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Discussion Starter #1
First off, thank you so much for you time and help in reading this. I've searched the sites and forums looking for answers. Here is what I've got going on:

A friend of mind took her RAV4 to the dealers they wanted 1300 and told her the reason why it wasn't starting was the crank shaft position sensor. She doesn't have that type of money so I've offered to help, and I need some help please and thank you.

I replaced the timing belt and the crankshaft position sensor and he cam position sensor was changed very recently. I am certain the crank is at TDC and the cam should be to. I got a mirror and believe I'm seeing the line behind the hole (I believe I read you don't line it up to the dimpled hole behind the cam gear but instead line it with a dimpled line) at around 11 o'clock. When I wave a piece of metal next to the crankshaft position sensor (with the ignition on) I hear a clicking noise in the engine bay. Is there a tolerance with the sensor, for example, if the teeth are worn a little is there a distance away from the magnet that would be too far to read? The crank gear doesn't look too bad, but a little worn.

I've hooked up a meter to the wire harnesses that plug into the coils and with the ignition on I read 12.45 v so they are getting power...I ohm checked the two coils and they read 13.2 which was the same ohm reading I got with a new coil...

The problem I am having is no spark or voltage coming from the coil when I turn the key...any help with be tested and appreciated
 

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The attached file is from the 99 manual, so it should match your Rav4.

Good hunting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So still no spark...not sure why...it cranks...I've tested everything, minus the ecu...also when I hook up an OBDII reader it won't let me "connect". Any ideas?
 

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Ohm tested the cam and crank position sensor, both ignition coils...all of which are good readings. Ohm tested the wires, and checked the eg main relay. Made sure the crank is at TDC and alligned the cam to the correct notch (does it matter whether it's on the combustion or exhaust cycle for the cam, I'm reading where some says it does and others say it doesn't matter). I put a multimeter in the number 1 coil post and ground it so I can see if anything is happening while cranking and I get a very weak and almost not existant signal maybe a reading that spikes and drops...so an indication of a very weak or non-exsistant spark...any ideas or suggestions to try would be a big help...I'm starting to run out of ideas...
 

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Ohm tested the cam and crank position sensor, both ignition coils...all of which are good readings. Ohm tested the wires, and checked the eg main relay. Made sure the crank is at TDC and alligned the cam to the correct notch (does it matter whether it's on the combustion or exhaust cycle for the cam, I'm reading where some says it does and others say it doesn't matter). I put a multimeter in the number 1 coil post and ground it so I can see if anything is happening while cranking and I get a very weak and almost not existant signal maybe a reading that spikes and drops...so an indication of a very weak or non-exsistant spark...any ideas or suggestions to try would be a big help...I'm starting to run out of ideas...
You need to re-do the spark test and without going high-tech.
The multi-meter is not capable of seeing 50,000 to 100,000 volts in a blink of an eye.

Get an inline spark tester or try the test in the pdf I posted.

If you are not getting a spark we can use the multimeter to check that the ECU is getting +B voltage and a few other things, but test the spark first.
 

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The diagnostics in the factory shop manuals say to check the +B to E1 voltage, it is the 2nd line down in the table.
Key on should have 9 to 14 volts.
 

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