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Discussion Starter #1
I have the dealer do the oil every 15k since I bring it in for more annoying work I prefer not to do (coolant and so forth) at 15k intervals.

I go to do my next (post dealer) change myself to find that the dealer had hella torqued the filter can on the last visit. I am estimating something over 60 ft lbs.

I now have a leak past the filter seal (or hopefully not true blowby) when pressurized. I replaced the seal a second time (different brand) thinking I had a bought a bum seal or somehow chipped the seal. still leaking. And i have to torque it over 45 ft lbs just to mitigate a constant pressurized drip.

Any thought if the dealer caused this or if oil can leaks are common/becoming common?

I saw a few other posts to this issue in the forum but the cause seems undetermined.
 

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15K seems like a very long interval for oil changes considering the recommended is 5. The oil filter comes with new o-rings, that should take care of any leaks. Maybe you have a cracked oil filter housing.
 

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Sounds like you are just changing the seal and not the filter by what you mentioned ? The filter maybe damaged and it could be twisted. Try changing the filter to see if it fixes this. Over tightening the filter does weakens the filter from sealing tight. The filter is not as strong as the disposable canister type and can take only so much torque.

And if that does not work then maybe the oil filter housing is damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@DL175 Yes I change the filter too. It would be silly to buy the filter kit and only use the o rings ;)

My fear is as you mentioned. that the housing was damaged when the dealer tightened it. Like i said I had to apply roughly 60 ftl bs to remove the can from the housing.

though even if the thread were damaged (assuming the torque would damage the threads only, I would expect the seal to still do it's job since it is still positioned distal of the threads.

Any Idea if the housing is difficult to replace. i imagine it is just a general gasket job not unlike an oil pan. perhaps easier. ???

Am curious if other have experienced this or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank You @JuneBug. I have double check the seal twice worried that I made the mistake (in my exhaustion) of placing the o ring seal at the final flair of the can instead of the designated groove as indicated in your posted image or that i used a flawed o ring. Indeed I had placed it in the correct location... and when i did the double check i bought a new filter kit and did that part of the job again making double sure i did not screw up the o ring location. And yes, I lubricated the o ring.

Could truly be that I have blowby...shrug. what do you think compression test or replace housing first? haha
 

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I have the dealer do the oil every 15k since I bring it in for more annoying work I prefer not to do (coolant and so forth) at 15k intervals.

I go to do my next (post dealer) change myself to find that the dealer had hella torqued the filter can on the last visit. I am estimating something over 60 ft lbs.

I now have a leak past the filter seal (or hopefully not true blowby) when pressurized. I replaced the seal a second time (different brand) thinking I had a bought a bum seal or somehow chipped the seal. still leaking. And i have to torque it over 45 ft lbs just to mitigate a constant pressurized drip.

Any thought if the dealer caused this or if oil can leaks are common/becoming common?
I've done about 10 changes since the dealer's last job, which was way over tight along the lines of what you mentioned, and it had a slow leak. I think they crank it down just to make darn sure it doesn't leak any oil, but this was sloppy work. When I started doing my own oil, I noticed the extreme gorilla strength they used.

So I've done my own oil changes since then. My last DIY change was a little disturbing as I had to tighten more than the usual 18-ft pounds called for in the book. I'm careful with the O-ring and use a torque wrench because the old spin-on rules don't apply with this setup. Anyway, got a bit of weeping last time and cranked it down to 30-ft pounds to get a seal. Might be the nature of the beast over time. You might consider buying a new filter housing if problem continues--I think they make stainless ones but a new plastic could do it.
 
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A lot of owners have replaced the plastic housing on the I4 with the more durable cast aluminum housing made for the V6. They are identical in every way with the exception of the material used.
 

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15K seems like a very long interval for oil changes considering the recommended is 5. The oil filter comes with new o-rings, that should take care of any leaks. Maybe you have a cracked oil filter housing.
Last time I looked Toyota says 10,000 with their oil (close to the same as Mobil1 Extended) or the use of Mobil1 Extended.
 

