Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
799 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Introduction: I have always wanted to "populate" the empty switch spaces on the lower dash trim piece of the Rav.
Front seat heaters, headlight washers and side mirror heaters were the factory options but of little to no use for me.
Several years ago, I stumbled upon the following thread: HOW TO: installing a garage door opener into your 80 | IH8MUD Forum (many thanks to NLXTACY) and decided to adopt his idea.
On a side note, every mod I make on the car has to be completely reversible / removable if desired (i.e. no cutting, splicing, drilling etc unless absolutely necessary).

Let's cut to the chase.

Requirements: Soldering iron, small/precision flat-blade screwdriver, wire crimper, multi-meter, your 12v garage door opener, old wiring harnesses, mdv1 110 male spade crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, suitable Toyota switch and mating connector.
The door opener HAS to operate on 12v and have a more-than-decent range (since "burying" it behind the dash will drastically diminish its range). 15-20 metres or more should be sufficient. If your remote does not meet one or both of these requirements, I suggest buying a cheap 12v remote control duplicator with extended range (as I did).
The old wiring harnesses will provide the necessary pin terminated wires and the mdv1 110 connectors will enable them to be inserted in an unused plug in the Rav.
Everything was sourced on the cheap from a donor Rav4, but, should you need part numbers:
#84790-42020 Toyota Rav4 Defroster switch
#90980-10797 Housing connector to that switch
#82998-12340 Terminal repair wire (x5)

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50586-requirements-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Remote hack: Since my soldering skills are marginal, I decided not to solder connections on the mini switch of the remote. Instead, two ("power" and "ground") wires were inserted through holes on the casing and soldered to the battery terminals. Then, I jammed a rubber spacer between the mini switch and the casing so that the remote is "on" as long as current flows through the wires (without the need to "physically" press the button).
Except for the ground wire, all the other wires were derived from old harnesses. Check the following thread to learn how they
are removed from the connectors: How to de-pin a Toyota wiring harness - 6G Celicas Forums
The back of the Toyota Rav4 defroster switch has 5 pins and a blank spot (the colours of the wires are my personal preference and not indicative of what you will find on your connectors):
#1 Wire Green w/ White Stripe to Illumination -12v
#2 Wire Blue w/ Black Stripe to ON -12v
#3 Wire Red w/ White Stripe to ON +12v
#4 Wire Green w/ Yellow Stripe to Illumination +12v
#5 Blank
#6 Wire Red w/ Yellow Stripe to Remote positive
The other end of the wires were terminated with the mdv1 110 male spade connectors (the black ground wire from the remote and the blue/black wire from the housing connector were terminated together on a single spade connector).
Helpful links on wiring these type of switches: Help wire factory defrost switch to fog lights... | IH8MUD Forum and
115V Matrix Switch Wiring | IH8MUD Forum
The following picture should make everything clear:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50594-remote-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Switch hack: This step was not necessary, but since I wanted to replicate the push/release button action from the original remote, the push/stay pushed nature of the defroster switch was undesirable. So, using several small flat-blade screwdrivers as pry bars I managed to separate the actual switch from its casing. The following picture shows two of the four tabs that need to be pressed (the other two are on the opposite side).
Inside, there was a sliding pin which "locked" the switch in place when pressed (again, the arrows in the illustration depict the "offending" pin). Once it is removed, the switch will only close the intended circuit as long as you keep pressing it.

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50602-switch-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Bench testing: After having assembled everything, a 9v battery was used to test the connections.
Both the icon illumination and the operation of the switch along with the indicator light function as intended (explanatory illustration ensues):

