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2022 RAV4 TRD Off Road - Ruby Red Flare
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Had the same situation here, what our local dealer meant was that the oil & filter would not be replaced "FREE" at 5k miles. I could pay for the O&F change at 5k and 15k miles and the 10k and 20k changes would be free as per the service plan.
I had no problem with 5000 miles/6 months for service maintenance. The dealership changed it along with the required checkup for 5,000 miles. They even emailed me so I wouldn't forget. I just got an email for the upcoming 10,000 mile/1 year service maintenance. I have free oil changes for the life of the RAV4 as well. I think this depends on the dealership where you buy the car.
 

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Better hope you never have a failure of any kind under warranty or they may just refuse to honor the warranty. They may say where is the proof you had the required maintenance?

Scamp
Not worried about it at all. Toyota will deny just about every claim that is warranty from my personal experience. I have gone the rounds with Toyota on 3 occasions, all having to do with paint. And they eventually paid for all 3 claims. Fairly easy to prove with receipts what has and hasn't been done when it comes to maintenance along with other telltale signs. And if I had to, it wouldn't be the first time that I would have to prove the Toyota rep wrong. There isn't anything that I'm afraid to tear apart if I had to. I have had people try and sell me an extended warranty and put the fear into me of what if your transmission fails, what are you going to do. I just told them that I would just fix it myself and they gave up on trying to sell me one. The schematics are easy to find online. If I don't already have the tools, I would dare say I have most of them. Nothing is that difficult if you have the tools, time and patience.

My son took his new Camry in for his first oil change. They gouged one of his wheels and the dealership tried to deny they did it. Said it was curb rash. Clear up towards the center of the wheel with zero damage on the outer edges. Along with the fact that because of the mileage on the car it was obvious nobody else had rotated the tires. They ended up fixing it. It was sloppiness from an impact gun that gouged his wheel. He hasn't gone back since either.

@Makamike -- oh you made me laugh, here is my filter after 1 hour of wrangling with 3 different straps and wrenches - I didn't have a filter wrench specific to the rav4 - though all the other cars I've owned, including toyotas, I've never had a specific wrench for the filter, including the prius.... :), so I felt your pain ;).

View attachment 190149
Guarantee that wouldn't have happened if you had the Toyota filter wrench. Worth the $60 to get one. I bought one for myself and one for my son who is stationed out of state. Aftermarket cap wrenches may appear to fit, but they really don't. I have three or four aftermarket cap wrenches that supposedly fit, but there is a noticeable difference in fit between them and the Toyota wrench.
 

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Just ask them to change the oil at 5k instead of 10k, my dealer said okay then at 10k I just took it to a different dealer and they changed the oil again. I reckon even at the same dealer the tech is just doing the 10k service and they’re not going to leave out the oil change. Anyways, demand and you’ll get it, it’s your car they don’t get to decide when an oil change happens.
First of all do not listen to Toyota on the 10,000 mi oil change at all change your oil at 5000 The oil is the life blood of the engine, go to Napa get the Napa Gold filters they're the best
Mini Toyota engines have to be rebuilt at 180 to 200,000 mi because the dealer is telling them to change oil at 10,000
This whole sham was ridiculous a way to change the oil less during the warranty period because many dealers have lifetime oil change
Been a mechanic for 50 years change your oil rotate your tires every 5,000 use mobile one synthetic or any good oil
 

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Not worried about it at all. Toyota will deny just about every claim that is warranty from my personal experience. I have gone the rounds with Toyota on 3 occasions, all having to do with paint. And they eventually paid for all 3 claims. Fairly easy to prove with receipts what has and hasn't been done when it comes to maintenance along with other telltale signs. And if I had to, it wouldn't be the first time that I would have to prove the Toyota rep wrong. There isn't anything that I'm afraid to tear apart if I had to. I have had people try and sell me an extended warranty and put the fear into me of what if your transmission fails, what are you going to do. I just told them that I would just fix it myself and they gave up on trying to sell me one. The schematics are easy to find online. If I don't already have the tools, I would dare say I have most of them. Nothing is that difficult if you have the tools, time and patience.

My son took his new Camry in for his first oil change. They gouged one of his wheels and the dealership tried to deny they did it. Said it was curb rash. Clear up towards the center of the wheel with zero damage on the outer edges. Along with the fact that because of the mileage on the car it was obvious nobody else had rotated the tires. They ended up fixing it. It was sloppiness from an impact gun that gouged his wheel. He hasn't gone back since either.



Guarantee that wouldn't have happened if you had the Toyota filter wrench. Worth the $60 to get one. I bought one for myself and one for my son who is stationed out of state. Aftermarket cap wrenches may appear to fit, but they really don't. I have three or four aftermarket cap wrenches that supposedly fit, but there is a noticeable difference in fit between them and the Toyota wrench.
$60 for an oil filter wrench is way over priced.. There are plenty of good quality wrenches available for far less then that....
 

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I found out the other day that my dad just got a Rav4.
I purchased the proper wrench from Napa but it wanted to slip too much. I eventually got positioned well enough to hold the wrench in place but it did take some doing.
I think I'll get the Toyota wrench for my dad. I'm sure he will be changing oil himself on the car. I can all but promise he won't wait 10,000 or a year for a free oil change.
I may even get the funnel the screws into the fill hole.

Maybe less of a struggle and not something he will have to find and buy.
 

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First of all do not listen to Toyota on the 10,000 mi oil change at all change your oil at 5000 The oil is the life blood of the engine.
I have been changing the oil and filter every 3K miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Most of the times the oil I drain is clear. It gives me peace of mind and I like changing oil.
 

