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Discussion Starter #1
What is causing the oil to pass through the air filter tubes from the valve cover to the throttle body. There is very little, but still seems to be an issue. Forgive me for not searching, but I am ripping this thing apart to get it fixed up. Hoping y'all can tell me while I am out there replacing the timing belt.

My plugs were perfect, no oil on plugs or on the plug wires. So some oil getting into valve cover and then getting sucked into the TB though from the looks of it. Thanks.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Am I going to need to rip apart the entire throttle body?
I guess I am at a point to listening to the seafoam peeps. But I sure don't wanna. Not to mention that is just a bandaid fix. Need to fix it right... or buy a new car. Hoping not to have to do the latter.
Thanks again.
 

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This is just the oily blowby that all engines produce. Years (eons) ago it just got vented to the atmosphere via a "road draft" tube. To avoid that pollution it's now vented to the engine's air intake via the hoses you removed. As miles accumulate the volume may increase but it is completely normal.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
This is just the oily blowby that all engines produce. Years (eons) ago it just got vented to the atmosphere via a "road draft" tube. To avoid that pollution it's now vented to the engine's air intake via the hoses you removed. As miles accumulate the volume may increase but it is completely normal.
You're awesome. Thanks.
 

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If getting excessive, it's a sign that the engine is getting loose internally (including "blow-by") and will need a routine rebuilt (rings, valve job, bearings, etc.) soon. Such rebuilds are fun for me! :wink

If I were you I'd replace the PCV valve, or at least clean it, soon to see if that makes a difference. RockAuto dot com for the part.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If getting excessive, it's a sign that the engine is getting loose internally (including "blow-by") and will need a routine rebuilt (rings, valve job, bearings, etc.) soon. Such rebuilds are fun for me! :wink

If I were you I'd replace the PCV valve, or at least clean it, soon to see if that makes a difference. RockAuto dot com for the part.
Thanks. I cleaned the PCV and noticed it is sticking in the open position. Already bought another, but the neck to put the hose on was pointing diagonal up. So I have to grab a new piece of hose. And thanks for reminding me. I was just getting on my bicycle to run down to autozone for a harmonic balancer puller. Now I remember to get a piece of hose too. :):)

As for the rebuild... I am sure it is getting to that point. 278k. Hoping to make it last till I can get a Model 3. Cause that rebuild crap ain't fun at all to me. lol.
 

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If getting excessive, it's a sign that the engine is getting loose internally (including "blow-by") and will need a routine rebuilt (rings, valve job, bearings, etc.) soon. Such rebuilds are fun for me!
You want a job rebuilding oil burning 2.4s? I sure many members would rather pay you than Toyota.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If getting excessive, it's a sign that the engine is getting loose internally (including "blow-by") and will need a routine rebuilt (rings, valve job, bearings, etc.) soon. Such rebuilds are fun for me! :wink

If I were you I'd replace the PCV valve, or at least clean it, soon to see if that makes a difference. RockAuto dot com for the part.
You want a job rebuilding oil burning 2.4s? I sure many members would rather pay you than Toyota.
Quoting both of ya'll so you get the notification instead of me starting a new thread. I need some verification if ya don't mind before I put this thing back together. It's common sense stuff... but need to be sure. A lot of drawn out discussions on this stuff around here and my body hurts from working on the Rav all day. Ready for some sleep.

I have the timing belt on along with the lower cover and harmonic balancer. then stopped.

1. Am I correct in assuming that TDC for the cam pulley means I should be TDC on the on the crank? I put the belt back on and my belt/tooth marks are good. Thing is i am one tooth (15°) out. I am beginning to think that this might be why I have been having so many power issues. I never checked TDCs last time. I jut lined up the marks I made.

2. I have a slight bit of slack up top and right side. But doesn't feel like there is enough slack for an extra tooth. I am good and tight on the tensioner side. Do I need to be perfect all the way around?

Either one of yall crank up an engine with one of the mounts off? I'd hate to put it all back together, only to have to rip it back apart. Like I did the bottom side three times tonight.

As I typed that last word... i just realized i might be able to back up the cam pulley, take the slack out... and get my 15°. Then loosen and tighten the tensioner down. hmmm. K. going to do that in the morning. If i am still out of whack... which i should be.....

Oh well. If one of yall could help me with 1, 2, & 3... I will figure out the last.

Thanks again guys. Pm me your paypals. I'll send ya twenty bucks to pay for the 12pk I'd give my neighbor if he knew anything about cars.
 

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There's a little hole in the top pulley, on a spoke. You insert a short/tiny flat screw driver in it, and as you hand-turn the engine you'll feel the screwdriver go into a little divot when the top end is at TDC. Compare to the crank. Very easy to be off by a belt-notch or two. And, of course, make sure you only turn the engine in the correct direction!

Rebuilds -- I'm likely far too expensive and too slow for others. :frown
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All done. Running like a champ. I am now a happy boy. Been running that thing 15° out for the last 150k or so miles. But Not Any MORE!:)!:)!
 
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