I'm sure most DIYers know how to change oil by now, but I figure I would take some pictures for those who may be interested in doing so themselves.
Filter element part number: 04152-YZZA1
Filter cap tool: Assenmacher TOY 640
A few people from the TN Highlander forum indicates Matco TOY110A may have a better fit. Given this is stated for a 4-cylinder, I don't know how it performs since the Assenmacher gave me no issues. The Matco TOY112A is stated for the 6-/8-cylinder, but again, I have no experience with either Matco products.
Tools needed: 14mm socket for drain plug, 3/8" wrench "square" for filter cap plug, 15/16" socket for filter cap tool, 3/4" OD tube for drain pipe (if needed)
Since my maintenance light started to flash a few days ago, I figure I would finally change the oil after reading about it.
Parts
There is enough clearance under the RAV4 to drain the oil out without using ramps, but the ramps do help.
Loosen
Drain
Filter assembly
Drain pipe
Canister
Cleaning up
New filter
At this time, if not already done, reinstall the 14mm oil drain plug (w/gasket) and tighten to 30 ft-lb.
New oil
There were about 6 quarts that were drained, but I've only added 5.5 quarts since the oil level at the dipstick was about 1/2-way between the 2 points. But check again and add if necessary after driving it.
It took me 1.5-hrs from start to finish, but only because I was taking pictures as well. I waited about 15 minutes for the oil to drain to a slow drip. I would say next time, it would take me only about 30 minutes to do.
One last thing, to reset the "Maintenance" light in the dash from flashing:
Filter element part number: 04152-YZZA1
Filter cap tool: Assenmacher TOY 640
A few people from the TN Highlander forum indicates Matco TOY110A may have a better fit. Given this is stated for a 4-cylinder, I don't know how it performs since the Assenmacher gave me no issues. The Matco TOY112A is stated for the 6-/8-cylinder, but again, I have no experience with either Matco products.
Tools needed: 14mm socket for drain plug, 3/8" wrench "square" for filter cap plug, 15/16" socket for filter cap tool, 3/4" OD tube for drain pipe (if needed)
Since my maintenance light started to flash a few days ago, I figure I would finally change the oil after reading about it.
Parts
- Filter element with o-rings and drain pipe
- 3/4" OD clear tube bought from local hardware store
- Clear tube connected to drain pipe
- Filter cap tool, fits very well with no movement, other tools that can be used if this one doesn't fit well
- Direct fit funnel
There is enough clearance under the RAV4 to drain the oil out without using ramps, but the ramps do help.
Loosen
- Drain plug
- Use a 14mm socket to remove the drain plug, have the catch pan ready.
- Existing drain plug had a metal gasket, otherwise, use the new crush gasket.
Drain
Filter assembly
- Use a 3/8" wrench to loosen the filter plug (add extension if needed).
- If the filter housing starts to turn while loosening the filter plug, place a wrench between the body and housing to keep it stationary.
Drain pipe
- Push drain pipe (with tube) into hole and excess filter oil will drain out, the small o-ring will also come out when the drain pipe is removed.
Canister
- Mount the filter cap tool on and use a 15/16" socket and ratchet to loosen cap.
- Dirty filter element
Cleaning up
- Remove the original large o-ring and dirty filter element.
- Clean the inside of the filter holder.
- Clean the engine side of where the filter screws into.
New filter
- New filter element with new large o-ring. Be sure to lubricate the large o-ring. Hand tighten the housing until snug fit. I used a 1/2" torque wrench with the 15/16" socket and cap tool to tighten to 19 ft-lb.
- Lubricate the new small o-ring and insert in groove. It's a snug fit, so it shouldn't fall off. Install the filter plug and tighten to 9.5 ft-lb.
At this time, if not already done, reinstall the 14mm oil drain plug (w/gasket) and tighten to 30 ft-lb.
New oil
- Remove the oil fill cap. Once the oil fill cap is removed, there's a baffle inside, be sure not to damage it if using a typical funnel when adding oil. See here from JuneBug.
- Otherwise, use a direct fit funnel that attaches on so the bottle can rest on it.
There were about 6 quarts that were drained, but I've only added 5.5 quarts since the oil level at the dipstick was about 1/2-way between the 2 points. But check again and add if necessary after driving it.
It took me 1.5-hrs from start to finish, but only because I was taking pictures as well. I waited about 15 minutes for the oil to drain to a slow drip. I would say next time, it would take me only about 30 minutes to do.
One last thing, to reset the "Maintenance" light in the dash from flashing:
- turn ignition to "ON," no need to crank the starter
- push the trip button so "Trip A" is displayed
- turn ignition to "OFF"
- push and hold the trip button and turn ignition to "ON"
- there will be a few dashes that will count down from left to right until all ZEROES
- maintenance light is now reset