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$60 for an oil filter wrench is way over priced.. There are plenty of good quality wrenches available for far less then that....
Show me. I learned a long time ago that you get what you pay for with tools. And I have a lot of them. Not just automotive tools, but construction and other tools too. I don't pay anybody to do anything. I will buy the tool(s) if I don't already have them. I have a partial drawer full of filter wrenches. And I will tell you from experience that the Toyota cap wrench fits far better than any aftermarket cap wrench that I have found.
 

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I just purchased a Motivx Tools, MX2320-US 64.3MM 14 flute oil filter wrench. It fits the Toyota filter like a latex glove. It is also short, so there is room to put a wrench on it. It is CNCed, so it looks good, too. It is $29.95, so it is a little expensive.
 

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You guys seem to have had really bad luck with your filters. I did my first oil change and used a plain old filter pliers like below. Yes, it was tight, but it still came off just fine without destroying the filter. After the first oil change, it will be a piece of cake.

Just have to get a good grip on the filter, use a little muscle, and it will come off.

Product Azure Font Line Screenshot
 

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You guys seem to have had really bad luck with your filters. I did my first oil change and used a plain old filter pliers like below. Yes, it was tight, but it still came off just fine without destroying the filter. After the first oil change, it will be a piece of cake.

Just have to get a good grip on the filter, use a little muscle, and it will come off.
How tight did you install the filter after your change?
 

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You guys seem to have had really bad luck with your filters. I did my first oil change and used a plain old filter pliers like below. Yes, it was tight, but it still came off just fine without destroying the filter. After the first oil change, it will be a piece of cake.

Just have to get a good grip on the filter, use a little muscle, and it will come off.

View attachment 190225
I have one of those, however i moved and cant find Sheet,
I May or may not need an oil filter wrench, i had wrist Surgery and unfortunately, my dominant right hand is weaker than my weakest left hand, so although i did get the filter off, & Put a new one on, now im not sure i can gauge how tight it really is, so i am interested in my options of having something on hand to do the job if it comes up....
 

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How tight did you install the filter after your change?
Hand tight. My elbow clicks when it’s tight enough. 😉

I have never used a torque wrench for the oil filter or drain plug. I have a good sense of how tight they should be and it’s not critical like a cylinder head bolt or the linkage bolts on my mountain bike where I use a torque wrench on everything.
 

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Hand tight. My elbow clicks when it’s tight enough. 😉

I have never used a torque wrench for the oil filter or drain plug. I have a good sense of how tight they should be and it’s not critical like a cylinder head bolt or the linkage bolts on my mountain bike where I use a torque wrench on everything.
Just asking since the specification is to tighten 3/4 turn. I figure on my next one I will not tighten so much.
Being new to the car though, didn't know if pressure was high enough that installing a filter the same as 40 years ago was suitable.
I was thinking of tightening somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more. I'm sure I get abut 1/4 turn by hand though.

Yup, those carbon bits on a bike like 5nm! Not much more or less. :D
 

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Just asking since the specification is to tighten 3/4 turn. I figure on my next one I will not tighten so much.
Being new to the car though, didn't know if pressure was high enough that installing a filter the same as 40 years ago was suitable.
I was thinking of tightening somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more. I'm sure I get abut 1/4 turn by hand though.

Yup, those carbon bits on a bike like 5nm! Not much more or less. :D
I’d say I do about 3/4 turn.

For the drain plug I replace the washer every time with a Toyota washer and tighten just until you can feel the washer start to squish then it’s done.
 

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That is the tool that busts those plastic cartridges. It puts all of the pressure on those ears to remove the filter. The torque spec is exactly when the threads bottom out, which is distinct to me. I checked it with a torque wrench that had been recently calibrated. So there is no over torquing that is causing the filter housing to be on too tight when it comes to removal. If you do put it on too tight you will bust it. A proper cap wrench disperses the torque across the fluted portion of the housing instead of putting all of the pressure on those ears. And if it only works on certain model years and not the newer RAV4's the fluted portion of that wrench isn't right. The plastic fluted portion on the cartridge filter is the same size as the metal oil filter. There is no reason to engage the ears on the plastic housing if the fluted portion fits properly. You will never bust one of those plastic cartridges using the Toyota filter cap wrench.

How tight did you install the filter after your change?
I do it by feel and it is probably really close to the 3/4 revolution after the filter makes contact. I have never had one that was difficult to remove that I had installed previously. I however can't remove them by hand.

Several examples as to why I change my own oil.
 

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I’d say I do about 3/4 turn.

For the drain plug I replace the washer every time with a Toyota washer and tighten just until you can feel the washer start to squish then it’s done.
That is the tool that busts those plastic cartridges. It puts all of the pressure on those ears to remove the filter. The torque spec is exactly when the threads bottom out, which is distinct to me. I checked it with a torque wrench that had been recently calibrated. So there is no over torquing that is causing the filter housing to be on too tight when it comes to removal. If you do put it on too tight you will bust it. A proper cap wrench disperses the torque across the fluted portion of the housing instead of putting all of the pressure on those ears. And if it only works on certain model years and not the newer RAV4's the fluted portion of that wrench isn't right. The plastic fluted portion on the cartridge filter is the same size as the metal oil filter. There is no reason to engage the ears on the plastic housing if the fluted portion fits properly. You will never bust one of those plastic cartridges using the Toyota filter cap wrench.


I do it by feel and it is probably really close to the 3/4 revolution after the filter makes contact. I have never had one that was difficult to remove that I had installed previously. I however can't remove them by hand.

Several examples as to why I change my own oil.
Boy I don't know about that.
I used the cap wrench and had to firmly hold it on the filter to get it to 3/4 of a turn. Anything after 1/2-ish of a turn got pretty tight. I was surprised how tough it was to get it to that spec even with the tool. I do not believe I'd achieve the spec by hand.
I've done many oil changes in my time, none ever tightened like this.
 
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