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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I workt on my car and after i put my oilsensor back in and started the car the oil came out on the side of the engine :frown

After some inspection i have seen that there was a rip in the engine right where the oilsensor goes in so if you are in front of the car its on your rightside .

Can anyone advise me please what to do its urgent caus its my daily drive :crying
 

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Sounds like you have driven the sensor in too far (its a tapered thread) and cracked the cylinder head :(. I would remove the sensor, clean the crack and affected area 100% with carburetor cleaner and compressed air, and wick some high strength loctite into the crack, even using compressed air to help it in, with a cotton swab inside the hole to soak up excess and prevent it getting down the gallery. coat the threads with a little more loctite, and screw that sensor back in. if its only a short crack it should hold for a long time, but if its a real big one, you make have to patch over the outside too with some instant metal putty or something, either way this is a bodge job, a new cylinder head would be the ideal way to fix it, but you don't want to go there I can imagine ;)

Just keep in mind that even the best adhesives do not like oily surfaces, and getting metal chips inside that oil gallery is bad news, so cutting back and re-tapping the sensor hole is out of the question unless you want to take the head off and strip it down before hand.
 

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oh, and whatever sealant you use, give it lots of time to cure, more than the tube says to!, or the heat and oil will break it down and push it out again. also make sure its rated for high temps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like you have driven the sensor in too far (its a tapered thread) and cracked the cylinder head :(. I would remove the sensor, clean the crack and affected area 100% with carburetor cleaner and compressed air, and wick some high strength loctite into the crack, even using compressed air to help it in, with a cotton swab inside the hole to soak up excess and prevent it getting down the gallery. coat the threads with a little more loctite, and screw that sensor back in. if its only a short crack it should hold for a long time, but if its a real big one, you make have to patch over the outside too with some instant metal putty or something, either way this is a bodge job, a new cylinder head would be the ideal way to fix it, but you don't want to go there I can imagine ;)

Just keep in mind that even the best adhesives do not like oily surfaces, and getting metal chips inside that oil gallery is bad news, so cutting back and re-tapping the sensor hole is out of the question unless you want to take the head off and strip it down before hand.
Thanks for your reply .

its a crack from arond 150mm so 1cm and a halve when i started the car the oil squirted out like a vain dat was rupjered.

So i orderd some LOCTITE HYSOL 3450 its also for fixing aluminium i will trie that.

I already put de sensor back in with lots of Loctite red high strenght.

I could see some loctite coming out of the crack so if i put the loctite Hysol 3450 also on the crack i hoop it will hold.

Because i just have the car and its my daily and my wife isn't happy with the misstake i made :mad:

Sorry for my english butt i am from Belgium
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
crack in alumnium head wear oilpressure sensor sits

Today AT 13,30 u i used LOCTITE HYSOL 3450 to repair the crack.

Its a filthy - Dirthy job .

I first made sure everything was very clean and sanded .

I have after sanding all blown off with the compressor.

I'm have washed everything with brake cleaner and again blown off with Compressor.

Then again degreased with amoniac , and blown off with the compressor in order to be sure its clean as hell.

Then i started with the Loctite Hysol 3450 i first put in the sensor with the loctite hysol 3450 and then dit fill the 3 cracks .

After that i made a litle aluminium piece in an oval shape to put over the cracks with alot of loctite Hysol 3450 this to make sure it would be inclosed.

I used the entire tube 25ml .

Then i put put a hairdryer on the spot and left it there for a few ours.

So tomorrow at 13,30u the big day for the test hoop it dit help :wink

I wil let you guys now if it workt or not.
 

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Good stuff!, sounds like your on the ball with it!. the cover plate is a great idea, if it was not in such a nasty spot you could have even drilled and tapped some M4 screw holes and bolted the cover plate on. but that would take some time to get right (proper drill stops etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good stuff!, sounds like your on the ball with it!. the cover plate is a great idea, if it was not in such a nasty spot you could have even drilled and tapped some M4 screw holes and bolted the cover plate on. but that would take some time to get right (proper drill stops etc)

It did not work :crying

the oil is still squirting out now i had contact with a toyota garage and the said its gonna be an other valve head .