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Last time I looked Toyota says 10,000 with their oil (close to the same as Mobil1 Extended) or the use of Mobil1 Extended.
Actually the OP has a 2010 in which the 5k-mile oil change is specified. Toyota changed to 10k around 2012. And even though the engine is essentially the same (the 4cyl), Toyota says you must continue the 5k interval for warranty purposes for the pre-2012 models, even if you switch to synthetic.
 
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As you can see where the oil is leaking from and have determined it is not coming from another location and migrating there, it seems that one of the "O" rings is allowing oil to seep by it. This can be caused by a small bit of grit trapped behind the "O" ring, the "O" ring getting damaged on installation by a burr or ? on the mating surfaces. Make sure the surfaces where you thread the housing into the block is very clean with no dirt or black "bathtub" ring. Use brakeclean to clean any metal area. Replacing the housing with a metal one would eliminate the housing as a problem. You could also go to a hydraulic supply shop and match up an "O" ring for one slightly larger in cross thickness.
 

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That type of O-ring does not seal via torque. As long as it is contained within the housing, it will seal just as well with the lip of the housing 1/8" away from "tight" to specified torque. It is not a face-sealing o-ring, it is a barrel seal... the same kind of o-ring seal that kept water out of my scuba light battery canister to (rated) 400ft (180psi)

If leakage stops by tightening, then the O-ring is not properly sealing and you are effectively getting a "seal" from the face of the cap pressing against the edge of the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Okay took it to the dealer today.

Confirmed. The housing had a micro fissure and caused oil to seep past the O-ring seal... likely caused by the last dealer maintenance over torquing. They are replacing and giving me an "unrecognized" break in the cost. @RAVN4RED

I will ask if they converted me to an aluminum housing. Unfortuntaely, I didn't see that response until after I greenlighted the replacement.

From now on, dealers aren't allowed to change my oil ha. Now that I think about it. it is the same dealer that inflated my tires to 60 psi on an early, in warranty maintenance visit . I should have taken that as a red flag.

happy it isn't blowby. haha. 115k is too young for that.
 

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Thanks for the report-- I've probably got the same thing going on with a possible small crack in the filter housing. It does stop weeping if I torque the heck out of it, but as CB91710 pointed out, it's not supposed to seal that way. I'll take a close look at next oil change and probably get a new one.
 

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What CB91710 said, these types of filters are literally "tight by hand" . I don't do oil changes at the dealerships for many reasons, this is one of them. When I brought my car, not RAV4, it was Corolla for second free oil change at 20k.. they tighten oil filter to the point where I had to use 2ft breaker bar to get it loose.. I guess they wanted me to come back in case if I attempt changing oil myself lol. Which I do :). Lesson learned.. no more free oil changes for me haha. 0W20 Amsoil Signature series and OEM filter and engine should outlive me :D
 

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Thanks JuneBug! I went ahead and ordered the aluminum cap. My plastic one has been slowly getting worse since the dealer shop gorilla-tightened it, and it came home with a slow leak. I'm really careful with the O-ring and cleaning the mating surfaces, so it has to be a crack. Gotta like that price for the superior part you linked.
@ivan70: Yeah, I chuckle when people rave about their "free" dealer services. It is only as valuable as the quality of the shop, and can actually be a negative if they damage stuff or do shoddy work. There are some good shops out there--it really helps to be as knowledgable as possible so they can't abuse you--or the oil filter housing, lol. This forum is outstanding in providing DIY info and the knowledge needed when going to the shop.
 

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I have done all my own work for many years and one of the first things I did was to change to the aluminum filter housing at 7.5K miles changing the oil myself with Toyota 0-20W synthetic oil rather having the dealer change the oil free at 10K miles. To prevent galling on the aluminum I put grease on the canister threads before installing.

Frank 2015 Rav4 XLE AWD with 20113 miles
 

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I actually prefer the plastic housing... it doesn't retain heat like the aluminum housing does, so between the Fumoto drain valve and the plastic housing, my oil changes are glove-free and I don't get burned on the hot oil or parts.... allows me to run the engine for a good 20-30 miles to get the oil nice and hot and get the crap circulated up out of the sump.

But... the only service that I don't do is what I physically can't do, or perhaps something like a brake job when weather doesn't really allow it since I have no shelter to work under (so heat is as much of a problem as rain). I can get away with relatively clean jobs that can be wrapped up in an hour or two (HOA parking lot).
 
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