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50610-bench-testing-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Vehicle integration: Remove the lower dash trim (the one with the switch blanks). There are no screws, just grip it hard with your fingers and pop it out. Disconnect the cigarette lighter connections should you need to and remove the switch blank of your choosing.
Along with the cigarette lighter harness, there should be another one with four connectors. The blue one connects to the left seat heater switch, the white one of the same shape to the central door lock switch (for models without power windows), the black one with
a slightly different design to the side mirror heater switch and the white one with the same modified design to the right seat heater switch.
I used the connector intended for the side mirror heater switch for no specific reason.
Pin receptacles #1 and #4 provide 12v when the parking lights are turned on, thus will be used for the icon illumination while pin receptacles #2 and #3 provide 12v when the ignition key cylinder is turned to the "ON" position.
Note that while the polarity of the receptacles for the illumination is unimportant, the polarity of the "ON" circuit must be observed carefully (in my case, #2 was "+" and #3 was "-").
Tuck away the remote (tape it to the black housing connector to protect it from bumps if you want), remember to thread the defroster housing connector through the removed blank space and replace the trim piece (align the clips and just press it lightly).
Connect the switch to the housing connector, push it into the blank and you are done!

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50618-lower-switch-panel-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Result: Everything works as intended, albeit with a reduced range. The icon (interpreted as a sliding garage gate in my case :mrgreen:) illuminates with the parking lights, the pressing of the switch closes the circuit as long as the ignition cylinder switch is in the "ON" position and lights up the indicator light.

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50642-result-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.png)

Teaser for the next write-up:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50650-tease-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
799 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
UPDATE: Everything was working fine, until the decision was made to upgrade the garage door.
Unfortunately, the new rolling-code transmitting remote was powered by a 3V coin battery, so I had to modify the circuitry to accommodate for the lower voltage demand.

After some research on the matter, I decided to use an LM317T chip as a voltage regulator and two resistors to calibrate the desired output voltage:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50658-lm317t-pin-out-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.png)

Boring stuff: The LM317T voltage regulator is able to handle a maximum of 40V input voltage which can be regulated to anything between 1.2V and 37V on the output voltage pin.
The above means that you could use this chip on a car (12V) and power 3V, 6V or 9V remotes, a truck (24V) and power 3V, 6V, 9V or 12V remotes, or even a motorcycle (6V) and power 3V remotes (the input voltage needs to be at least 2-3V above the desired output one).
The selection of the suitable resistors is governed by the following formula: Vout=1.25(1+(R2/R1))
Electronics pundits suggest to use either 220Ohm or 240Ohm resistors for R1 since they "provide good stability" (whatever that means).
So, the formula to calculate an approximate value for R2 is: R2=220((Vout/1.25)-1) [or R2=240((Vout/1.25)-1)].
Resistor combinations for output voltages of common remotes:
3V = 220 and 330 (or 240 and 330, or 240 and 370)
6V = 220 and 820 or 1000
9V = 240 and 1500

For my application, I opted for a 220Ohm 1/2W (5% tolerance) resistor and a similar spec'd 330Ohm one.
Glorious wiring schematic ensues:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50666-schematic-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.png)

The schematic is pretty much self-explanatory. Take extra care to insulate (preferably with heat-shrink tubing) any exposed connections or pins.
Before insulating though, it is a good idea to check with a multi-meter if the output voltage is indeed the desired one:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50674-initial-testing-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.png)

Finished product checks (with OEM defogger switch):

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50682-final-testing-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.png)

Ready to be integrated in the car:

(http://www.rav4world.com/forums/members/albums/37389-mick-hatzo/my-mods-8714-picture50690-ready-install-http-www-rav4world-com-forums-94-4-1-d-i-y-modifications-223449-oem-garage-door-opener-homelink-html.jpg)

Useful links:
DIY: Integrate a 3V (3 volt) garage door opener remote to your vehicle (newbie frien - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
https://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/garage/garage_2.htm
Variable Voltage Power Supply Using The LM317T
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
I just clipped my garage door opener to the sun visor.
Someone can break into you car and get your address from registration, drive to you house and open the garage.
Or simply break your car windows and open your garage. It happened several time in our town.
It is a good idea somehow hide the garage door opener or disable it when the car is off.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
799 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I just clipped my garage door opener to the sun visor.
Too easy and practical! Where is the fun in that?

It is a good idea somehow hide the garage door opener or disable it when the car is off.
That's why I wired it so that it only transmits when the key is in the "ON" position. Moreover, the switch is pretty inconspicuous so I wouldn't worry that much about potential burglars. Unless of course they have read this thread...:mrgreen:
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top