Could i do this myself if i found a second hand valve head ?
 

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Can you post a picture of the damage?. the hard part is now you have loctite in part of the crack, so other repair attempts will be even harder since different products do not adhere to one another.

Changing a cylinder head on one of these is a bit fiddly, I have not tried it in the car but I have on a bare engine. you need a good set of tools and a GOOD torque wrench for reinstalling the head bolts.
If you do get a used head, make sure its been surfaced, alloy heads often spring out of shape when removed and do not reseal properly when bolted back down. while your at it I would also get the valve stem seals done, and re-shim the cams, so its essentially a new head then.

Getting the timing belt and intake off are the hardest bits IMO, its tight in there.

you will need a head gasket kit with the head, along with a new timing belt and water pump since you will be in there anyway (unless the current one is fairly new, its cheap insurance)

A few of us here have done cylinder heads and engine rebuilds before, so don't be afraid to start a new thread if you decide to DIY it, we will help.

And if you go all the way with new seals, hoses, gaskets, belts, etc, you will have one happy engine. I imagine it runs just fine now and has good compression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you post a picture of the damage?. the hard part is now you have loctite in part of the crack, so other repair attempts will be even harder since different products do not adhere to one another.

Changing a cylinder head on one of these is a bit fiddly, I have not tried it in the car but I have on a bare engine. you need a good set of tools and a GOOD torque wrench for reinstalling the head bolts.
If you do get a used head, make sure its been surfaced, alloy heads often spring out of shape when removed and do not reseal properly when bolted back down. while your at it I would also get the valve stem seals done, and re-shim the cams, so its essentially a new head then.

Getting the timing belt and intake off are the hardest bits IMO, its tight in there.

you will need a head gasket kit with the head, along with a new timing belt and water pump since you will be in there anyway (unless the current one is fairly new, its cheap insurance)

A few of us here have done cylinder heads and engine rebuilds before, so don't be afraid to start a new thread if you decide to DIY it, we will help.

And if you go all the way with new seals, hoses, gaskets, belts, etc, you will have one happy engine. I imagine it runs just fine now and has good compression?
Thanks very much for helping me .

And its indeed the cylinder head i have to change .

I had just done all the belt waterpump oils and everthing this is really :frown

I turnt like a litle nice sowingmachine .

Now i found a secondhand cylinder head for 508,66 USD or 450 euro's shippement included .

Yes i have to let everything been shipt over over here because i live in the woods with the nearest shop for parts over 200 kilometers away .
 

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if you are really careful, you could cut back the damaged edge with a hacksaw and tap some new threads in further back in the hole, but you will need to make absolutely sure that no swarf goes down that oil passege. stuff a foam earplug or somthing down it first, and use a wood screw to extract it after (like a corkscrew in a wine cork)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today a welder has come for my car and said it would probably be fixt by tomorow.

But he had to see if it was just aluminium or aluminium-magnesium i think its just aluminium right ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Today I got my car back.

It was made by a welder I am very happy now I can ride again.

It has cost me 321.88 dollars 283.00 euros.

But now I have another problem I used the C-DIFLOCK button to test the car in 4WD.

Now If I push the button back in the light of the diflock goes on the dashboard goes off but the beeper keeps going ?
 

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Looks like you have just dropped the oil pressure sensor altogether? a bit of a risk, but it is rare you ever actually have that light come on (punctured sump, neglect)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks like you have just dropped the oil pressure sensor altogether? a bit of a risk, but it is rare you ever actually have that light come on (punctured sump, neglect)
Yes thats one of the reasons i left the sensor behind in consultation with the welder. As i said i always and i mean always check my car completly every 3 days as if you would check an airplane 0:)
 
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