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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been having oil leak from my engine while running for a while now. Yesterday I took off the plastic covers and wiped up all the oil I could see and ran the engine. I checked the oil pump side near the crank pulley and didn’t see any oil coming from there. I Also confirmed the oil pan is not leaking.

It looks like it’s dripping from below the oil filter (not at the oil filter, but below it) while running the car I could watch the oil Begin to trickle down that area. There is oil on the underside of the intake manifold as well, but I’d imagine oil can fly everywhere while driving down the road.

See the attached pics. I had trouble finding videos or other posts where people had the same problem.

Two questions: 1. is there anywhere else oil could be leaking from where it would pool up at this location? 2. If it is the oil cooler, does anyone have a write up on how to replace the seal?

thanks!
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For removing and installing the oil cooler, see pages LU-18 thru LU-20 of the attachment. Page LU-20 speaks of installing a new o-ring and a new gasket. The drawing below is from McGeorgetoyota.com:
152003


Part #15 = Oil Cooler Assembly, OEM part #15710-74050
Part #17 = Cooler Assembly O-Ring, OEM part #90301-58002 (comes with cooler)
Part #18 = Engine Oil Cooler Gasket, OEM part #90201-25007

Triple check the part numbers, please.

Edit: Page LU-17 of the attachment states that #16 gets 58 ft-lbs of torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started getting things apart. Anyone know what size the bolt is holding the cooler? PN #16 in that diagram. I’m gonna go out and buy a socket but would hate to have to make multiple trips. Couldnt find out online
 

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P/N #16 is the oil cooler relief valve assembly, OEM P/N 15695-74010. No guarantees, but signs are that this takes a 30mm socket.

The Rav4.1's four spark plug tubes have large nuts that also use a 30mm socket. The socket may be worth buying.

Some report a 24-inch breaker bar and a lot of torque are needed to free the relief valve.

For the archives, here are three videos that explain replacement of the oil cooler gasket on Toyota circa 1990s 5SFE engines:




(The 5SFE has many similarities to a 3SFE.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate all the help guys. I finally finished up changing the gasket. Drained and refilled the coolant, changed the oil, and reinstalled the oil cooler with the new gasket (the old one was rock hard) #16 was in fact a 30mm bolt, went to northern tool to get a socket.
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It definitely was leaking oil from the cooler, you can see in the image where there was a gap in the gasket. Time will tell if this fixed the leak over all, I’m sure there’s a leak elsewhere on the engine I’ll end up finding. Again, thank you for the help!
 

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Wanted to add a little more color to this thread as it helped me a lot in swapping out the seal today!

Had to remove the exhaust heat shield and the shield behind the header.

Used an 18" breaker bar with a 6" extension on a deep-socket 30mm (loaned from AutoZone for free) to get it free, any more/less than 6" and you'll likely have a difficult time with enough space.

I didn't drain the coolant, just have a couple vice-grips ready to pinch shut the hoses, or better yet shove a wine cork (shaved like a cone) in each to keep from leaking. Throw something under your car to catch any residual drips.

Make sure to clean the mating surface on the block before placing the oil cooler back with the new seal, mine was very cooked on and used a razor blade to scrape off. Took me a good 30min to clean that area and scrape out the old seal from the cooler.

The torque spec for that 30mm bolt is 58 ft-lbs.

With the steps above, you could knock this out in under 2hrs 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just to add that this repair did fix the leak I was having. I have since sold the 98’ though... baby on the way and needed child anchors. Now have a 11’ V6 Limited Rav4 😁
 

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Good article, which I think describes the situation that I have, 97Rav, manual, 2wheel dr-
The question I have is, that no one has mentioned having any difficulty removing and reinstalling
the exhaust manifold-having worked on many older cars in the past I know exhaust systems can
be a real PITA, including broken studs, frozen nuts, etc. As such, I'm either going to do this myself
or pay someone since I work full time in healthcare. Can anyone comment?
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good article, which I think describes the situation that I have, 97Rav, manual, 2wheel dr-
The question I have is, that no one has mentioned having any difficulty removing and reinstalling
the exhaust manifold-having worked on many older cars in the past I know exhaust systems can
be a real PITA, including broken studs, frozen nuts, etc. As such, I'm either going to do this myself
or pay someone since I work full time in healthcare. Can anyone comment?
Thank you.
I only had to remove the heat shield and it’s bolts appeared super rusty, but came off without breaking. The heat shield bolts aren’t like regular exhaust bolt it should come off relatively easily and only needs to be tight when reinstalled.
 

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I only had to remove the heat shield and it’s bolts appeared super rusty, but came off without breaking. The heat shield bolts aren’t like regular exhaust bolt it should come off relatively easily and only needs to be tight when reinstalled.
Thanks for the speedy reply. In all my reading about these engines, one thing I've noticed is that what is accessable on one person's vehicle is not necessarily accessable on another persons. So, if you were able to change this out then there must be some flexibility in the the coolent lines that allow this? Anything further you can tell me will help.
Thanks-
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the speedy reply. In all my reading about these engines, one thing I've noticed is that what is accessable on one person's vehicle is not necessarily accessable on another persons. So, if you were able to change this out then there must be some flexibility in the the coolent lines that allow this? Anything further you can tell me will help.
Thanks-
You do have to remove the coolant lines connected to the cooler to get it off. I’m not going to pretend it’s easy to get to, there are lines in the way, but it can be done. Manufacturing for these vehicles was very consistent and everythjng should be in the same positions as any other Rav4. Use the videos as much as you can
 

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You do have to remove the coolant lines connected to the cooler to get it off. I’m not going to pretend it’s easy to get to, there are lines in the way, but it can be done. Manufacturing for these vehicles was very consistent and everythjng should be in the same positions as any other Rav4. Use the videos as much as you can
Thank you all for the input. As it turns out, due to my work sched I'm goiing to have to farm it out-I really appreciate the knowledge here in this group and it's eagerness to share it. So, until the next problem presents itself, you all take care.
and thanks again!!!!
 
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