on me? That is indeed a metal gasket, right?


Sorry for potato quality. I wasn't using the main camera on the phone.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
That is a metal gasket, and I suspect it has never been changed.
My wife's '15 looked like that, and I thought that the gasket had been omitted. 2nd oil change, I put a little pressure on it with a screwdriver and it popped off. The pan is flush, I suspect that the factory installs the bolt before the paint is fully dry and the gasket sticks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I wanted to add a note about the filter housing tool. I have a 2009 with the 6 cyl engine.

I've owned this car since new and never had time/was too lazy to change the oil so I had always brought it to a quick change place. I now have the time to start doing more of my own maintenance so I decided to do this oil change myself.

While at Walmart buying the oil and filter, I picked up a "Hyper Tough" oil filter wrench made for the car. At $4.44 plus tax I figured how could I lose.

As is no surprise, the quick change place WAY over-tightened the oil filter housing. So I started to apply some force when "SNAP". The tool cracked almost in half.

Well, that's not good I thought, but I was racing daylight so off to AutoZone I went to buy a different one. They had the "Performance Tool" brand (the only choice) for $9.99 plus tax.

So back under the car I begin to apply some force and "POP". The part of the tool for the socket completely broke off.

I ended up using some large channel locks - not the preferred method but I had no other choice.

I did a little research on the tool and found that most of them are cast. I ended up finding one made by Capri Tools that is forged and at a very good price point on Amazon. I have not had a chance to test it yet.

https://www.capritools.com/automotive-tools/oil-service/oil-filter-wrenches/

If you are going to invest in one of these, I would suggest avoiding the ones that are cast and look for the ones that are forged.

One other note - for whatever reason the correct way to use the wrench is to use a socket when removing the filter housing and use the 3/8" drive with a torque wrench when reinstalling the filter housing.

YMMV
 

Attachments

161 - 180 of 200 Posts
About this Discussion
199 Replies
82 Participants
psychoanalyst
Toyota RAV4 Forums
Rav 4 World is the internet's largest Toyota Rav4 SUV and EV online forum community. Discuss towing, modifications, and more.
Full Forum Listing
Top